KittoRB25

Reviving a necro thread. went go a safe tune at 18psi and walked away with 322 RWKW on 98

Hey hey hey, still one more here that’s in Alice.

Air temp intake temp (after intercooler). Nah genuine SARD and havnt had figures yet. Car has been parked up since after Red Center Nats #02, bought a house and a motorcycle and at long last got of my ass to drain the tank of old fuel before i send it south next month. Yes thats a long ass siphon hose

Swirl pot install caution Good evening all, About to do a 2.3L swirl pot install on a R33 Gtst, already have the hardwear, running a single Bosch 044 pump with a Bosh 040 lift pump. Now the install itself if got down to a T, however upon further reasearch on the UK GTR forum's, it's been mentioned about using a larger return line from the swirl to the main tank, in order to prevent the swirl pot from cracking. Any substance to this claim as I'd assure that even by going on something like a -8 that the size of the connection on the fuel sender would still restrict it anyway. Essentally my goal is to do this install without the need to modify the existing sender. All other aspects seem straightforward enough but this is the only thing that has me hesitating. If anyones fitted a swirl to a 33 and modified the sender any info would be appreciated *for the record the same forums said that mine line from lift to swirl and swirl to fuel rails would be fine on the current diameter.

Just closing this off. Conclusion raised is leaning on misstune, brought to light by the replacement of a sensor that must of been faulty at the time of tune.

Not 21,000KMs i meant actually less than 30KM's. Yes checked map sensor and heat range was 6, had 5s in previously and am waiting for some new parts to arrive. Ive put 5s back in it (new ones) as im under that feeling that they were barely managing with a 5 heat range. Ill keep it posted on re start.

Cheers, taken off and no audible sound from the CAS, also checked on the Ecu and it's providing a response to the ecu.

So any help appreciated guys, There's countless posts on misfiring on this site and I've viewed most of the ones I've found, to no avail. Engine details: RB25DET S1.5, ECU is Haltech E11V2, running a MAFless tune, Garrett GT3582R, Upgraded Intercooler, GFB manual Boost controller, Tial EWG 63mm, Nismo 740cc injectors, 3BAR MAP sensor, Bosch 040 fuel pump, Sard adjustable fuel reg (with gauge (set at 55psi) HKS Oil cooler and remote Oil filter, Splitfire Coils, NGK Copper plugs gapped at .8 with 21KMs on them. So car developed a missfire last week, over fueling, hesitating at all operating temps (biggest from TPS 0 to >2) from startup to shut down with a rich and lean pops in exhaust, surging during acelleration and cruising. Checked usual culprits in order; Coils, Plugs, Tune re install, Vacume and hoses, Fuel Reg, Compression test, Injectors Flow tested and inspected All okay, TPS sensor, Coolant temp sensor, Air Temp sensor, MAP sensor, related wiring, AAC valve, replaced Fuel filter, and ECU checks out. Nowe I havnt done the CAS, as I was under impression that a faulty cas will cause problems with starting, and it starts like nothings wrong. The BOV has been on for 4 years (was on car when I got it) and never had an issue with it before) have checked to make shure Diaphragm in Fuel reg isn't totalled and it's all fine. And no it hasn't had an o2 sensor on the exhaust (ecu) since acquiring it. The air fuel mix at idle is around 10.8:1 richining on throttle depress. All sensor have been tested with Multimeter and viewing on the Ecu both are in sync. Cars in Red Center Nats in a month so would like to have it run by then. Any help appreciated

So here's one I havn't seen before, Multiple gauge failure on the standard R33 GTST S1 dash cluster, No boost gauge (Has aftermarket fitted and plumbing is still attached to standard as well as aftermarket) No oil pressure gauge (again has aftermarket fitted but Havn't checked connection's to standard) No fuel reading (Has Hi flow fuel pump fitted) Any opinions on whether it could be? Possibly one single cause or just a case of 3 seperate causes? I have checked to make shure all plugs are plugged into the dash and all ok. Obviously considering I have the after market gauges working the fuel gauge is currently my biggest priority, but dont want to pull the fuel sender out if it could possibly be a much simpler issue. Also not car is not running the factory ECU, It's running purley on a Haltech waying up wether this too could be a cause of the problem. Otherwise no other auto electrical issues. Any help would be appreciated.