Sumo

Altenaters do not have magnets in them, The rotor has a copper coil in it which the regulator controls the field current, the rotors usually draw a maximum of 4 amps, which depending on how the stator is wound will determin the output of it. Next point is, an alternator's output is never constant, for instance a 100amp altenator about 70% of the time will probably be putting out 15amps just to run your accessories/ign/fuel pump. Once a car is started it no longer relies on the battery to run the accessories - this is all done via the alt. Especially on skylines where the battery is in the boot (got voltage drop?). Your electrical system loves 14.5v more so then 12v. I know this is nit picking stuff but say headlamps for instance at higher voltage are not only brighter, but drag less current. Same with Thermo's and the like. Light Globes example. 100w / 12v = 8.3amps 100w / 14.5v = 6.89amps This is valid accross the board with most cars electrical accessories. Cheers Sumo

No, The O2 sensor only "trims" the mixture by a small percentage - It does not have full control over the mixtures. Cheers Sumo

My G/box was full of oil when I pulled it out, but it took 2 of us to lift it. I would definatly say that their 70 would be close to the mark. Cheers Sumo

Its very hard to try and diagnose over the internet. But I doubt it would be an ignition system problem. You have 6 coilpacks and I would think that it would be rare to lose all six at once. I would be looking at the air side of things - e.g. Air Flow Meter, BOV leaking. Have you got a gauge monitoring your boost pressure in your intake manifold? Just check it to see what may be going on. Its possible the timing has adjusted? Could be one of many things. Cheers Sumo

The car would look at its other inputs... e.g. Coolant Temp, RPM and put in a pre-calculated amount of fuel. The Fuel map in the ECU would tell it the values - and since your off boost, it should be able to get away with it a bit. Cars do have to have a bit of tolerence if they lose a sensor, they may not run right - but they should be able to let you slowly drive home. Cheers Sumo

02 Sensors only "Trim" your fuel mixture. I would be inclinded to be looking at the Ignition system (black smoke indicating unburnt/rich fuel). But thats not to say its not an injector problem. Biggest thing is to test things when you can replicate the problem - hence the use of dyno's for diagnosis. Its one of those things - to the untrained eye you could spend a long time looking for it. Cheers Sumo

Umm, No. Running rich wont touch your Idle speed controller. On my R33 the throttle body gets a gummy type build up on it. Cheers Sumo P.S. A vacuum leak will affect your idle.

Im with wrxhoon in this one. In the r33 wiring diagrams I have seen - I haven't came across a immobiliser (but thats not to say yours didnt come with one) With alarms and immobilisers pay someone who knows what they are doing - im an auto elec and the amount of shit alarm setups that take no longer then 5 mins to have a car running is unbelievable. Having all the wiring under the drivers side dash means a theif doesn't have to go looking. And also, the amount of cheap immobiliser systems that fail is reassurance to do your homework and get a good one. Anyone who recommends your cheap strathfield or night vision varieties obviously hasn't had much to do with alarms. Cheers Sumo

Turn on your parker lights, and see if that will blow the fuse - If so, run the black wire coming out of the stereo to a proper earth (e.g. under a screw into the metal dash support.) Common problem for lots of cars with people not knowing what they are doing - or 240v elecs that think the green wire means earth. Cheers Sumo

Is it a H1 replacement xenon globe (should have a metal clip) or is it a plastic base? Which requires a half twist. Cheers Sumoo

You'll get extra for that blue glow Seriously tho, I wouldn't expect to get $18000 for my series 2 96 GTST, I think realistically I would get $16-17000 odd. Cheers Sumo

Im too jewish to buy a copy of BF2.... I played the demo heaps and I bought BF1942 when it was like $45 Ill wait a little longer... Cheers Sumo

Take it to the track..... Only way to sort it out.

Well the closest you will get to a factory car in AU with this setup would be to go and have a look at how the supra's do it. Its probably effective if the car came like that from the factory, but the expense to do it as an aftermarket project would be a bit over the top for the results achieved I would think. This is where people settle for what best suits their driving habits. Biggest thing I find when you get away from using factory ECU's and such, you're throwing away millions of dollars worth of R&D to lose your economy idle ups and such. Plus then you have blokes that have to work on a non standard car and troubleshoot blindly. Cheers Sumo

Bwhahahah, Good one. If your going to pull the -ve pulse from the ECU be very very careful. You get the wrong wire you will end up with bigger problems then deciding where the hell you are going to mount a tacho that is for wank value anyways. Cheers Sumo

Sounds like a power supply problem. Check the connections at the battery, check the earth point in the boot, give it a clean with a file if you want to be sure. Then have a look at the earth points on the engine block. Check out the power supply cable on the starter and the connection going to the fuse panel. Then you can start doing voltage drop tests, from the battery to the starter etc. It can even come down to a crook end crimped onto you main power lead. Cheers Sumo

How many mates in the trade do you have? I would do a quick check with a diagnostic tool and see if it brings up any errors. A diagnostic tool will do a simple check as it may be a faulty sensor, and there are quite a few that make up the attessa system. Im not to sure what a rebuild is worth but check the simple stuff first. Cheers Sumo

If it is showing excessive heat, that usually tells you the car is running excessivly rich. This can be due to a faulty O2 sensor, or a faulty coolant temp sensor. Cheers Sumo

ahhh nice, I was wondering what that second plug was for on the Throttle body. Its to detect that you want to go flat out as soon as you pump the accelerator.... Cheers Sumo

Skybee is on the money.

Most loans will require Full Comp insurance, and if your young it can be around the $4000 mark. Save your pennies, and buy a car you can afford. Skylines are not exactly cheap to maintain if something does arise. Cheers Sumo

Well it sounds like a dud O2 sensor. You will find things like fuel economy will go down, it will run fairly rich. Most O2 sensors have a heating element in them. Cheers Sumo

As far as I know its illegal to remove factory fitted saftey equipment. Cheers Sumo

Take it to a workshop with a 4 gas analyser, They should be able to work out economy issues if they are competent. Cheers Sumo

Anyone else see that supercheap auto add while the bathurst 1000 was on with the footage of the r32 gtr sliding off into the wall on the right hand side? where about can I get my hands on some more of that footage? Bit torrent? Cheers Sumo