ECR033

Don't think it would be any good for an RB20 unfortunately - the ECU came out of my R33 GTS25T I'm not too sure what mods it's tuned for exactly - the ECU came with the car when I bought it and all the research I've done on it since then hasn't really clarified the issue for me either. I personally never had the car on the dyno with that ECU (as I've since replaced it with a PFC), but the previous owner gave me a few pics of the car at a dyno day where it made ~160rwkw (apparantly running 9psi) with the Mines ECU and no other mods, which I thought was pretty good (probably a little too good to be honest). The car did run well when I had it in though - ran a 13.9 at WSID a few weeks ago (before getting the PFC) with minimal mods and a pathetic 60' time of 2.3 (my fault lol), so I would say that the Mines ECU does give a decent improvement over the Standard ECU

^BUMP^ It's going relatively cheap - do a search, there are Mines ECUs that were for sale on here for more than double what I'm asking for. Any interest?

Shit mate - sorry to hear. Here's hoping that you get it back in one piece. Hope it was insured...

No offense, but that comment is one of the most stupid things I have read on here for a while. After all the tragic 'street racing' incidents of the last few months and the mountain of bad publicity that they cause the rest of us car enthusiasts, you'd think that people would learn wouldn't you.

The search button is a good starting point - there's plenty of threads on workshops. As mentioned above, CRD and UAS both have good reputations for working on GTR's. I'd also recommend RUF performance at Ingleburn - they tuned my PFC and I was pretty happy with the results. A few people have also recommended Bel Garage, so they may be worth a shot as well. As for price, in this instance I guess you get what you pay for...i.e you pay more for quality workmanship and all of the above mentioned workshops would probably charge accordingly. Good luck mate

I've got the mag, but no scanner...sorry. Pic is from SilviaNSW cruise to Cataract Dam. The lass is question is leaning on what appears to be silver R33 (I can tell by the door handles lol). So, who is it???

I'll be there - hoping to lower my PB to a mid 13 (or thereabouts) from the 13.9 I did a couple of weeks ago before the car was tuned. Traction will be the issue though - damm Falkens! It would be good to get a heap of Skylines out there on the night and hopefully the weather is dry and cool(ish) - looking forward to it.

Pic now attached

I'll be there next week as well Maybe start a new thread for next week - it would be tops to see a heap of Skylines out there racing on the night

It could be arranged provided that you're genuinely interested in purchasing the ECU. PM me if you'd like to discuss further. All depends on what boost you're running. Assuming you're running around 12psi, I'd estimate that you should have around 200-215rwkw (if not more). I'm not sure how much 'extra' power you'd get with the Mine's ECU, but it does compensate for some of the inherent inadequacies of the standard ECU when you start making minor mods to the car. Yes - I had it in my manual R33. It may also be suitable for an auto, although I'm not sure on that...maybe someone else can clarify.Apologies for not being able to post up pics as yet. My home PC is playing up and I couldn't get them up last night. I'll attempt to do so some time over the weekend.

Thanks for the advice Robo - the car was definately tuned on 12psi and the knock reading usually doesn't go any higher than 40-50 even when I give the car a bit of stick (usually stays under 20 when driving normally). When you say "follow the trace", are you talking about the graphs on the PFC hand controller or am I missing something (which is probably more likely ).

Forgot to add in my initial post that the ECU is from an R33 GTS25t MXT Imports, I'm really not sure if the ECU will fit directly into a 1JZ-GTE Soarer to be honest, although I'm a little doubtful unfortunately. As for benefits, the Mines ECU removes the factory speed limiter and boost cut and has a far more aggressive tune that the standard ECU. Unfortunately, the ECU isn't programable (as far as I know), so it would be difficult to modify the current tune of the ECU. I've read about a few cars on here using them that are pushing out decent power figures, but I would only recommend this ECU if you're only looking at modest upgrades to your car as the ECU will most likely be a limiting factor in your upgrades further down the track (due to the fact that it isn't easily tunable) if you're looking to push out big power i.e +200rwkw. But for the price, it's definately a good little upgrade if you're not in the position to buy a Power FC. I'll post up some pics tonight mate

So, no 13 sec pass? That's a shame mate. Logic says that you should be doing 13's, so once you get it together all at once, you should get that 13 no problem - I guess you'll have to go back next week then

SOLD I've recently upgraded to a Power FC and therefore have no need to keep my Mines ECU any longer. It's in perfect condition, has official Mines guarentee plaque and the Mines tamper proof seals are still in place. It's a straight "plug and play" swap for the stock ECU and was running well in the car up till the day I replaced it with the PFC. It's a nice, cheaper ECU upgrade than going for a PFC. Only asking for $350 - can also arrange postage at buyers expense if not in Sydney. Please post here or PM me if you're interested (can send photos if anyones interested). Thanks

That sucks mate - no good to hear at all. Main thing is that you're alright though as I'm guessing that it would be a pretty freaky thing to happen at 170 km/h.

