Rudager

I've done many Tamworth - Sydney trips About a week ago i drove it from Port Macqurie down to Tamworth at about 11pm, i wouldn't do that if i didn't trust it, no mobile reception 90% of the way and i didn't see one car until i got to the New England Highway.

Not to mention the LHD - RHD conversion issue....

Buy the idler and tensioner bearings from Bearing Industries (search for NSK bearings will find their details) to get cheap bearings. Then goto repco or something and get a non-genuine VL waterpump. Should cost less than whatever the mechanic will want to put on there and work just as well.

Any suggestions then, i'm in the market for a front bar when my tax refund clears

i used to get very erratic idle change with it constantly going up then down up then down every 15 seconds or so and i cleaned the AFM and AAC valve and it only does it now when the temp starts rising and the clutch fan kicks in.

i hole doesnt fit on a RB20DET i think, i just put one on my S1 R33 GTS-T with a RB25DET and went on perfect. $97 for a Silverline water pump for a RB30E at Repco.

The CAS is keyed to the exhaust cam so it only goes on one way, when you try and move the CAS it's attached to the exhaust cam which is in turn connected to the intake cam via the cam belt and the crank also from the cam belt, not exactly easy to move it. And even if you can it wont do shit because all the gears will move along a like they would if the engine was running. Pretty sure the only way to advance the timing is electronically. Best way to understand would be rip the CAS off for 10 seconds and you'll understand, cause i suck at explanation.

Just had a water pump failure on the R33, replaced it all and get my radiator back from the shop tomorrow with a new 32mm core (supposedly nearly 2x the size of standard, yay) and just wondering how much coolant/distilled water i should stock up on before i get stuck with it half full. Thanks.

As per http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=126074&hl= i'm now in great need of a radiator and fan to suit a S1 R33 GTS-T. Please be gentle people, i'm not really made of money right now

Well well well, been an interesting night. Took the car out for a spin, figured it was nice and quiet so i'd give it some stick and see if i could figure out how bad this problem is. So it gets to about 6000RPM, and BAM, i go shit that's not good, but the engine smoothed right out after that. Made a beeline for home (only about 300m) and popped the bonnet and then i got a nice surprise. The fan has ripped itself off the block and embedded itself in the radiator, coolant everywhere, steam everywhere and i'm not very happy right now Not quite sure what happened, becasue it was only 2 days ago i checked to make sure the clutch on the fan was working fine, made sure it could move both ways easily when stationary, so f**k it i dont know. But like i said, as soon as it happened it went smooth as, so go figure.

a set of 4 Z32 rims, 16"x6.5" maybe? some Goodyear 225 50 16's (going on memory right now, will get specifics tomorrow) 1 has a crack in it, nothing major, 2 tyres have tread, maybe 60%? and the other two are unroadworthy Located in Tamworth NSW, but maybe able to organise freight to Sydney, Brisband or Newcastle for not much. Will get some piccies up tomorrow, but be good for a spare set of drift rims or maybe one of you S13 guys doing a 5 stuf conversion. Lets say $250? Also have about 85% of a redtop SR20DET sitting around if anyone wants something.

Had a similar problem not as sevre, cleaning the AFM fixed it up for me

I got sometihng like that on my SSQV, figured it was jsut a reducer since the "nipple" thing on one side is larger than the other.

Not yet, that was my next step actually

Yeah i'll grab one

OK. Changed, Fuel Filter and Spark Plugs and fluids. Cleaned the AFM Checked the coil packs again, while idling just pulled off the connector for one at a time and each time the idle noticably changed. The other thing is it happens on throttle and off, as in it's still rough when the revs are dropping after being rough getting there.

Raises hand, i'll take one whenever they're ready.

So coming home and the "Check Engine" light start falshing at me, well it falshes while doing a constant speed, when decelerating where there is no throttle and when accelerating it stays on constant Some Details '93 S1 R33 GTS-T 5sp manual with 167,500k's I've been playing around with it the last couple of days trying to figure out with it's running rough, cleaned AFM, checked coilpack+sparkies and today i changed the fuel filter. And yesterday it decided to start squeeling like a pig every time some positive pressure was created in the intake. So yeah, should i start diging a grave for it or is something just playing silly buggers?

Lately my S1 R33 (RB25DET+5sp manual) has been running really rough, it idles rough and once it gets over 3000RPM feels like it's going to shake itself to peices. I checked the coilpacks, taped them up already and checked the spark plugs, all look seemed fine, i think it might be the AFM, last mechanic i took it too tried cleaning the AFM and ended up pouring a whole heap of de-greaser or some shit into the engine causing it to missfire something chronic, so i'm guessing he may have screwed the AFM at the same time since it started not long after. Anyway to check the AFM is working fine? And any other ideas on what it may be, the best way to describe it would be that something feels unbalanced, so yeah any ideas would be nice

I'm interested but yeah pics of the components would be nice

Still looking

Interested in headlights and front bar, only if they suit a S1 R33.

As it says, need a passenger side R33 S1 headlight, would prefer to buy a set though (other has gay tinting on it that annoys me). PM or reply with offers ASAP!

~ Aftermarket Font bar (Trust) $250 Hey does that fit a S1 R33?

Hey interested in one of the front bars (depends on my finances), where are you located?