calebharry

Noted, however I have this turbo available and would rather not spend another 3k buying one if this one can be made to work, even if I have to change the turbine housing. I'm just new to rbs and needed reassurance that pistons aren't going to get sent into orbit with 400whp. Now I know that number is achievable on stock internals, I can work my way up to that while spending as least money as possible. I never said not spend money at all, but why spend money if you don't have to. I now know the limits of the engine and I can work around that, I just need some people to pipe in with some detailed info on ARs and an understanding of turbo flows, to try predict how this 0.58 may perform on an RB20

I'm rebuilding the motor because it came out of a C33 laurel that was a factory diesel and was transplanted circa 2006. I couldn't get any information on how many kms were on the engine nor if it had been rebuilt since then. With the amount of pressure leaking through the crank casing when turning over, the fact the car was blowing smoke, and they were pushing 23psi through it on a 'factory or chipped' ECU - it probably needs a rebuild. Have you never rebuilt a motor before and/or not see the point in it? Rings wear out, bearings wear out, head gaskets fail, etc etc. Rebuilding the motor using it's factory components just get it to as close to new as possible and give it the best chances of lasting a long time. While there, upgrading a couple little things like bearings and head studs help hold the thing together under high boost pressures and high rpms. It's silly not to do it really. Also I'm only going to be running 98, I live in NZ and E85 is just too hard to get ahold of here. It's a street car, I don't want to be filling it up from barrels. The turbo choice is random. I got it for my twincharged 4age build, it is slightly too large for a turbo-only 4age (1600cc) but with the .58 rear housing it will be useable. With an extra 400cc and better exhaust flow from 6 cyl it will only spool quicker.. really just hoping it will work, it's got a $2850 RRP over here and I was lucky to score it for $1600 in barely used condition

Well that's not what I'm after then. It's a street car I want it to be as quick as reasonably possible without being a lag monster or costing a shit load to build. I don't care about dropping the total power goal if it means I come on boost faster. Hoping old mate above your comment gets back to me regarding the AR of my PT5858

It came off an SR20 and the guy claimed he "couldn't get the numbers he was looking for". I could ask him specifically in which way shape and form but he was quite vague. I live in NZ and precision doesn't have a big following over here however I am a big fan and seen it pop up for nearly half the RRP and couldn't help myself. To my understanding, in basic form, a larger rear housing/higher AR allows for more flow and power up top at the trade of a slower spool. A smaller rear housing/lower AR allows for a quicker spool but can run out of puff or 'choke' the motor higher up in the rpms?? Assuming it flows plenty enough to fill a 2L, and you're getting 20psi at 4k with a AR.73, would I not be able to reach a similar psi lower in the rpms with the lower AR?

Building a factory 20DET longblock and want to know a couple specific things before I start. Firstly, I've read that 260kw/350hp is the recommended safe daily limit for a bone stock 20DET, and that 330kw/450hp has been reached numerous times but the longevity of the motor is likely compromised at that power. Is it safe to assume that 300kw/400hp is achievable and safe enough on a well and freshly rebuilt factory internal 20DET? Or is this where I should start looking at internal upgrades? I plan to have the block sonic tested, honed, cleaned, lap the valves if needed and rebuild with a good set of rings gapped correctly with ARP studs and ACL race bearings in as many places as I can. I have not looked into piston, rod, cam or crank upgrades yet, however which of those should I upgrade first if 300kw is likely to send the motor to orbit? Next question set, has anyone ran a Precision PT5858 GEN1 on a 20DET before? If so, which power levels did you see at which rpms and which psi did it take to get there? Info from turbos of a similar size and performance would also be handy. I plan to use my PT5858 for this, its an AR.58 T4 rear housing with a ball bearing core, I can get more details on the compressor housing when I get home. I don't plan to change turbos as I got this for a very good price after doing a couple dyno runs and not suiting the application. Precision website says this one is rated for 620hp depending on application, I'm hoping on a 2L it can get me up to 300kw/400hp without spinning to it's limits. Any other info, advice, tips or tricks etc would be super appreciated. This is my first RB build so excuse any amateur thoughts lmao

Does anybody know where Warpspeed has gone, or how to contact him?? If you don't know who i mean, im talking about the only guy who knows twincharging in and out. Everyone else has bullsh*t replies e.g: turbos are better, waste of time etc. If anyone else is just as knowledgeable and willing to listen to me talk sh*t for a while about my setup, then please let me know. But i will be asking questions till your fingers are sore. YES. Ive already read most twincharging posts. Thanks guys, Caleb.

Hey, do you still have these wheels for sale? Im EXTREMELY interested in buying them but not for like 2 years or so... Sorry for the long wait but i cant find any more of these anywhere else... Im gonna be getting a supra and these would be perfect for her So if you could hold on for like 2 years i would be more than happy to buy these then...