Rudager

On the left, behind that black cylinder with Nissan on it.

Hey, Looking for a pair of headlights for a Series 1 R33 GST-T, One front bar, standard, aftermarket, dont care as long as the price is right And i need an ashtray for the center console. Would be nice if it was in Sydney and available over the next month or so (i dont live in Sydney, but i'll be travelling there alot over the next month) Thanks!

Pretty negotiable on the price BTW, just dont have the time to make it the car it should be

I got 1 1993 model R33 GTS-T with a paintjob that needs some work 1993 Registered till 26th of July RB25DET 5 Speed manual Hybrid 600*300*76 FMIC Exhaust Dual stage boost controller 157,000 km's (last 35,000 - 40,000 have been 90% highway driving) Dark blue paint Alpine CDA-9807 MP3/WMA/CD player 12" Alpine Type S sub with Alpine monoblock (cant remember RMS rating right now) Another spare 2 ch amp Located in Tamworth NSW, will travel to Sydney/Newcastle if your keen Now the catch is it doesnt have a front right now and the front drivers side guard and back of the bootlid are a different colour to the car. I'll buy a new front of the buyers choice for upto $500 and fit it to the car before they collect it, then it just needs some paint and it'll be sweet! Looking at around the $14,500 mark. PM for contact details Here's a pic of it with the front it was going to have on it before the gutter jumped in front of me

Yo pic me! Rudager67@gmail.com

The guy i had do my intercooler piping if he didnt just do exhaust work Absolute champion, stayed till 6:30 the other night to get it done for me, then when i took it i got around the corner and blew one of the pipes off :Oops: and he spent another 30minutes putting some spot welds on etc. And the quality of the work is top notch. And also the fact it blew the pipe off means they couldnt have really given it a thrashing when testing it (i'd only gotten upto about 5PSI when it happened)

I picked up my car today after getting a FMIC installed and after driving around for a while i grabbed either side and the hot side was hot cold side was nice and cold. But when i lifted the bonnet and grabbed the pipe right up next to the throttle body it was as hot as the hot pipe coming off the turbo. I though of insulation it, but have no idea where to start for this kind of thing, maybe that exhaust wrapping stuff?

Just wondering where they are? Was replacing a bulb in my headlights earlier and somehow the red wire touched the metal, blah blah now there's no power going to the headlights (checked with multimeter) so think i blew a fuse

*raises hand* me too

So what better time to buy one then now?

I'll give you $90 + postage

Adelaide is a state? well there you go. (sorry just found it funny )

Really want a R33 S1 M-spec front bar (the GTR front on it now is totaled), would like the indicators as well Let me know what you people have E-Mail: jsmith67@iprimus.com.au Ph 0409 227 999 Or PM

Kinda O/T but my HICAS seems to be screwed over 80km/h or so it'll start to "slide" for lack of a better word, from side to side, if i take out the fuse it stops. So anyway if i just remove the fuse will that be enough to disable it (and not break something)?

As i understand it a higher octane rating means the fuel is harder to ignite, the by-product of this is the abilty to resists "knock" as they put it. Just means that while 91RON fuel may ignite under certain presure and heat with no flame source (ie. spark plugs) then 98RON will need more presure and heat until it ignites with on flame source

two words. "refinery sharing" That ultimate you people are putting in your car may just be refined by shell.

There's no definate km's where it must be rebuilt for any engine it's all about how you treat it. Start her up eveyr morning and take it to the redline in every gear while it's cold, dont service it, drive it to it's limits all the time and dont expect it to last too long Take it easy, treat it well, service regulary and you shouldnt have a problem for a fair while.

Torque on a dyno means shit, unless it's an engine dyno The gear your in, diff ratios, rims size amount of rubber, tailshaft length all kinds of stuff Killowatts/HP/PS is the mesure of energy being produced basically how much chemical potential energy (the air/fuel mix) is being turned into kinetic energy, which in turn gets used to spin the crank etc etc. Torque is a mesaure of the amount of "twisting" force being applied. Cars have gearboxes and diffs to change the torque output becuase otherwise you would go nowhere fast It's confusing, they sound like the same thing but there not, and i cant think of a better way to explain it (i'm like that i know what i'm trying to say i just cant do it very well )

heavy little bastards though, like 1500kg's isnt it?

optimax, 1 becuase i CBF driving to the other side of town where the ultimate is dispensed, 2 it's the only other 98Ron stuff in the area, and 3 cause the car runs perfectly fine on it.

Either S1 or S2, preference to S2. Must include indicators

Hmm looks like we had a petrochemical expert here with his own lab and everything. I wouldnt mind knowing the molecular makeup of optimax when you have some spare time note: this post is very sarcastic.

Pretty sure there bigger and can are better for more HP than the z32 They come of a 4.5L V8 so there designed to mesure big flows of air

Hi, the auto and off button in my line seems to be screwed, just want another digital climate control thingy that sits above the HU, with whatever wires/plugs i need to put it straight into another R33

Ah k cool, looks more green than blue though, but i like it alot Mines all one colour too so mine must be special