zakalwe

Hi mate, you still have the gearbox? Any idea of freight to Sydney? cheers Tony

WTB 1995 (S1.5) R33 driver's door. Shell preferred, straight. Half the R33s in Sydney are white, so I'm just hoping to get a white door with nice paint and no dings. Or any other colour door really, but white saves me a lot of work. cheers Z

Where do you live, and what colour is the door? cheers Z

SOLD

Hi there, just pulled these off my R33 as the ride was TOO TOUGH for the girls in the passenger seat. I have travelled under 5K km on them and they look as new. Can post them or pick up from 2100 (near Manly). Asking $130 or negotiate - PM me

The ride height is standard. When I bought it it had unmarked stock wheels, but I suspect the previous owner has hit the gutter and bent the front end a bit. I've had a look at whiteline but their camber kit KCA348 is not in the catalog anymore?? It gives +- 1 degree so it should be enough to get both sides to 1.5 deg negative. cheers Z

I just had a wheel alignment done on my stock R33 gtst. They appear to have not adjusted the camber, which I thought was adjustable on this car. The camber is about 55min L and 2.03 deg R... Or is a $55 wheel alignment just toe on the front wheels these days? Z

How much work is installing water-air intercooling in a stock R33 s1.5? I have to cut the front bar to get a fmic in, so maybe water with the heat exchanger where the stock smic goes will be asier, no cutting. The autospeed article http://autospeed.com/A_107760/cms/article.html (might be subscriber only) makes it sound easy (don't they always), and some of the bits are on ebay or at http://www.frozenboost.com. Z

Could we have some detail on the wheels (width) and maybe a better picture of them? Tyre type & size? Ta Z

You has a PM.

when I go to http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/home.html I get this: IPS Driver Error There appears to be an error with the database. You can try to refresh the page by clicking here cheers Z

Hi mate, what do you have in 245/40/17 ? Looking for a pair of Kumhos or similar, specials, need to be in stock. cheers Tony

A buddy's Magna had the same symptoms, it was a large electrical connector that was loose. This connector was round & plugged into the transmission, probably had all the smarts passing through it. Good luck finding it! Z

Looks like Bilsteins are the go, group buy price (2005) $486 x 2 = $972 + fitting which is more than I'd hoped but that's cars. It's done 100,000k; the shocks are over it - and the car feels flabby as you'd expect. What I'm aiming for is stock feel or a little bit tighter. For all the goat tracks in Sydney I drive on. Budget is always a factor , the KYB option looks worth exploring. I've had enough experience of Konis & other adjustables to not go there again. Sydneykid, is the group buy price still valid? Are the Bilsteins valved for the stock spring rates or the springs in the kits? Is there a basic type Bilstein for less money? thanks guys Z

Hi all, R33gts-t daily driver, stock suspension/wheels, ride hieght staying stock due to driveway issues. Shocks need replacing, what's suitable for road use? cheers Z

Originally a Grand Tourer was defined as a car that was suited for long touring trips, roomy enough for 2 people & enough luggage for a week or so. Had to be fast & comfortable for long drives, as opposed to a sports car which is more of a quick accelerating, tight handling car for fun. Back then (60's) a GT would also have a certain style & class, although once the Yanks started putting GT badges on Pontiacs that went out the window. I think the original GT cars were things like Lamborghini 350 GT, Ferrari 330 GTC etc. On this definition, a stock R33 gts-t is a real grand touring car, I've done about 8000 highway kilometers in the 6 months I've owned mine & I've never driven a better open-road car. But a stocker R33 isn't really a sports car, a bit squishy in the handling department & a bit heavy... Z

There are so many factors... When bargaining with a used car dealer, how much discount is available depends on how overpriced the car is - if you go to the Parramatta road thieves, a $20K car is priced at $29K. So if you get it down to $25K, you've still payed $5K over the odds. My limited experience with Northshore Prestige indicated their cars are fairly priced, so there won't be multi thousand dollar discounts. Desperate private sellers are the ones for big discounts... Z

