C4a0s

wow.... thanks for all the info guys... (OO)SKYLINE(OO) : where did u get that pic? it looks great...

meeting at Vroom bar & bistro? sounds fun.. can anyone attend or is it only for members who donated?

thats good to know... but I have also seen a lot of parts like intercooler pipings made in china and they are rough as hell, porous, uneven thickness and have tons of burr. kits supposedly meant for a certain car.. are totally way off and dont fit well.

can i ask how much was the V spec II ?

I've been using Splitfire coils on my SR20DET and they work great...more stable and strong spark. gotta be careful when dealing with electrical stuff... get quality products and not cheap knock offs esp china made ones.. =)

on second thoughts...it could have been titanium coating. =) curiosity got the better of me so I asked a few japanese tuners and they agree that the RB's oil return from cylinder head is not as ideal but their recommendation is to use the tomei oil orifice mod and it shd work fine. anyone tried it? http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e114_RB_oillube.html "The Orifice controls the amount of oil flow that is delivered to the head to lubricate the parts in the cylinder head and to cool down the engine assembly. However the stock oil-gallery orifice has a hole that is too large which allows too much oil to be delivered to the cylinder head which will cause the problems as listed below. (1) Too much blow-by Gas, (2) Blowing engine oil, (3) Leaking oil through the valve guides, (4) Insufficient oil delivery to the crank journal, (5) Allows air pockets into the system from when the oil pan is under horizontal G-Forces. The TOMEI oil gallery orifice was designed from the experience and data we had obtained from the development of our N1 endurance and drag racing engines. By restricting the diameter of the orifice to φ1.5mm (Normal is φ2.0mm) we succeeded in securing enough lubrication to the camshaft and valve while maintaining the correct amount of oil in the oil pan which resolved the common problems. (For added Blow by prevention, we recommend using the TOMEI 3D Profile pistons.)"

I can understand the argument on how thicker rings would seal better...and frankly this blowby issue is definitely not something we can solve by pinpointing it to just one single issue.. but did u consider that the reason why these companies have developed thinner rings is because they have developed better metallurgy processes? or used better materials for their top rings etc so as to overcome the radial forces etc? personal experience...I used tomei Titanium top rings with their 87mm pistons and conrods for my SR20DET rebuild...didnt measure the thickness though... but till the day I sold the car... I didnt have alarming amounts of blowby despite the engine being tuned for 500NM of torque..(disclaimer: the SR might not have a similar oiling issue...)

I agree with GTScotT... Blow-by is the gas that enters an engine’s crankcase during a normal combustion event or compression stroke. It happens because the seal around the cylinder is not perfect which could highly likely be caused by mixing up the top and second rings. Poor drainage would not lead to portions of the crankcase having super low pressure so as to draw air in then out as blow-by.

do u know what the first box, 4S means?

Model code BGKBRTFR34EDAAAN-- Model series R34 Production 9906 Color KR34 Engine RB25DE Hope this helps

how do u make it turn to TV mode when u shift to reverse?

the 60 behind is for hot temps which would be preferred if u push the car harder and got higher temps. but for daily, it might be a little wee bit too thick?

yeah so according to the ADR..even if they wanna fine u for something ....there has to be proof rite? so if EPA tests prove that its below 90db..then u're ok...rite? the cops arent judge and executioner wat!

but after installing an aftermarket exhaust, can we get it tested so that we can show the cops thats it has been tested to be below 90db?

good to know that there are nice people around hate hit and run assholes...

my mechanic got it from the local HKS distributor... price-wise...its pretty decent. IMO shouldnt scrimp and save on engine oil.

i have been using HKS' super turbo racing for my SR20DET and engine temps tend to be slightly lower even on sprints..

similar to the clarion adapter mod i'm guessing... did u add anything to the video in? reverse camera?

engine bay looks almost brand new... the japanese sure know how to take care of their cars..

djvoodoo: mind if i ask how much u paid for it? damn...it looks nice!! anymore pics? once u get it...could u try the TV/navigation thing and update us? am curious how the switching works without the TV button.

thanks for the pic alex182 the "poke" look, looks so wrong and possibly dangerous. mad082: I think its not just stiff springs that causes it. I believe the phenomenon is bump steer...and it could also be due to the insufficient suspension travel that would cause the car to bounce. I had the Tein superdrift in my 180sx with hardness setting to slight more than half. I have also tried with the max hardness setting... high speed sprints (~220km/h) and corners (~90km/h) were fantastic. car was really planted to the ground and traction was amazing...but of course proper camber and toe in are required as well... Tein Superdrift spring rates are 10kg front and 12kg rear if i rem correctly.

is it this?

which year is ur BNR34? very neat and clean set up u have there btw how do u switch to TV/video input if u dont have the tv button? any chance u got the part number? been checking thru nissan fast but I cant confirm anything

nice... so it comes with the RCA cables or the video in cable?