Ender

Well I started on my rebuild today...with my heart in my mouth... Unplugged the ecu, took out tail shaft, unbolted it all from the intercooler etc etc, Tomorrow hopefully it will be out. Then comes the tedious hard part, The rebuild etc... Anyway, will keep you informed as to how it is all going. From all the options I have looked at I have decided to build an RB2.2det. Hopefully will take 6 months or so. Cheers, Russ

I would suggest if you are happy with your car then leave it as it is...if you are not then you need to decide how you drive...do you drive hard..not so hard?? What other suspension mods do you have or are you prepared to do... Give me a call if you want..pm me and I'll let you know my number, I can probably help you to decide. Talk to other people who have and those who have not and see what they have to say...read these forums...heaps of threads with people who have problems with hicas..one thing is for sure no hicas is no worse. Cheers, Russ

Rabz3174: who does third party for your line...everyone I called wouldn't do third party...I figure my car is mostly illegal anyway...if I have a big shunt they aren't going to pay out if they look at the car so why have full comp....haven't had a shunt ever and saved enough to pay for new car by not having full comp. Anyway..who does third party and how much?? Cheers Russ

Only because it masks inherent problems, like chronic understeer...once you set it up and have the hicas removed it is much faster around the track... Also much less weight and less to go wrong..I know its small differences but it all adds up. The car feels much more direct and respnsive to throttle steer without hicas. Anyway, each to their own...Just make sure you drive both before you finally make up your mind. Cheers, Russ

So I dont need to change the wiring loom in my car or the ecu?? Is this only if I get the head of an rb25de from a r32gtst... (my cars compliance plate says rb25de...) I will dosome pricing.... I guess I can also sell my rb20det which I guess would go for 900 or so as it is running, 100000kms. which will offset the price considerably given rb30's are quite cheap... Ok... I just need the clarification on the wiring and ecu stuff and if I can keep my stuff as is then I guess I would be stupid not to do the rb30 option huh. Thanks, Russ

Hmmm...I see... After thinking about it I think It's simpler to build a 2.4 or 2.2 and keep the wiring harness and ecu I have...I also think I should be able to get the power I want easy enough....I know I'llalways want more but hey...Maybe I'm paranoid about running over budget plus I know nothing about wiring. With a 2.2 can I use 4agze pistons and a standard rb20 crank or should I get better pistons than this? Or...2.4 rb26 crank with 4agze pistons....I know the block needs more work to fit rb26 crank.... Has anyone got one of these engines in their car?? I would like to know what characteristics it has... Thanks for all your help....I have been reading back through some of the SDU archives....couldnt find anyone who had a 2.2 or 2.4 though... Cheers, Russ

Hey, I used to work on levanswell rd...Doh...could've left the car there to get modded while I was at work... Russ

Brad, Sincerest condolences mate, to you and all your family, thanks for sharing.. Russ

Alright..... Is the following correct? I can use NA Rb30 bottom end rb30et crank and rods RB26 pistons rb25det or de head (do the exhaust and inlet manifold bolt patterns for both these match??) and if I get the rb25de head off an r32 then the loom and ecu will fit in my r32 easily.... Or I can use an RB26 head if I have the cash... I understand there is machining of the block etc and I would get it all xrayed and freshened up...but is this the general idea?? Thankyou, Russ

$200...

Well thats lower than mine by a tiny bit....I just need them rolled like 2mm or so....I might give it a go...only on the back...I was going to get them done properly...$600 so if the rolling doesnt work then I'll go ahead with the proper job... Thanks... Russ

Do you know what sort of torque the rb30 with rb25de head would have, just ball park? I imagine it would be light years above the rb20det... Is there much diff between 25det head or de head? Is there much weight diff between rb30 and rb20...I gather they are the same block..? I gather I would need a different loom etc too, Just thinking that it may work out more power for your money with the rb30 even if you have to swap a loom etc...Would you have to run an aftermarket computer...I gather you would.... one thing I liked about the 32 was that you could just program the ecu ...well for what I want anyway. Sorry for all the questions, Its just hard to find this info sometimes, If it is all in different threads please tell me, I have done some searches and found some but not alll the info. Your time is appreciated

Dont put that stop leak shit in your car man...get it fixed properly... Russ

Most of the michelin tyres are good cause they grip well but they also last a bit longer than most of the other tyres I have tried.... The website you found was probably... www.tirerack.com Cheers, Russ

I am in melb too and can pay direct to account before you post it....$150

I am not fussed how much max power it makes...I am interested in a car I can really drive hard out of corners etc, as much good mid range as I can get...I know its only a 2.2 so this is more difficult but... How much more $$ would it be to do a rb30 with 26 heads etc than what I am proposing...How have you found parts and info about this hybrid, are they easy enough or do you have to do a fair amount of dicking around to get it to work?? Thanks for the info...very much appreciated... Russ

haven't seen the r31 ones before but they are very easy to make, Have to have a look and a measure...thats all. Is it hydraulic like the r32?? I also took out the lines and capped the pump up the front....It never shows as an error etc and the fluid just circulates around like normal.... cheers, russ

It just makes the car more predictable...along with dialling out most of the dreadful understeer the standard skyline was born with. I assume it would make it easier to control drift due to the increased predictability etc, Much more direct too. Cheers, Russ

Surely they make a variety of sizes?? If not then yeah I understand.... Thanks, Russ

For $1000 bucks I'm in too, where do I sign up.... Cheers, Russ

Screw the diagnostics...Remove the hicas altogether...I promise you the cars handling will astound you without it...If you are intereseted I can supply a rear replacement bar out of chromoly for a very reasonable price...You can have a look at my car at some stage if you like. One of the best things you could do for your handling. Cheers, Russ

Al....do you have your car lowered at all. I have gtst r32 with 255's on the rear they rub just on the edge of the lip... Maybe I just have the car a touch too low...its not really low though.... Russ

Probably getting a bit carried away with the revs...sorry....in fact I dont even know why I said that...must be after the night shifts... What I am really after is an engine with a nice fat torque curve. An RB30 with RB26 heads would suit me perfectly but I dont want to have to engineer or replace looms and computers etc... I do anticipate forged pistons...maybe wiseco...forged rods...a bit of light head work...some NA cams or better if I can afford it when I get to there, lightened flywheel...new clutch... I think this should make a strong engine....Are there any particular ways I can get my fat torque curve, I understand turbo choice makes a big difference...but is there anything else I can do in the actual build?? Thanks for the input...much appreciated... Russ What I am really after is a

I already have one of these in my car...I want a special, good, one of a kind 10000rpm beast..... Cheers, Russ

I anticipate I will send the block and head away to be machined... My brother used to work for 00 motorsport and now for Modena so I have access to a bit of knowledge but would like to do the build myself... Cheers, Russ