\\\Wiktor

Diffrencis RB26DETT STD and N1 blocks? What exact diffrens do they have? Engine HP? Bearings? Rods? Would really apriciate so much info as posible so if some on would clear this out for me I would be most geatful. thanks. Wiktor

what is this for plenum/surgetank? manifacurer? or is it costum built? Wiktor

everything is interesting but it defenetly needs to be bigger than the orginal gts surgetank/plenum. and also interested in a 4'/100mm throttlebody. if you have something plz mail me. [email protected] Wiktor

does your aircon work popperly? producing cold and so on. could be the a/c compressor that is getting weared out. so remove the belts to get to a/c compressor belt and remove it too. then turn it by hand it should turn smoothly with out any odd sound and you should also press and pull on the pulley in all directions, you are looking for clonks and wiggling. if there are any your compressor needs to be changed

TNX!!

Someone got Injector specifications for the R32/33/34:s :confused: would really appreciate if someone had specs,flow and impedance and pressure, for all RB engines or any way the turbocharged ones. thanks /Viktor

ehhh it depends on how you see it, if you have troubles moving your arm the distance that is recuired to shift yes maybe then. but it dosen't make the actual shifting faster cus' your syncros in the gear box still need some time to be able too work properly. no it works perfect to shift really fast with a shortshifter also the only thing that happends is that the syncros wear out faster. personally i really like shortshifter kits cus they make the gearbox feel more solid.

as dragon say's probebly the altenator that is wearing out its brushes so its not giving any power. or otherwise it could be a loose earth cable or the main power cabel that is loose. check em'

i only have this pic. had a really great pic of the socket on the wiring loom. with all the numbers pointed out. but lost it when my computer crashed :Paranoid: so if any one have some thing they recons would be the pic im talking about i would apprecate if they could give it to me *plz*

RED: simplest to connect to the car stereo's + (cigarette ligther plus also works fine) it then also get's power when the key turned. Black: can also be "stolen" from the stereo or cigarette ligther -(negative) green: either plug it up to the orginal tacho's wire or at pin 7 (seven) on the ecu.

Thanks guys!! Now i know

When do you start getting fuel cuts om a RB25DET ? And is cus the AFM is maxing out or is it a map sensor(if there are one?) that is working like overboost protection? And do any one have the pin diagram for the Ecu? thanks, Viktor

most likley this is happening cous you don't really got any resistane on first gear it's like reving the engine without any gear in you don't get any boost because the engine dont have anything breaking it. and without any resictaneyou cant get any pressure. its like blowing in a hose quite easy but if you plug your finger half way in to it it gets harder to blow.

I have the same idea as "KamikazeR33" its probebly your cluthrelase bearing thats screwed. if you have the posebility to lift up your car do it and listen. probebly tha problem. if the bearing thats supports the inputshaft to the gearbox would be f***ed it should sound all the time and you should get a WERY nasty sound when you put your foot down.

no not always. due to no oil pressure when cold the lifters "loose" their oil thats inside couse they are leaking. to get them filled again takes a while due to the very small hole where the oil is going in to them.

No, not in short term but you are loosing power due to the valves are not fully closed. You should either take the hydraulic lifters out and wash them in alcohol. or better is to exchange them to new ones. they usally don't cost mutch, but there is a little time consuming to exchange them. But this "problem" can also accure when you just have changed oil due to air have come in to the lifters, or if you have changed to a oil that has to low density to make the lifters to work as they should.

Where the sensor for the warning ligth for low oilpressure is mountet on the engine. there you put an t-connection and connect the "orginal" sensor and the sensor for you aftermarket gauge in to the "top's" of the T. Sorry no pictures.