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Everything posted by CRSKmD
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i have the blue one NE area but it doesnt come out much minus track days
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Have had some issues with high speed stability on track so a couple of years ago now i picked up a GTR wing with one of those wank flaps pre-installed reasonably cheap. Basic simulations suggest it will do something even with the higher roof line of the sedan. Top Stock GTR wing (only aero surface modelled). Bottom no wing. the added flap may actually help to compensate for the higher roof line so we'll see Genuine wing too unfortunately someone had hacked it up to fit a silvia(?) so the plan is to reshape it as close as i can and have it on a spare boot lid i can swap on and off for track days as i still like the look of the boot lip. I'll likely take off the extended flap too.
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Who in SA still has an R32 4 door. I remember seeing a few around 5-10 years ago back when i daily'd mine but now i don't see them other than Instagram or All Japan Day... or when i brush the dust of mine in the shed
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yeah its odd that it specifically mentions plenum chamber modifications. someone must have done something to get them to specifically rule it out. maybe it was those hidden NOS ones haha
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good to know. i was just speaking from past experience where if it looks modified they are well within their rights to send it for inspection. though i did find this on the SA.Gov.au site. https://www.sa.gov.au/topics/driving-and-transport/vehicles/vehicle-standards-and-modifications/engine-and-exhaust-modifications No alterations to the engine's camshaft, inlet manifold, carburettor/fuel injectors, engine control unit or the catalytic converter are permitted. Modified or aftermarket plenum chambers or throttle bodies are not permitted.
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aren't the rules here 2 intake mods allowed fmic and pod filter would take it up but yeah safe to say it'll be a defect anyway seeing as they can get you on suspicion anyway. Good to see you're still kicking around in 32 land
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to be fair i never took heaps of car re-facing both flanges when replacing the gasket so i think previous issues with the heat and stretching studs/melting nuts where exacerbated by a slightly warped flange. Cheers though!
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oh awesome. You had your GTR on "yy plates" ? Come say hi if you ever catch me out an about!
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post track day tear down another T3 gasket melted. This one was a genuine Nissan complete with flame rings Brass nuts mushroomed "flame proof hose" pitting in T3 manifold flange spent a long time carefully facing both flanges installed inconel studs and copper nuts (generic pic but you get the idea) all back together. With the fresh gaskets, inconel studs and copper nuts. Along with carefully facing the flanges and using the Nissan nut retaining washer tabs i have done as much as i can. The main issue is the turbo is technically too small for the motor and is running outside the efficiency map so lots of heat is generated. So if this doesn't hold i guess the only option is a bigger turbo.
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Track day October 2019 track wheels on lined up ready for the session coming back in cooling down *Euro beat intensifies* Having a blast and matching my old PB when in the first afternoon session...the T3 gasket melts again. The resulting leak effectively creates a gas torch which ended up melting the hose inside my braided waterline so my day in the 32 ended here. Though my mate let me drive the above AE86 in all its stripped out NA big brake glory and so much fun was had! Still i limped the car home without any overheating.
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okay lets continue this story. new box in. this box had a measly 11,000kms on it. Pulled from a car back in the 90's filled with oil and kept in storage for a mate of mines personal project...which never happened but i got to reap the rewards. fresh rear hub assemblies as one had started the develop a slight wheel bearing noise at speed under load. last thing i wanted was a wheel bearing failure at speed. fresh studs where a nice touch too when installing the new box we noticed this with the Clutch slave. have since found out the 15/16" HFM units have an issue where the body of the cylinder just touched the bellhousing before the mounting tabs are flush causing a angled force which results in this over time. OEM nissan unit back on for now. see how it holds as my clutch had required a bigger cylinder due to blowing out the seals in the stock sized ones. all back together an track day ready. As expected the super low kms RB25DET gearbox was butter smooth and really changed how enjoyable the car is to drive! follow up post from the track day coming soon!
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out with the old in with the new say what you will about GKtech fans but this was one of the original ones and didn't explode when a pulley went through it and was still good enough to get me home also found out why my car was getting slower towards the end of the last track day
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out for the first track day where i was able to more or less have an issue free outing. and i manage to get my 1:19 finally! I also generously provided some aero parts and a window banner for my Mates MPS (FYI i have a big ass sticker cutter now if anyone wants stuff) all was going well until the very last lap when my AC pulley decided to escape. taking out my clutch can on the way but hey drove there beat my PB and drove home
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yeah wild! Nah just stock gears i considered going upgraded gears with the new pump but figured a brand new N1 should be fine
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Yeah Neo now never had any issue with the RB20 but was also only Nistune so not as much safety as the Link Nah stock long motor have not opened it and let the magic out as yet
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Nope basically no change even had fresh 20W50 ULX110 oil which may I add required 3 bottles to do a change. The oil pressure at idle was low around 20psi and maxed out at 45-50 psi by 4000rpm. We were thinking that potentially the Oil pressure relief on the oil pump was jammed. So again off came the sump, gearbox, clutch and flywheel. But to ensure if the pump relief was jammed I took off the pump as a complete unit rather than just removing the relief while leaving the pump in the car. Which as you may know required the accessory belts and timing belt to come off as well. Oil pump off and relief shown. I removed the spring to check the relief valves range of motion and it was as smooth as butter with no scoring. But as you can see the pump its self was rooted There should not be any of those concentric grooves some of which were easily 2mm deep. So a brand new N1 oil pump was ordered. while waiting for the pump to arrive I noticed that the Turbo oil drain rubber line had split So this was replaced with a new hose. New N1 pump arrived This went in along with some new genuine cam seals to be safe. and bam here we go over 90 psi of oil pressure on idle. so after four sump and gearbox removals we made it and time to chase that 1:19 at Mallala
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Purely to spite Ben C34. Prior to the August 20th track day i did a basic fuel system upgrade. Made it to the track day first lap out and came in the check tyre pressures when i noticed there was oil absolutely everywhere. I traced the leak to the catch can vent. I emptied the catch can from the drain but only ~200ml came out so something was obviously a miss with the baffling. Without much time we decide to remove it and upgrade it to a dual HKS and Nismo system This solved the oil issue and by the end of the day there was hardly any oil in the catch cans. However, even with the baffled gated Hi-Octane sump I was still hitting engine protection due to low oil pressure. The logs showed that oil pressure was now stable but capped off at around 50psi whereas before with the stock sump it would increase to around 90psi but drop to 15psi. After some research it seemed like the Oil pickup may not be sealing to the block resulting in air being sucked in at the top rather than oil at the bottom as would the path of least resistance. When I had fitted the extended pickup to suit the new sump I had reused the old gasket style seal which the later model AWD RB’s have. But the extended pickup was of the older style which used an O-Ring seal. So with a brand new genuine O-Ring seal acquired we got the car back on the hoist and went through the sump removal process which as you may recall from last time required the gearbox, clutch and flywheel to come off to get to the rear 4 10mm bolts. New O-Ring seal fitted and back together went the car this should fix the issue right? As the only thing that had changed from when it had good pressure but poor oil control was the baffled sump and extended pickup…
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1965 Prince GTB(Skyline)
CRSKmD replied to blk180's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
commenting to stay subscribed. Very keen to watch this development -
next track day is 20th august... need to start and finish the fuel system by then. probably should upgrade the rear sway bar to match the front too
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Used whiteline sway bar acquired. Gave it a clean up and some fresh paint. mile more clearance than stock as you can see below. So Whiteline sway bars for R32 skyline have ~20-25mm more clearance than the stock one which is good for the new Hi-Octane baffled/extended sump
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Mohsen finally bought a GTR.
CRSKmD replied to Mohsen's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
progress!