GarettH

Looking for any and all insight on an issue im having. Took the car to the dyno and ran 100% perfect, on the way home while cruising the car went full lean 18+ afr and now idles there and drives full lean all the time. and to get the car to start I have to pulse the injectors from ecu then crank the car over. Small car details 2200CC injectors, E85, Dual walbro 450s, Adaptronic ECU ect.. Fuel pressure at the rail is steady at 50psi and I've pulled return line off at the tank and primed pumps to make sure its flowing fuel and not a plugged filter or line. Swapped spark plugs, Compression is perfect, Boost leak checked, Car idles at same vacuum as before, Checked timing, Tried swapping the CAS. TPS is good, Water temp/Intake temp sensors are working. ID2200CC dont have filters so the injectors can't be plugged either. I was thinking the injector wiring but I can pulse each injector from ecu and hear them click and watch the Voltages/Amps going to them. I'm stumped at this point and would appreciate any advice.

Thanks for the reply, I got a-hold of DCS/ NPS both very knowledgeable but also share different opinions in some aspects. I think I will go with the DCS but there clutch is un-sprung so I imagine it will chatter quite a bit. How is the ATS twin for chatter when you disengage the clutch?

I was also reading about them! I seen they had a few different options online. Which one did you end up going with?

Hey guys, I've been trying to find some solid answers and trying searching but answers to vary. I'm needing a clutch to handle 600kw @ the wheels with street driving being the #1 priority. From the forums I've seem Jim Berry seem to be popular but I can't find any contact info him, Me being from Canada I would need to email or maybe a facebook page. I've also read decent things about NPC. Anyways looking for some recommendations on what clutches you guys are running with 600+ kw that are some what friendly on the street.

I'm talking about the actual Nissan intended bushings not pineapples. The metal cups that squish the bushing were used on factory and I can't find if I'm suppose to use them on new bushing's.

Hey guys I have a few questions as my sub-frame bushings don't have any clear instructions on what they want done with the caps. I've found a few pictures of other members installing there's but a few guys did it different. The rear I've seen installed 2 ways. 1) With a large cap on the very top and the small cap on the bottom. and 2) with only the small cap on the bottom. Can anyone please confirm how they installed theres? Or like this with a cap on the top and a cap on the bottom. This is the front bushings (Closest to the engine bay) Do you simply install a large cap between the brace and the bushing cap? (Note this isn't tightened down thats why its not straight)

Okay thank you, only picture i could find was of sr20 ones with washers. Just curious where did you find picture/torque spec

Thank you so much i swear i looked through every post for these. Do you know if these came with washers for an rb26?

Hey guys ive seen a few posts but no answers, does anyone have the torque spec for these main studs?

Canada but 3-4 day shipping is no problem at all.

Everything was pulled from the same rb26 cylinder head and has been checked by the machine shop to make sure everything is still in spec and straight. Im thinking $400 is fair to ask. Everything is stock and in good working condition. 12 intake valves 12 exhaust valves 24 retainers 24 keepers/locks 24 springs 24 cam caps All cam bolts

I have not done them personally buy my engine builder said he did all that. I mainly wanted to see where people mounted there catch cans to run 2 lines to cam covers + sump. And I know a rear drain on the head is useless if you don't vent the sump as the crank pressure won't allow it to drain back. But thought if its vented through catch can it might work.

RB26 Oil return question Hey guys, Ive read the oiling thread and still have a few questions as I havent be able to find many pictures. I have already had my cylinder head oil returns drilled, tomei oil pump, tomei oil restricter, tomei extended and baffled sump. All i have left is my catch can setup. I've seen the diagrams but not many pictures of people actually running it with both valve covers vented and the 2x sump vent connections. So id like to see pictures of how you guys routed the lines. Since I dont want lines running right across my valve covers. So where do you guys place your catch can? My ABS is deleted so I'd like to put my catch can there as i can run 2x -10 straight from my valve covers to the catch can. Ive read a few opinions but has anyone welded the 2 AN fittings on the exhaust side of the sump rather then intake side? That way i wouldnt have to run 2x -10an lines completely around my engine? When the sump has been vented is it still recommened to do the rear head oil drain and baffled cam covers? Thanks

It appears i messaged the wrong Scotty lol. Ill shoot you a PM.

It seems there is a crazy amount of threads hes mentioned in. Ill try to sort through some of the threads and shoot him a message. Any opinions also welcomed still!