Matty 31

pete (marvin) is a definite will get him to hook luke / me some cash fri nite at gokarting

URAS R31House kit (copy anyway) way cheaper than you'd get it from R31House (or URAS for that fact) im probably going to use the same kit on my drift car (except modify it for the 4 door)

wtb 2 r32 gtst stockies. dont need tread or centre caps. rims must not be buckled. using them for spares for my trailer (that already has 4 of them on it) contact me via pm

cant see it being a problem heath would love to see FORCFED on the dyno

lol, up early dave agreed, is HR31, also the badging gives it away (as ive not seen anyone go to the attempt of badging an aus 4 door as a Passage GT lol any auto elec gurus want to give me a hand. for some wierd and wacky reason, my brake lights have stopped workin on my trailer. every other function on the 7 pin plug works (parkers, clearance lights, indicators, electric brakes) just not brake lights. couldnt find my test light, so was testing with a multimeter and couldnt get a reading at the plug on the back of the car anyone want to come and suss it out for me? either that or if ya in the area im going to be ripping whats left outta the 31 so feel free to drop by

nah glen, not mine anymore mate. still reppin the SAU stickers kinda scares me but LOL new tow bitch is much better

whats plans for those not going to the cas?

was just about to offer that flick / fishnuts LOL either that or just steal mine and i'll get another from flick btw flick, got Pete (66 skyline gt) wanting one too

think afta workin for a heap of yesterday and not gettin out to pimp round (well, a half lap of town on my way home from dingo woop-woop with the trailer on board) i think im goin to cut some laps. should be tons of hot bitches in town tonite

well that sucks, it didnt quote what i wanted basically in addition, the bit about the seatbelts / seats having to be removed, they forget to mention that you cant just put the bolts back in the seat belt mounting holes. they have to be welded up so that you cant use them again. seems stupid IMO

will do mate, just seen ya post then so i'll get nugz to put ya on the list its a 9am start too guys

RB20DET stock turbo and manifold Condition: Good Notes: Been on this engine the whole time its been in my car (nearly 3 years now). Been running 13psi easily and safely for the last 12 - 18 months. Last time i checked there was no shaft play, but once its detached from the motor i'll double check its condition Reason for sale: Complete upgrade Price: $200 ono (as its got the manifold too) Contact: Via PM

i cant wait to get mine now LOL

i'll flash my lights next time, ask these boys what its like...............they usually recognise the nutter behind the wheel haha

^^^ yeah, thats the problem i got with mine atm. get a bit of dust / glare and you cant read them

spotted pete at the big bucket carwash bedford park something about carwashes and running into pete eh

cheers for the opinions so far heard bad things about autometer gauges going inaccurate, but ive only heard odd stories about that so thats why im asking keep them coming

Basically im asking this just to get a general opinion of what to look at Car: R31 Skyline Sedan Engine: RB20DET Purpose in life: Drift / Circuit Car Current dash arrangement: Factory cluster Apexi RSM on steering column JJR Autogauge Oil pressure, oil temp, water temp and boost gauges in cups hacked into the centre of the dash Problems encountered Speedo doesnt really get used (as im not that fussed) Tacho gets glanced at but is rarely accurate (resistors wired to tacho line to cluster to make work with RB20) Fuel gauge is the only one that really gets any look at in the factory cluster Autogauge gauges are the defi style backlit, which is alright at night, but a prick during the day to read Planned dash in new car Remove factory cluster and cups, no dash loom being run at all to save weight Aluminium / fibreglass panel across dash area housing: RSM in centre (purely so if i want it i do have tacho/speedo displayable) Boost Oil Temp gauge Oil Press gauge Water Temp gauge Fuel Level gauge (as i will be running a fuel cell instead of standard tank) My only preferences Gauges are easy to read day and night Electric gauges only (dont really feel like running mechanical gauges in cabin) Preferably all the same brand / same look Dont want to spend a bomb on gauges (its only a drift / circuit car, so i dont want to spend 2k on 4/5 gauges if avoidable) I have had people tell me to look at autometer, and ive had people steer me away from them. Opinions?

lol dohmar, u crack me up spotted a black 33 with small url sticker across the top of the front window, cc plates and old school volks on south rd at st marys this arvo, bout 3:45, gave a wave (they were heading towards town, i was heading towards mitsu's in the patrol)

as luke said, Autosport or Revolution Racegear Autosport also have a website autosportdirect.com.au

think that the S2 motor is the same as the 31 block, im sure ryan will know the exact bits tho

...............................and get defected for that one im leaving this one alone...........i dont come on enough cruises (mainly cos i cant keep up anymore in the land yacht) so i dont want to make a comment where its not appropriate. i do however see where SLED is coming from............

just get a 31 block LOL

thats nice and all diesel is still $1.42 admittedly since july the price of diesel has come down tho

Wine Red 33, BN kit (or something as massive), chrome sorta wheels on Tapleys at Glenelg North bout lunchtime Was in the ETSA truck heading south