Idon28

Had a read of that, these pistons are what I had in mind: http://www.rawbrokerage.com/cp-sc7312-forged-pistons-rb26dett-86-0mm-9-0-1/

Probably a dumb question, a new N1 block comes with an 86mm bore, honed and ready for pistons. will a standard size (86) aftermarket piston fit in no issues without any addition machinework? or are 86mm size aftermarkets machined differently then oem?

Will an OS Giken billet center plate for the RB26 4WD box be the same as the center plate in an ECR33 RB25 gearbox?

As title, anyone know what torque you should use for a 30/26 thats held with RB25 hardware? Should I just use the ARP RB25 torque specs? or something else

The tires I want to run only come in 15". and no worry for the 4WD, its long gone.

Yep.

Will 15" rims clear the rear brakes on an R32 GTR? (no need to worry about the front, only the rear).

I figured. Oddly enough I do own both a GTR and a GTST, when both where fairly stock (no handling mods, just very light engine mods for both). Sure my GTR kicked ass on the strip, but I got faster times in my GTST on the track, and in autoX, the GTR was just a boat. Yeah, I'll keep the attesa and see how it goes. I realize that ATTESA factors for alot more then wheel spin, but It was one of my main concern when pushing 3X the stock power level to the hubs. I'll just play with my suspension to try to get rid of the horrid understeer my GTR was having, probably purchase an ETS controller too.

Been thinking weather or not to ditch my attesa system in the R32 (not a half-ass RWD switch, but full proper deletion). But I intend for my car to be used for time attack, and wonder just how much it actually aids in traction. This is something I'm worried about since I went with an RB30, and it makes a hell of a lot more torque then my 26 lump. The car does have 275/40r17 hoosier A6 tires on it, but just how much is that a limiting factor on the rear wheels before attesa is worth its wieght? Ive driven this car at the track before, but that was with a fairly stock setup, now the setup is a ~650hp RB30 engine, will the attesa make or break this car? or is it something that can be done away with? I wonder whats the forums input who have tracked both GTR (or even high power GTS) on the track, R32 model. Is it worth keeping? Cheers.

If its only the breathers that will pose a problem then its perfect, I run a dry sump, so these breathers are replaced with vacuum relief valves anyways. If other then that its a direct fit, then that answers my questions, thank you for your time.

Quick question, as I have an RB26 head without covers (or any laying around for that matter) and I need to buy some. I would like to run RB20 valve covers, and the front timing cover. Does the RB20 timing cover fit on the RB26's timing backing plate? (the black thing that sits on the front of the head) or do I need to run the RB20's backing plate? Will it screw up the timing? people run 26 valve covers on thier 20s all the time, so I don't think its a problem to put 20 covers on my 26. The only thing that is unclear to me is the front timing cover, weather it fits onto the 26's backing plate or will misalign.

Building my car to full out drag setup, the liberty airshifted sequential seems to be a reasonably priced setup that will perform well, but there is one thing holding me back from purchasing such a setup, and thats that this is a one way transmission. Im not overly familiar with this style of transmission, or the inner workings of sequentials, but if street driving where needed, can this airshift handle low RPM shifts? If I needed to downshift, (say cruising in 5th, wanted to get to 4th or 3rd). would it be possible to use the transmission as it was designed, dropping into neutral, clutch in and going up to the desired gear?) 5th to N, clutch, 1 2 3 4 clutch in? This car will mostly be driving on the drag strip, and not much intention on street driving, but I still need to get to the track, I wonder if anyone has any input if this transmission can handle driving on the street and if even lower gears can be maintained or selected somehow. Thanks for your input.

Is there any advantage or disadvantage from a mechanical standpoint from mounting at an angle?

Question about the ballace tube on the RB26. If we ignore the water ports (bleed points), my understanding that the tube is designed to ballance ports when the ITBs are used. That bieng said, can the tube be done away with and the air holes plugged if using a single throttle body and an aftermarket plenum? my understanding is that airflow is already ballanced through the plenum if a single throttle is used, so the tube is redundant. Anyone have any input on this theory? with a single throttle, can the tube simply be removed? Real estate is a luxoury and the more I can rid off the better. Thank you for your knowledge.

Also, if I would have a RB25DE block from a 4WD GTS, would the RB26 oil an and transmission bolt up to it? Since I already have all the RB26 stuff, it might be cheaper just to bolt in a RB25DE long block if its compatable. again, rebuilding the RB26 is out of the question.

Circumstances have left me with an R33 RB25DET and a R32 GTR shell, and not much cash. I have searched for this before, but couldn't find anything concrete, just people telling not to do this for X reasons, but I have some mechanical questions to do this conversion, and what actually needs to be done. Im set on this swap, and I won't be rebuilding the 26 lump. Question is, the RB25 I have came from a RWD car, so is it a matter of finding a GTST subframe, replacing the GTR subframe with it, and the engine bolts right in? also, is a GTST driveshaft needed? or the RB25 transmission ends up bieng in the same place to use the GTR driveshaft? Last question, If I were to source a 4WD RB25, would it bolt up to the RB26 oilpan and transmission?

