ECR033

You're right, it is a stupid idea Seriously, it will look ridiculous if you ever manage to make it fit...don't ruin your ride.

You're right about there being too many red and white cars in F1 - don't like the chances of them toning down the red though with Vodafone now on board

If I were a betting man, I'd say that the silver R34 was 'LEGACY' - I felt like I was standing still when the the tool flew past me on the M4 late yesterday morn/early arvo, despite the fact that it was pissing down rain and I wasn't exactly going slowly when he passed me (I was sitting on the speed limit)... Also spotted maroon R33 this morning on Fitzwilliam Rd - was quite surprised to see a mature lady driving it lol

This has got to be one of the most idiotic posts I've ever read...wake up to yourself you tool.

Thought it would've been cancelled, so gave it a miss... Did it still go ahead? If so, how was it?

Launching at 4000+ rpm has a lot to do with traction and being able to feather the clutch according to the amount of grip you have to minimise or eliminate wheelspin. I usually launch at around 5000rpm, but in saying that, I use M/T ET radials, have a strong clutch and have 50+ passes under my belt. So in addition to having the right equipment, a lot of it also comes with practice. If it's your first time, I'd suggest that you start off by launching gently at 2000rpm and then gradually build the revs on each run as you get a better feel for the track. Some wheelspin will probably be inevitable, so don't worry too much if you spin the wheels a little, although try to minimise this where possible. As a guide, if you can get a 60' time as close to 2.0 as possible (or better ) then you're doing pretty well.

Trap speed is indicative of power, so you'll usually get similar speeds regardless of how good or bad your launch is. Your 60' times are woeful. If you're serious about improving your times, then you'll need some decent traction off the line. For every 10th you drop in your 60' time, you're roughly going to drop double that at the end of the quarter. Get some decent rubber (eg: M/T ET radials or failing that, at least get some good street tyres) and get your 60' down to at least a 2.0 and you shouldn't have much trouble running low 14s with a bit of practise. Good luck

Did you even read his comment? He wasn't encouraging anyone to do anything - in fact he was doing the complete opposite by implying that people learn from his mistake...

You and me both Ben (despite the fact that a mate of mine will be running his CBR-1000 on Friday ) I'll definately be out there spectating on Friday night

Use some intelligence - how do you think a cop will know a restricted P-plater is driving a vehicle without stopping the car to get the licence details from the driver Huh? They can get that information from your license... Loss of license - these rules are enforced to protect people like you from yourselves. Break the rules, then the punishment is no less than you would deserve Nice

Spotted a Stagea STR-86T (Goldzilla?) parked on Metella Rd, Toongabbie and almost immediately afterwards spotted black R33 ZJB-*** on Cornelia Rd. Both just before 8pm tonight

I've got 255 (17") on the rear - approx $200/corner from Payless Chatswood

Not sure exactly how much they weigh either, but mine also needed 2 of us to lift it so I dare say it would quite likely weigh 50-70kgs (much heavier than a 32 box which I could lift on my own).

I also recently bought a set of Federal SS595's from Payless Tyres in Chatswood - same size as above, same price as above, excellent service and would highly recommend. Despite all the positive comments already posted, I was still pleasantly surprised at how well they perform once I got them fitted on my car (280ish rwkw R33) - they definately exceeded my expectations. Obviously there may be some slightly better performing tyres available, although considering they're likely to be close to double the price (or more) and probably not as durable, I don't think there's many better value for money street tyres available on the market at the moment.

Nice one

No mention of boost controller? Assume you've already got one, but if not, you need to ensure you have something that will reliably hold boost if you're looking to push that amount of power, particularly on std internals... Boost spikes = very bad news on std internals. A few to consider... Greddy Profec B Spec II (I have one of these - works well) Apexi AVCR Turbosmart Eboost II

Been there, done that, know the feeling - better luck next time mate On a brighter note, I managed to nail another 11 which was the aim of the night for me - 11.996 @ 115.50mph. I'm a bit miffed about my mph though. It was consistently down around 115-116mph all night, whereas I was up around 118mph last time out Saw quite a few lines out there as well - fairly good night overall.

Looks like lot's of Skylines having a run tonight - should be good

A lot of people seem to recommend Motul 300v Chrono (10W40), but does anyone use (or has used) Motul 300v Competition (15W50)??? The salesman at my local Autobarn was suggesting that the 300v Competition was probably better suited to my car (approx 285rwkw R33 GTST) than the 300v Chrono... As my understanding of oils is a little basic, I'm curious to understand if there is any difference between the oils (other than the temp ratings) and whether or not there's any benefit to getting the Competition over the Chrono (or vice versa)... Some help to point me in the right direction would great

PM Sent

I have a K&N performance panel filter to suit R33 in very good condition - $70 delivered. Alternatively, I also have an 02 Rush performance panel filter in good condition (needs a clean though) - $50 delivered. PM me if you're interested.

PM sent

Apparantly some bird who makes handbags and sponsors an F1 team...obviously

SOLD - pending payment

Surely someone needs to replace that slipping clutch... Bargain price for a clutch of this quality! $1500 o.n.o