Sumo

sorry bout that jimbo, i hadn't been watching the forums for about that long steve, you gotta get all the info on what that fuse controls first, it might have more then just the interior light on it, then chase it after that. Cheers Sumo

Geez I get sick of smart arses with their "welcome to XX ago" Sumo

Go to the summernats More boganvillians in V8's then you can poke a stick at Cheers Sumo

Check the switch..... they can f*&k up... One way to test it is to bridge the switch, if the light comes on - invest in a new one, if it doesn't look harder Cheers Sumo

Well if its the fuse, the dash lights is on the same circuit as the parkers... So if you blow one, normally the other goes out. someonestolecc : nah, i've seen people blow up the speaker channels, and why the problem above occurs is generally if you dont run an earth through the chassis, but insted use the one in the plug. The one in the plug is sometimes used as a "dimmer" wire, so that when you turn your parkers on it changes its polarity Cheers Sumo

Mate, have your stereo pulled out and go see an auto elec, they should not need more the 10 minutes to tell you whats wrong..... Just explain the symtoms, and they should be able to sort things out. It is a common problem with people that install their own stereos. I have seen a few blown up stereos from incorrect installation - just because people think they can save a few dollars by doing it themselves. Cheers Sumo

my rheostat was like a $2 dick smith item Cheers Sumo

Thats another good point SKYL9, that rheostat might have a wire off it. BlackR33, Yes, first time it goes to blow a fuse, it will turn off for a couple of seconds - once blown it will not go out. Use a test light for fuses, And yes, I did the same thing when I first did my stereo. I had no interior light/dash light/cigarette light Cheers Sumo

That smell your talking about sounds like what we call the "dollar smell" It usually means it costs lots of $$$ to fix. If you do keep running the car with the starter engaged, most likely the starter will throw her legs outta bed (her windings) I see the other blokes were doing a push button start switch "mod"... You could put a start switch in over the ignition (so that it can only be started when the key is at ignition) and bypass that wire that may be melted, and wire in a relay to take the soleniod load. Will send you an email if you like with a picture of how to do it. Cheers Sumo

I got 6x9's in the rear with a custom shelf.... They sound good. And are only powered off a 200w 2 channel kenwood amp. Cheers Sumo

If Im thinking about the same thing which is AC ripple, The whine is made from the alternator - with revs it should change the pitch of the whine? Normally on your bosch gear, they have a capacitor that goes to one of the positive poles of the alt. As for your Hitachi gear - im am not to sure. Cheers Sumo

Very common problem for home stereo installs. People get the dimmer wire mixed up with the Earth..... When the parkers are off its an earth, when they get switched on - its alive, and will throw the fuse. There are 3 fuse panels in the R33, when I blew mine Im sure I replaced one in the boot. Cheers Sumo

ok then, will price it today Cheers Sumo

Cheers GIGOLO, I will check them out for sure. Sumo

Anyone know where I might find some? I was thinking possibly a front cut? Cheers Sumo

Hi all, im chasing the metal bracket that the stereo mounts into, as my car was missing all this from japan and possibly the wallet holder that goes underneath... but that is not a necessity Cheers Sumo

Scooby_Steve: your car doesn't have an aftermarket immobiliser by any chance? I have seen a few cars with problems like you describe, e.g. once hot the car wont start - I can range from things like crank angle sensors to the EFI module that controls the spark/ fuel. In factory alarm setups, the immobiliser module acctually has the EFI module by the balls, and if it doesn't give the EFI module the green light, then the car will not fire. Cheers Sumo

I found that using a good quality oil made my lifter go quite. Motul Turbolight was the oil that fixed the tap tap tap

I give it my thumbs up! Cheers Sumo

I honesty think that you may have a leak in the intake manifold... The old trick is to spray a bit of aerostart around the manifold (or where ever you may think its leaking) and see if the idle changes - if it revs up you've found it, if it doesn't, back to the drawing board....... You have to eliminate all the possibilities Cheers Sumo

That was from my local Gates stockists. We deal with them alot, So i could not tell you if that was RRP or the price he gave me.

I concur with Mr-Fanny. I use Motul turbolight (next change im going to motul 6100) and my lifters have completely stopped tap dancing. Nothing short of pleased with this product. Cheers Sumo

Cam Belt was worth around $59... Cheers Sumo

Yeah, You can get cam belts to suit the r33 from aftermarket suppliers. E.g. Anyone who stocks Gates belts and Hoses And bearings? well I haven't seen the idler for the 33, but I assume you would only have to press a bearing out and press a new one in? Any bearing stockist usually have a good range of NSK. Cheers Sumo

A tune? Replace Plugs/Oil/Fuel filter/Air filter/reset the computer?/give your tail shaft a grease.... A tune isn't much for a general workshop.... But a EMS tune is a whole different scenario Sumo