MarcinhoR33

Hopefully it goes good

At first I just sprayed through the airbox onto the sensor and it fixed for a couple of days but then it started cutting out again. So yeah I ended up breaking the original solders unintentionally which I soldered back up and while I was able to get to all the shiny bits inside I flooded it with the CC, put it all back together and it's been fine since. No hint or anything. There's DIY thread on here somewhere and I just followed that.

Had the exact same issue. What I did was clean my afm entirely, took the four screws out and took off where the cable plugs into (realised I shouldn't have done that because it broke the solders) Ended up cleaning it with contact cleaner and resoldering it back together. Took off AAC valve as I found out they fill up with carbon, gave that a hit of contact cleaner and got scrubbing with cotton buds. Unplug the purple and brown plugs near the centre of the firewall and spray some more all over the contacts. Also spray contact cleaner on the afm plug. I basically did them all at the same time so I didn't work out what was the main culprit butit mostly was the afm... good luck

Maybe you're steering rack bushes are shot. My R33 did a similar thing... would just drive straight and the steering wheel would turn to about 2 o'clock.

I understand what you're saying. I understand the costs involved but I'm not doing it for ridiculous money. I got the car cheap and I have access to the necessary parts for not that much either. I've looked and looked but have never seen/found a non turbo manual sedan even turbo models are rare. Thanks for the rest of your answer though you've cleared up some other questions I had.

I have series one R33 sedan non turbo. I want to do a manual conversion. I'm aware of the parts and costs of the conversation but I'm unsure on whether I need to source a sedan manual tail shaft. I'd prefer to put a gtst gearbox in as well. Is there much more involved compared to putting an NA box in? Also is there a difference in between a series one and two box whether it be an NA box or gtst box?

Ok so this morning I checked the spark plugs... they did look pretty new and didn't look like they needed changing. I tried starting the car and nothing happened when I turned the key. Multimeter showed 8.1v. Went to the local mechanic and got him to test two of my available batteries. Both had dropped cells, therefore useless. I bought a brand new 600cca battery. Then I went for a drive to see if it would still cut out. Drove it with overdrive off so it could rev higher to get it hot faster. It drove for ages (approximately about 30-45mins) until it cut out, wouldn't start straight away, waited about 30 seconds and it started up fine, maybe about 100m it cut out again, 30 seconds later I was driving off. After that it was trying to cut out once or twice but I kept pumping the accelerator and the 33 kept going. 20km it cut again. This all seemed to happen when it was warm/normal temperature. Also for as long as I've had it, the idle isn't as smooth as could be. Before I bought it had been sitting for a couple of months, hence the battery situation. Also the fuel may have been sitting for that length of time as well (now filled with fresh premium 98). Not sure if that may have anything to do with it. Everything seems to be pointing towards the CAS as all faulty symptoms I've looked up relate to what I'm experiencing. Now is replacing or checking the CAS something I can do even though I have the same skill as a first year mechanic just starting out? or would it be worth just taking it down to the local mechanic and getting them to do all their tests?

search on here or just in google? I've looked at a few other threads and I think it might have something to do with the battery, alternator, spark plugs (even though apparently mine were replaced before I bought the car), coil pack, AFM, O2 sensor or as you said the CAS. Is there anyway I'd know, or a process of elimination I should follow?

so I have an R33, non turbo auto, sedan, I've only had it for a few days and today on the way to the rego place and back it cut out randomly three times while I was driving. The first time it cut out while I was turning into the car park, I stopped, turned the key to off and straight away turned it on again and it was fine to park. The second time I was driving at about 80km up a hill, it cut out for a bit, then fired up again, then a couple of seconds later it cut again and I had to pull over. I tried to start it again but it wouldn't fire and idle. I went and tested the battery with my multimeter and it was showing 12.8 volts so as wasn't thinking it was an electrical issue. Hopped back in the car and it started up straight away and I took off until about 500m from house where it cut out a third time, same sequence as the second except the road I was on is fairly flat. Before I tried to start it again but it wouldn't fire... now I'm here hoping someone can give me some suggestions. I am new to R33s and Skylines in general. Any help would be appreciated.