Memm

Had similar issues when I use to own my R33/BMW.. Some days ran rough and started hesitantly but cleared up once warm if I was lucky - Ended up being fuel pump on both cars

Hopefully I come around to liking it soon otherwise its all going... haha even the floor carpet is cream colour

V35 Re-shell - Few Questions! Hi guys, My 2003 V35 was involved in a rear end accident and so iv'e decided to re-shell it - throw all the running gear, suspension/brake setup into the clean, straight shell which is a 2004 shell. Questions... 1. Are there any decent 'engine removal' DIY's? 2. Thinking of swapping my black/suede interior from my old shell into the new shell which is all cream leather (don't really like it) - Which means pretty much whole inside of the car will be swapped over... Are there any full dash board removal DIY's as it seems only dash cluster removal DIY is what is coming up in Google search and not the whole front end dash panel as I am after.. 3. Just in general, swapping things from a 2003 shell to a 2004 would there be any things that won't fit or work with in the new shell/loom? Will also be swapping my dash cluster into the new shell as well Thanks in advance!

Quick update... took injectors out and had them pulsing through a bath, increasing the speed etc... cleaned and put back in then a day after no start it did the same, one other thing that iv'e been doing to help find out the problem is have the cover that covers the coil packs removed, and while it is running lumpy and misfiring i removed each coil pack plug/loom one by one trying to find out which was misfiring, for example if i removed a plug and it ran worse, then it tells me that the specific coil pack is working, and if it doesn't effect or make the car run work when i remove another plug I know it is THAT specific one/cylinder that isn't working..................... Done that procedure a few times, whenever it ran lumpy or misfired and it isn't a consistent coil pack that isnt working, it will sometimes be the 2nd coil pack, and the 5th then the next day will be the 4th coil pack only or something... seriously out of ideas and I have had the coil packs replaced with different ones by the way.

Haven't tried to jump start with another car, but I have tried using a big jump start battery pack with big leads coming off and it didn't seem to make a difference

RB25DE (Non turbo) - After not starting for a day seems to always start/crank over very slowly and lumpy, after about 3 minutes of trying to start it, it runs but very lumpy and misfires for 5-10 minutes then returns to normal once warmed up to firing on all cylinders... Once started and running it also spits out a bit of water/fuel Was told it was coil packs - Checked and changed, still does the same Was told Spark Plugs - Checked and changed, still does the same Was told Air Flow Meter sending wrong signal if dirty to the ECU - checked and no problem Was told Fuel lines, if fuel was going into cylinders - Checked lines putting normal amount into fuel rails Was told head gasket, checked radiator and empty'd the water out just to start it over a couple days without water (to eliminate the fact that it could be sucking in water from radiator, would start normal and fine if it was a head gasket problem with no water, still started lumpy and the same) - Also had plenty of water in radiator, almost full didn't lose any Was told that it could be faulty injectors, leaking or dripping over night then when started it not running properly due to an ''overflow'' or too much petrol in cylinders hence the lumpy/misfire until that petrol is burnt up.... thought id still post incase anyone knew for sure what it was Could it be a possible blocked injector problem? Keep in mind that the problem goes away once warmed up Anyone come across this and know for sure what the problem is??? been bugging me for so long! Videos of each problem listed below... Although i'm sure they are both related.. Crank over/Start problem - Running/Misfire problem - Sorry for long post! really can't figure this one out

Awesome! thanks guys think I might have to upgrade my jack stands though lol had the same ones from about 5 years ago thanks again!

Thanks for the info but do you mind taking a few quick photos with simple lables for the axle stand points? ive used the toe hooks previously and will just stick with them but yeah don't feel too comfortable going under the car with shit axle stand points, everything else in regards to cars etc im fine with just not jacking and axle stand points sorry for being a pain in the ass lol thanks!!

Hey guys.. Planning on changing my gearbox oil on my R33 and i'm having troubles figuring out where to put the jack and axle stands without cracking or bending anything... I was shown a diagram on where to jack and put axle stands but under my car them places are bent in and look unreliable... Anyone know any other places that wont bend or crack? don't really want to jack from the diff either since they diff housing might crack - Also a side question..... best recommended gearbox oil for a GTS R33? Manual

I know they did, read what I wrote

Sorry, I'm new to SAU, thanks great to be here Never knew people on here rounded off 2 Threads on Bumpers to 1 Million, my mistake..

Saw this earlier today and needed to find out what its called asap!!

Oh haha glad you wrote that, I was in my garage all day trying to figure out what you meant, was starting to think my tape measure was broken or something ahah

Legend! Thanks bud

Ummm now that you mention it, when in the drivers seat, there was a little twist mechanism on the bottom left plastic plate under the steering wheel, however I dont think that would have been apart of it because I traced up where the wires for that ran and it lead to the back of the speedo, any idea what that could have been too? didnt look factory..