Sumo

Just because its clicking doesnt mean its all good. It merely lets you know that their is a connection between the key and starter. Cheers Sumo

Thats the problem..... farking bums that think that insted of working to buy a nice car/house/whatever I will steal it..... You dont want to know where I sit when it comes to the jesse kelly case (hang the good for nothin prick). I remember ages ago, some old bloke was having his house broken into in sydney, he used reasonable force (shot the intruder) and then got persecuted for it. It like the law is on the crims side. Cheers Sumo

Dont blame you, I wouldnt want to live in sydney either. Cheers Sumo

Fast clicking sound will be the starter motor solenoid trying to pull in. Have heard it plenty of times. The breakdown comes when it bridges the motor contacts and the bat doesn't have enough charge to spin it so it releases, Then pulls back in and so forth. Cheers Sumo

Need I say more...... We dont need your type on these informative forums. Sumo

Tell me you have never made a mistake before. Maybe there was an apprentice that made a mistake. I think its a poor attitude you hold, Maybe thats why no one answered your question....

If I had customers like you I think I would like to change trades aswell. Getting angry doesn't fix the situation at all, And im sure it was just a honest mistake. I once put a return oil line off a vacuum pump on to an altenator and did not realise it had the slightest crack, and it sprayed oil everywhere. But we were all adults about the situation and it got sorted out. But if your going to act like a child well, the trader will eventually tell you to piss off and take it to a mechanic because its out of his field - whether it is or isn't. Cheers Sumo

Jive, I think you will find that its a spare plug, I have one their that is also not used. *Just checked engine bay, yep, same thing but mine has a plastic clip that holds it to the wheel guard. Cheers Sumo

Don't Lie..... You push your supra

readings at where though? from the back of the alt whilst its running? Check your earth leads, especially around the chassis earth. Do a simple voltage drop test on your earth lead. Same with the positive. When I say voltage drop test - as in from the Pos on the bat to the pos on the alt whilst under significant load. Should have a tolerence of about 0.3-4V if higher fix it, if lower, its good. I could go on for hours, but finding a voltage drop can take ages. Cheers Sumo

Hrmm... Get a bigger mate then... Only one I have needed a puller for was a hino truck, with a huge spline. Cheers Sumo

HAAHAHAHA, That pic rocks

piss off with the spam

Yeah, grab a multimeter. You may be just expiriencing voltage drop where your timer gets its source or earth from. I wouldn't be happy with my alt dropping to dead on 13V with a few of the accessories on. If the battery is fully charged I would be chasing 13.8V. If it is dropping work out how many things you have running (big stereo?) and see if your alt can handle it. The alt I have on the r33 runs at about 14.5 Volts up front, by the time it gets back to the battery in the boot its down to around 14.2-3.

I haven't done a r33 specifically, but there should be a big nut - around 22mm. They sometimes require a bit of persuasion. Once you have undun it, leave the nut on a few threads, otherwise you it comes time to pulling it off you will smack yourself in the face. Start by squirting some cats piss (WD40) on the spline and let it soak, then get your knees under the bottom side and push up and towards, and pull like a catholic school boy on the top. When I flies off you will be glad that the nut on the bottom saved a dent in your forehead. Cheers Sumo

Acid rain? Thats a new one. We must have acid rain here in australia too to explain why it also happens on the EF Falcons. I think you will find its from UV light from the sun. People with plastic lenses should also use "UV Cut" globes. Cheers Matt

ouch man, I hope its only miss firing from the computer...... otherwise you'll need deep deep pockets. Cheers sumo

Seems funny, your battery is generally most stressed when cranking and if their is a crook connection she will be real doughy to start. Sumo

mine is doing the same thing... I would try some redline oil first. Should mask the problems for at least another 10 000kms. Cheers Sumo

another sensor would be an oil pressure switch..... You will have a sensor to power your gauge, but their should be an on/off switch for the ECU and light on the dash. Im only generalising as I dont work on skylines that often and do not know them inside and out. Cheers Sumo

yeah, electrical problems suck next on the list check the resistance of each sensor and make sure they are within spec.... get a pin out map of the ECU and start checking signals - this is very time consuming I know but you'll have to find it one day

well, if you know what your doing and have a test lightyou should be able to pull the plug out of the back of the altenator and turn the key to ignition - and probe the pins in the plug.... Get a mate to sit in the car whilst you do this to see if the battery light comes on - if it does, you know that the regulator is screwed - if it doesnt you know the bulb is screwed. Saves you pulling out the dash, but use just a normal test light with a 4watt globe, not an LED one, and the test light will come on dull and the battery light should nearly be as bright as it normally is. Cheers Sumo

well mate, im no expert but a dry solder joint will work until the conection heats up, heat = resistance, and once the resistance is substantial enough it looses the signal? Its just something else to try Cheers Sumo

Well mate, grab your multimeter and check the voltage at the battery when the car is running the voltage should be around 14.2 volts. The battery light should come on when you go to ignition then go out once started and the alt starts producing charge. The r32 would have a hitachi alt on it? they would be fairly pricey to get a regulator for I would say. Pull the alt off if you cannot determin it and get a auto elec to put it in his test bench and test it, should only cost $5 and he should be able to give you a good idea on whats going on. Cheers Sumo

Hrmm, thats quite a list you have there.... You dont have an immobiliser at all? I have seen a 97 mitsubishi pajero not fire due to a faulty immobiliser. Other then that, maybe its worth sending it to a specialist mob that repair ECU's or just buy a second hand one from a wrecker and try to plug it in when your other one refuses to fire. If your game you could check for dry solder joints, and resolder on the PCB. Your charging system is fine is it? Maybe its not regulating and overcharging? Im not sure how advanced the computers are but they would have some method of spike protection. Its really hard to say without seeing the rig Cheers Sumo