midnight

ok so ive installed a HKS type 1 timer I have installed it but there is a problem. the timer functions, when I turn the ignition off the timer starts counting down, but the car turns off instantly. I dont think my install is suspect as it was basically plug and play with my old timer. Im thinkings it may be a fault in the unit, as it is second hand.. anyone got any ideas?

ok, well I installed a switch today, had to fabricate a bracket, came out suprisingly well for being hungover. B) Ive adjusted it so the switch only engages once the clutch is all the way in.

dude I posted that on the first page.

also look at techedge http://wbo2.com/ they are Australian based and offer very affordable units.

ok thanks guys I was thinking clutch would be best option. and yeah I already have a Bee Racing rev limiter, cuts ignition instead of fuel. flames are fun. Im thinking a microswitch with a bracket under the clucth lever.

hey, just wonder what is best to use for the switch on a 2step limiter? i.e handbrake, clutch, or a button near the shifter? what do most people prefer?

invision board has lots more features. you guys will grow to love it.

I dont see the reasoning in putting an rb20 in, as the engine is heavier you start messing with the weight distribution, for the money spent you could modify the SR to easily surpass the rb20, and since you are going going to the trouble of doing a conversion anyways it seems more logical to go all out and put an rb25 or rb26dett in.

what shits me is when people dont spell A'PEXi preoperly, they forget the apostrophe and write apexi. I never say the "i" either. I think ill put a spin on the Great Eddy debate too, aparantly this was from the us trust site. I think I win..

good work, sweet retrofit, means you wont get defected for aftermarket ecu either.

For trade: pair of VOLK Racing TE37s, 15x6.5 4x114.3 +35 offset Condition: Good condition, no gutter rash, scratches or dents. Price and price conditions: As I am going to 5 stud I am willing to swap for 5x114.3 rims, depending on model and condition. Extra Info: Comes with roadworthy tyres, though one tyre has a sizeable chunk taken from the sidewall. each wheel weighs approximately 4.15kgs, good light drift rims. Contact Details: Contact via PM Location: Sydney Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: via pick up/ trade point only, no postage Note: If there is no interest in a trade I will most likely sell them, so feel free to make an offer.

my car came from sapporo through j-spec, no rust, very good condition.

so is there any difference at all to fast?

lol its cc per minute somethings wrong with ur calculations methinks

yeah id recommend sspi too. done in 5days, dropped it off on monday and it was done on friday.

I attached mine with these, you can buy them from jaycar.

ive heard the d-jetro is more suited for WOT applications ie drag racing. can be a tricky tune for street.

you can buy them at jaycar, the thing is they dont really clean inside the injector.

you can get the sensors from techedge also, the one they recommend is about $80 i think, so youre up for about $300 for a complete one in kit form.

i forked out the 100 odd dollars to get it delivered to my door, saves some hassle

yeah go tech edge theyre alot cheaper if u build them yourself also.

no cat and a bee-r rev limiter... the limiter cuts ignition instead of fuel, so yeah big flames when u bounce off it. dont bother with a ricer flamer kit, theyre gay and cost too much for a glorifed sparkplug and coil

mines been uncomplied for 6 months. not sure if there is a time limit.

my recommendation, dont buy it, wait for a better one

dude its there I searched exactly what I said and it came up with one... http://www.google.com.au/search?biw=890&hl...le+Search&meta= takes u straight to this site.. http://www.skyline-racing-tech.com/link3_5.html it has a diagram and everything