Sorry to revive this thread, but I had a further question. I've decided on the gameplan, the RB26 unit won't be going into an R chasis, but into something much lighter, so high horse is no longer a requirement. So with the power goal of 300HP (220KW). which turbo would give me that goal with the earliest fastest spool? the 6258 or 6758? those have the same exhaust housing, just different compressors (the 67 is bigger, and I think that will be needed to achive that power level with a single). Or will that 64 AR housing be way too restrictive, and should I go with the slightly bigger 7064 turbo? (either .83ar or 92ar housing, would they be about the same? with the 92 bieng twin scroll and the 83 bieng single entry?) I would almost think an N/A RB30/26 would be the way to go, but I would like to have some upgradabity and low expense, so I think a turbo is the more logical choice. Thank you.

Hello. I have a rolling 1989 GTR that used to be my track car in decent condition, with the very little rust on the back fenders. I have another gtr and just no time or money for this one, so I've been playing with the idea of selling it, but not sure yet. The chasis is pretty stock, nismo front control arms and a roll cage, interior fully stripped with only 1 seat, manual steering rack. Full complete drivetrain is in the car, and a blown short block (so the oil pan/diff is still in the car, with the bottom end). No cylinder head, intake, exhaust, and accessories. I wonder whats a fair expectation for a price for something like this? Im not 100% on selling, but if the price is right I may list it. Thank you for your inputs.

I never could figure out why, why would nissan mount the 26 unit in the 32 GTR on a slight angle to the right (if looking from the front of the engine). Was there any reasoning from an enigneering point of view? or did they do it just so it doesn't stick out of the engine bay?

Ive been driving my GTR with a failed brake booster, and frankly I like it better then when it had power brakes. It complements the manual rack. I have already converted the clutch, by using a manual one from a GTST, and depowered and gutted my steering rack piston, but I can't find a manual brake cylinder. Did anyone do a manual brake conversion on these cars yet? Does a manual cylinder from any other nissans fit the R32? If there isn't is there any way to remove the booster form the brake assembly? I'm also looking to ditch the ABS system, so it might simplify the master cylinder selection. Any help and insight would be greatly appreciated.

I wonder if anyone has any input on this, anyone done a wet sump based external pump setup on thier cars? Im debating where to place the new oil pickup and pickup passage; further down into the sump, and run a -10 line to my external pump, or just reuse the factory oil pickup and drill and tap a fitting to the oil pump's core plug? (blocking off the original exit to the pump offcoarse). Using the factory pump as an oil outlet would be ideal, but I am worried about that sharp 90 the oil has to take to go out of the plug. The easiest solution is obviosly use a dry sump pump, but Im entrataining the idea of a wet sump system that deletes the factory gerotor. A picture of the oem pump and where I want to place my pump feed line: Some additional pictures of the sump and and block: (pay no attention to the big gaping hole in it, There will be an extension welded on) Thank you.

I'm cleaning up underneath my manifold, mostly all those hoses. One thing I didn't understand on how the system worked in the vacuum chamber. What is the purpose of the two hoses that go from the vacuum chamber to the ballance tube via two pipes? (two metal pipes on either side of the throttle body) Can they be looped or pluged? I'm getting rid of the whole vacuum chamber assembly. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=377547 If I understand correctly, all these pipes do is allow a path from the vac chamber to the throttle body for idle control bypass (valve feeding from intake plenum to throttle body). So in theory they could be plugged? At least thats what Idea I get following the valves i wanted gone.

Thats what I'm getting at. With 3 cylinders per turbo, that makes for 1.3L displacement per turbine. Wont driving a turbine with 2.6L worth of exhaust flow (The whole engine) result in faster spool up on a properly sized turbine as opposed to two small turbos driven by 1.3L each? Imagine twice the exhaust flow for single turbo instead of having to split it up for two. The larger compressor can probably be matched to compensate for the airflow the twins did.

Hello, I am looking to do a single turbo swap for my RB26, but Im not really chasing big power, even stock power or little over stock is okay, Im mainly concerend with responce and having a broad power band. and also the simplicity of a single turbo and accesability appeals to me. (working on the GTR is painfull compared to the GTST) I was wondering how would the RB26 respond to a small single turbo, enough that it will spool very early and not choke out at the redline. Is something like a single GT28 turbo feasable? or even borgwarner's EFR series? (6758 or 7064). Or am I wrong for thinking that a small single setup would be much more responsive then a small twin? (2530s for example). We will asume that the motor is going have a stock head and stock bottom end. Thank you for your time and knowledge.