ECR033

Hi All, I've got a few items for sale... Item: Genuine Greddy Intake Plenum - RB25DET Condition:: Excellent, as new Location:: Sydney Price: $950 Payment & Delivery: Direct deposit or cash on pickup; local pickup preferred but will post at buyers expense Contact: PM or reply in this thread Pics: See below Item: Genuine Greddy Throttle Adapter - RB25DET Condition:: Excellent, as new Location:: Sydney Price: $100 Payment & Delivery: Direct deposit or cash on pickup; local pickup preferred but will post at buyers expense Contact: PM or reply in this thread Pics: See below Initially my preference would be to sell both items together - will sell combined for $1000 (will also throw in some polished piping and silicon hoses to suit if both items purchased together). I'll post some pics up tonight. Please PM me or reply in this thread if you have any questions. Cheers, Brenden.

No offense mate, but seriously, 4 threads for the same item within the last 3 days is ridiculous... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=160653 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=160584 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=160529

There are some details regarding a meet point in the Drag Day thread, although I don't think the meet time has been announced yet.

Drag Warz

The whole day was a bit of a dissapointment really...more action on a Wednesday night unfortunately

Happy b'day Chris

Just to make things a little more interesting, what times are people hoping for on the day? Personally, I'd be rapt with anything under an 11.9

And the rest...

Hi All, I've currently got a Jim Berry 'full monty' clutch in my R33 (have had it for close to a year) and have recently noticed a short squeal type noise just as I release the clutch on take off. Anyone got any ideas on what may be causing this? The clutch is definately not slipping and there is no noticeable difference in performance (it's still great). I just get a little paranoid when I start hearing new noises and don't have a clue what's causing them... Any help would be greatly appreciated

Almost - most people don't even notice it

Everything lines up, so I guess we can cross the wrong bracket off the list then... I didn't do any bashing as such though - just fitted it straight on as is. Either that, or I stuffed up something somewhere (doubt it though, as again i'm guessing nothing would line up properly). Regardless, it's done the job the way it is for the last 3 years - no reason to change anything now

Not me personally, but yes the guy I purchased it off had a simple adaptor plate fabricated for it.

Nizmo Freek, it's simple... Obviously the kit can be made to sit higher than the way it appears on my car. Dezz's pic above is a perfect example - don't ask me how he did it though (unless his mounting bracket is different to the one I received - I bought mine brand new 3 years ago, so perhaps the bracket has been revised, or more likely I've got the incorrect bracket or done something incorrect when installing). Without going to the trouble of pulling my front bar off (don't ask, I'd love to help, but I won't do it), I think you've got about as much info as you're going to get to help with your decision. If you're still worried about the return pipe being too low or you're considering substantially lowering your car, then perhaps you should consider a different FMIC.

Just happened to stumble across this thread - better late than never though... The silver 33 on the first page is my car and yes it's a genuine Blitz LM FMIC. Admittedly, I've always thought my FMIC sat a little low, but I've never given it more thought as I personally don't mind the way it looks and as my car isn't particularly low, I vary rarely scrape the return pipe (only done it a couple of times when I wasn't thinking...very minor). I did need to relocate the horn to accomodate the mounting bracket and the cooler is mounted directly to the mounting bracket, so I'm not sure how it's possible to mount it any higher (other than angling the bottom of the FMIC towards the rear of the car). Perhaps I was supplied with the incorrect mounting bracket... Otherwise, my setup looked very similar to the pics posted by Ol Mate above.

I'm using a Turbonetics 40mm on a HKS low-mount manifold (see below)...

Back in the day ~ 185rwkw ET: 12.993 MPH: 104.40 60': 1.777

Yes, we're talking about racing at a drag strip (where else are you going to race?). Obviously if you are competing in a competition and racing the guy in the other lane, then reaction time is very important in winning the race. The topic of this thread doesn't relate to racing or crossing the line first though. It relates to running a high 12 ET, therefore reaction time isn't relevant as your only racing the clock, not the guy in the other lane. For the record, 12.9 is very possible with 185rwkw - I know, I've done it

That's funny, I had to reply to this... R/T has NOTHING to do with your ET. ET is measure once you break the start beam, regardless of when the light goes green.

Too easy - PM sent

If anyone's interested, I have a set of used MT ET Drag Radials which I'm putting up for sale (tyres only) - 255/50/16. I was going to put these in the For Sale thread, but thought I'd give anyone going to the drag day first dibs if they were interested. They're probably 50% used, but still have enough meat left to at least last the drag day or a few street meets. I managed a 1.689 60' on these last time out, so they're still in good nick I'll be away over the weekend, so they'll be available next week. PM me if interested. Cheers, Brenden Edit: $100 for the lot (from memory, paid $260/each brand new)

Just spent the last 30mins or so going through the pics (and stories) in this thread - awesome stuff, thanks for sharing

I also have a dash cluster from a R33 series II - perfect working condition. Located in Sydney, but can post at your expense PM me if interested

Tyres included? If so, what are the make, model and condition of the tyres?

The deposit details are in the first post...