nitemare5

a my03 wrx vs a r33 gtst.. interesting comparion, since you've asked this on a skylines forum you're going to get a skyline biased opinion....i dare say you ask this on www.wrx.com.au or www.rexnet.com.au and you'd get the abosolute reverse answer. To be honest only way you'll ever know if you drive both personally and make youre mind up using your experience. Personally speaking, driven both cars, a gtst would have a pretty damn hard time keeping up with it 0-100. the torque down low of the boxer and AWD is hard to beat. down the strip though.. depending on mods... well gtst should be top end, but i dont think a stock gtst vs a my03 would stand a chance; strip, street or track IMO.

they are relatively easy to tune, if you know what you are doing. but it should be done on a dyno with all the proper equipment for it to be safe so best to leave for the professionals. s-afc tunes are cheap anyway

yeah you need to keep the afm

the top of this section there is the "r33 rb30 conversion guide" sticky thread, this should help you with most of your questions.

do a search mate, this has been covered alot.

if my memory serves me correct port 4 is for the external gate

Coming from an MA70 Supra background i know all too well about the dreaded head gasket and what to do when you blow one. It's really important that you make sure your head and block are perfectly straight/flat so get them machined otherwise you'll be blowing more headgaskets in no time. Also, since you've now blown one and need to fix it, why not look at aftermarket metal head gasket options that are available to you, they're infinitely stronger and should you plan on modifying down the track it would be ideal to do it now. Good head/block prep is crucial when fixing blown head gaskets imo.

what waz said is what i feel is generally correct, but but in regards to runnign something like 14 psi on the stock intercooler is something i wouldn't do. It's just to small and will get heat soaked very quickly and doesn't have its same effiency after a few full throttle runs. It's best to stay around 10 psi and no more for daily driving.

are those wheels, starcorp impul's ? had this been manual (i'm not really into conversions sorry) i might've snapped this up. free bump.

here this should help regarding fitting r34 gtr front bar. remember search is your friend http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=57707

I think you need to work first a power target, or some sort of goal you want to achieve with your car. This will determine if you will blow your $5k away, or make you smile.

Those are usually the adjustable type BOV's where the owner/workshop has tightened the BOV so that it will remain shut until higher boost is attained, therefore 'fluttering' at lower rev's and venting the air at higher revs.

how much boost are you making? you won't quite make 1 bar of boost with the restrictor removed (but in some cases ppl have), if not then you'll need to bleed a little more air to make the 1 bar.

fitting an aftermarket plumback will rectify things.

he must've gotten some other things done at the same time, cos i find it hard to believe that with a throttle body relocation he gained 50rwkw with just an extra 2 psi boost. if anything it'd change the response for sure.

thanks for that trust33

the way that kryzsiu has his piping done is the most common way for the r33's (the way that most jap kits have). But if you need to get custom piping fabricated, then you can shorter the piping by getting a 120 degree bend from the pipe that goes right before the plenum. I'm not sure if i explained it right, but im sure sydneykid will jump in and correct me

a bloody awesome result from the gt-ss turbos. i would be interested with someone with the gt-rs turbos to compare results

do a search.

any updates?

interested in the 1/4 mile time and trap speed. will be keeping a close eye on this thread

a cheap and easy way to gain a little extra power by cleaning up the air/fuel ratio. easy to tune, any experienced tuner can tune one of these easily under an hour of dyno time. well worth the $250.

just to try it, just remove the vacuum line going into your stock block off valve and if you have a pod filter it should flutter.

hehe this thread is interesting.

no ones fitted it on yet