I find it's more grippy than the road, but it's still easy to get wheelspin.

lol, no wonder I can't get any better than a 0.2 R/T - I'll try that next time I was keen to go tonight, but something's come up, so im aiming to be there again next week instead. Good luck tonight fellas - look forward to reading about that 13 sec pass benm

I had my PFC tuned recently and the car's been running well, so I've been pretty happy (see here) ....till I noticed something today which got me a little worried. I've been running 9psi since the tune (using Greddy Profec B Spec II), although the car was tuned on 12psi. Just for something different, I ran 12psi when I took the car out at lunch and I gave the car a quick squirt at full throttle in 4th gear (from around 3500rpm) and the knock reading went through the roof to 133. Obviously I backed off very quickly when the engine light came on, although I've done the same thing before at 9psi and the knock reading went to just over 40 so I was a bit shocked when I saw 133 on the hand controller...especially considering that the max knock reading generally stays between 10 - 30 under normal driving conditions. I just gave the tuner a quick call and he said that my EBC may have overboosted (apparantly Profec B's have a tendancy to do that when you just floor it from low rpm in 4th or 5th) causing the knock reading to go through the roof momentarily. Apparantly there's not too much that can be done about it on the Profec B, although you have additional parametres to deal with this sort of thing with an AVC-R. Does this sound right? Should I be worried? I'm not too worried as I wouldn't normally drive like this and the car's been running fine otherwise (I also trust the tuner and went to him on good word of mouth), but I just wanted to post this up to see what other people think...hopefully to ease my mind a little. Any thoughts would be great - thanks

You need helmet, rego papers, long sleeve pants/top and $45. If you roll out of the staging beams before the green light, then yes you'll false start, but you'll still get an ET, so it's not really a huge mistake to make. The start area is flat, so you don't need your handbrake if you've got your clutch engaged - just drop the clutch on the last yellow light and you should get a good reaction time. To what degree you feather the clutch really depends on the tyres you're running - obviously the better traction you get, the quicker you should let the clutch out. It'll take some practice...i've been a couple of times now and I still can't get it right (shitty tyres don't help though). As for the burnout, it's not really going to make much difference traction wise if you're running street tyres...much of a muchness really. Good luck

I saw the DVD's for the first 2 Powercruise's in QLD the other day and if the one at Eastern Creek is anything like those two, then it'll be awesome. I'll definately be there to spectate.

Thanks for the analogy. Whilst I understand the point you're making, your comparison of helmets to mountaineering ropes is slightly misleading. All racing helmets in Australia are required to be certified by Standards Australia meaning that they adhere to particular quality and safety levels, regardless of price. You're generally not allowed to race without having a Standards Australia certified helmet, whereas I'm guessing you could use any bloody rope you want when mountaineering. From my buying experience, it would appear in most cases that the additional price is more associated with additional features and increased comfort level as opposed to greatly increased safety. For the record, I ended up getting a full face helmet from Motorcycle Accessories Warehouse, Parramatta for $120.

Nah, didn't see it when I was there. There was a couple of nice looking Evo8's behind the workshop that caught my eye though...Just had a look on the Greenline website and they've got a variety of adj cam gear's for around $160-$190 + freight. After seeing the results benm and Jay95R33 got with them, I think I'll invest in one of them once I've done the front/dump pipe...seems like a good bang for buck improvement. muaythailuke, thanks for the advice. The tuner did say that he played around with a few things to try and smooth out the power curve in the mid-range. I'll mention the a/f ratios to him next time I'm down there...hopefully they might have the a/f graph still on file so I can take a look at it.

Thanks for the comments. I had replacing the front/dump pipe and getting a hi flow cat on my list of things to do...just didn't really have the dosh to do it right now (it was either that or get the ebc...I decided to get the ebc cause my bleed valve couldn't hold boost). I'm kinda hungry to get to 200rwkw though, so I might just put the credit card into more hurt town and get the exhaust work done in the next month or so. Can anyone recommend a good exhaust shop in Sydney? Also I've seen the split style dump pipes here. Are these the way to go? Also, how much would an adjustable exhaust cam gear cost approximately? Interesting results you got there - good to see there's a fair improvement with both sets of mods. As for what happened between 6500-7000rpm, that's a bloody good question! I do know that the tuner set the rev limit to just over 7000rpm, but i've got no idea why the curve didn't print out for the last 500rpm.

Had my R33 GTS25t tuned at RUF performance today. I was reasonably happy with the result (185.5rwkw @ 12psi), although I was optimistically hoping for a little more to be honest. Power curve looks good all the way to the rev limit though. Current mods are: Power FC Profec B Spec II EBC (12psi) Blitz LM Intercooler 3" Cat Back Exhaust K&N Panel Filter Not sure what mods to do next - I wouldn't mind having 200+ rwkw

If it is your gear changes that are letting you down, once you get them down pat you should be in mid to high 13's no probs with the 60' times you're pulling. Awesome pics by the way - where did you get them from?