A Continue as I am, but keep an eye on the speeder. If they look dangerous (& just speeding doesn't look dangerous to me) then D - pull over & let them go away. Z

Probably inattention is number 1 danger, but tailgating gets on my wick so badly I just had to go for it. Most tailgating is from morons who've never had to emergency brake ever in their whole lives; they really have no idea what they're doing behind a steering wheel. I don't think anyone can learn to drive properly on the public road. How can you practice stuff like emergency wet braking on the road? How many people discover how suddenly their car slides the first time they hit a gutter? Accident rates would improve if everyone who got a licence had to pass a more advanced car handling test. It might not make a big difference to the petrol heads, but it would bring the drongos up to speed on the realities of how cars behave. I have a real problem with banning young drivers from fast cars. Some kind of advanced licence for driving more powerful cars would suit me - a prawn at the wheel of an XR6T is a lot more dangerous than he is in a Focus. But age neutral, there are plenty of fifty year olds who still can't drive. They should be restricted to 4 cylinder Camrys like all the other beginners. Everyone should have to pass a test every 5 years: my mum is in her late 70's, she will have to pass a test at 85, her first since she got a licence at 17... Of course graded licences are politically incorrect, & they're not revenue neutral, so it'll never happen. Z

Since the models change weekly I can only make broad suggestions! Good Brands - Toshiba & IBM are excellent. Fujitsu, particularly the dearer ones, are very upmarket & stylish. Dell can be good value but tend to show their age i.e. they can get "used looking" quite quickly. A friend just bought an Acer & it's quite a nice device, although questions remain about Acer service & support. I would not buy: Sony Vaio - used to be stylish when they were titanium, now they're plastic... HP/Compaq - surprisingly bad machines from a pair of big names. Expensive & depressingly unreliable. Pioneer & other small time "yum cha" specials - often appear good value but service, particularly O/S, may not exist at all. Anything by Apple - if you are spending someone else's money maybe, otherwise ridiculously dear & the software is too! For myself, I would buy an IBM, & I'd pay for the extended warranty (3 years). If I was spending over $5K I'd have a Fujitsu. As has been mentioned, a laptop will depreciate quickly, although not more quickly than a desktop PC. Make sure you really need one before spending 3 to 5K, & make sure it's a fresh model not something about to be superceded. cheers Z

Andrew, Seems to me the problem has to be internal to the unit - unfortunately you'll have to pull it out & take it to a repairman. I'd suggest finding the Schneider agent & taking it to them, hopefully they'll have circuit diagrams. good luck Z

Hi, Here's where my years of experience as a VL owner are useful - RUST! First knock off any loose bits of rust, flaking paint or lifting underseal. Use a wire brush or a bit of sandpaper. Second, use some rust converter (from the hardware shop) that stops the rust spreading. Let it dry, maybe overnight. Third, a coat of underseal over the area to keep it sealed up. cheers Z

Merli's guide to buying a used Skyline is really, really useful. I forget if he mentioned it but the silicon filled radius rod bushes are often shot & should be replaced ~$250. Look at & drive as many cars as you can, you'll soon be able to separate the dogs from the contenders! If a prospect needs any work, cost it out before making an offer - I just bought an R33 with 'a little scratch' on it, well $1400 later it looks ace but I've painted both rear quarters & both bars! I'm no fan of Turbo Timers - all you need to do is drive quietly for a few minutes before you turn it off, or idle it for a minute. My previous car (VL T) had 200,000km on it and still ran fine with no issues when I sold it, no turbo timers needed. Spend your money on an excellent alarm! cheers Z

I think you could buy a better car than a n/a R33 for 15 large... Something newer & livelier, like an '01 or 2 Pulsar. Maybe not as special as a Skyline but more practical. There are even some Honda's, a '97 Integra can be found at 15K. My 2c anyway! Z

If you have a look at the Fhrx Studios site http://www.fhrxstudios.com/ in the FAQ there's a question about placing tweeters. I followed his advice & put them in the kick panels (in my R33), the stereo sounds great. It's really counter-intuitive but it works! Fhrx obviously knows what he's on about. Z