Kaze21

Yes that is a good point and I could not know for sure, however I did not have this problem with the old tension rods but in saying that the bushes were pretty f**ked. Only thing I could think of would be to shorten the tension rod to pull the control arm forward a bit but to me that sounds like bad news. The s13's difference is I believe in the strut itself as I found out when trying to fit a set of 18's, the passenger wheel would scrape on the baseplate of the strut where the spring sits, only way I could do it was a set of gktech spacers and wider gaurds to keep it semi legal.

Ok so I've come across a problem What It's got done: Lower king springs Adjustable Fuca (front upper camber arms) Adjustable tension rods Spaced 30mm to clear sway bar on full lock Sitting on 235/40 zr18 Achilles. My problem simply put the passenger wheel sits further back in the wheel arch than the drivers does and it scrapes on the side skirt when I turn. It's only started after I fitted up the tension rods, they were measured against the stock one that came out before fitting and set as close as possible to stock, I've just done them up as far as they would go (maybe 2-4mm) but it still doesn't look enough. Wondering if the 32 has some strange suspension set up like the s13 (differences between driver and passenger clearances.)

Oh ok well then it's deffinatly the the wrong cluster it's an 89 hcr32 I'll see if I can track one down thanks. Also with the speedo I'm talkin about the little plastic bit at the cluster end of the speedo cable and drives the speedo

Thanks for the info. Iv got the cluster out and the film stuff on the back is a light green in coulor. The speedo in the cluster does work but the little plastic bit that drives it looks like its busted

Hi iv got a problem with my 32, i bought it a few weeks ago now and has just sat in the shed while i do bits and pieces to it to get a rwc and rego, im not sure but i think it may have had the cluster swapped for some reason and the inner fascia is silver instead of the normal black dunno if any came out like that or not. theres a couple of problems with it, for starters the speedo doesnt work properly, and without the engine running and the ignition switched on the tacho instantly reads 1000rpm iv heard there are two different clusters in the r32, s1 from 89-91 models and i guess 92 onwards but not too sure anyone heard about the rpm problem before? any advice? im thinkin of tryin another cluster and see if it makes a difference

i think the problem may have been solved as the 32 has abs and i think i may have the non abs shaft

Well that's the thing when I bought the secondhand tailshaft I took the original with me for comparison and they we're both the same length. My guess is that either the diff has moved forward and torn the first rubber, or when the original owner converted it to manual he just didn't care about the rubber and forced it and I ended up with the same tailshaft size. The guy I bought the shaft off of was pretty certain it was from an r32 gtst

Hey guys and gals, just wondering if anyone have head of the rear diff moving forward in an r32 gtst? im not sure whether thats what the problem is or not as iv just bought the car and had to replace the tailshaft cause the centre bearing rubber had torn. Iv put the new tailshaft in and bolted up the rear half to the diff but i cant get the centre bearing to bolt up its about 1cm too far forward, im thinking it might just be easier to have the rear half of the shaft shortened and rebalanced but then i have concerns that there is actually something wrong further back and cause more damage later on. does anyone have any advice as id really like to try get the car on the road soon as i need to sell my other car

Does the redtop rb20 have the restrictor? Iv just asked one of my local performance mechanics if I will need the r33 lines and all he said was that all bb turbos have a restrictor and I shouldn't need one

Hi iv recently bought a r32 and decided to throw on the r34 turbo on that i had sittin in the shed. I spent a few hrs getting the old one out and swaped over the waste gate to the OP6 and got it in there after swearing and cursing for about 15min, bolted it to the manifold and decided to start on the water and oil lines, i then realised the banjo bolts for the water lines are too small so i jumped on the net to find out the thread pitch for the banjo bolts and also found out that i need the oil line from an r33 for the oil restrictor. what i want to know is if the restrictor is absolutly nessacary, also is the restrictor in the line or in the banjo?

Yeah I know about the Japanese manual wish I could read it Hmm well maybe I'll try with the r33 one and see how far I get before I start scratching my head

Hi all, new to sau I current own an s13, but I thought this would be the place to get some solid answers from all you RB experts I recently bought a RB25DET NEO for cheap as chips only problem is its in parts already stripped down, iv looked everywhere for a detailed manual on the engine but have had no luck would I just be able to use the r33 workshop manual to help with figuring out what goes where and torque specs or are the two motors different in these aspects? Also any advice on things I should check or do while the engines apart? This engine will be going in my s13 btw