David Kemps

if anyone knows if those ftp sites are still up from people at skylinesaustralia then ill just upload them there. Dave

ive got both, if someone has gotta ftp site or something i can upload them both, cant be bothered with those limited downloads sites. Dave

it's not really a big deal drilling into the plastic interior underneath the pillar mount anyway, just get another part from a wrecker first if you're that worried. the greddy pillar mounts are great, shaped for your car and look professional not like the universal crap ones. Dave

do any of you guys have more than 700mb space on your servers? cause a guy i know has the original japanese r33 manual the FULL workshop manual not just the engine section.

hey man, i know it sucks, my car got broken into a few weeks ago, just hate it how people can do such things. do you have insurance? i know it won't cover the time and effort and pain of finding a new car but at least it's a start. Dave

ok, bled again with new fluid and bleeder kit, much easier and better DEFINATELY no air in the lines now, but still pedal feels like crap, goes down heaps before working, at least it does work now i guess. drove the car, is driveable and does stop fine just not that great yet, can reach the floor. Any other ideas anyone?

nah i havent changed anything apart from the pads and fluid, have got some new fluid today and a brake bleeding kit so hopefully that will fix it.

Changed brake pads, tried to bleed brakes using the sequence specified in the manual, back left, back right, front left, front right, pedal goes down to the floor when pushed, seems like heaps of air in the system still. Repeated 3 times, in different sequences, pedal is getting better but not safe enough to drive. QUESTIONS Any tips for non-abs gts25t r33? Do you bleed the nipple on the master cylinder? (non-abs) Anyone else have any problems? This is really annoying me, gonna buy some cheaper fluid tomorrow to try again just to get it going cause i just wasted 1 litre of my good stuff. PS: I've bleed brakes in cars heaps of times, no problems, but not this car before so really don't think its my technique. Don't wanna spend the money taking it to a shop, especially for a easy thing like this. Dave

I have all the nissan fast files if you want it as long as the upload speed is fast enough.

tried to upload but the 300 odd mb said it would take 3 days!

10 points to predator, yep my friend didn't use a socket set each time and it wasn't all the way in on the plugs. sorry for wasting your time!

ok, a little background info to help you. the car is a 180sx s13 1991. it was manual, converted to automatic - working fine with stock ecu for about 1.5 years. when you plug in the power fc, the car will not start and the fuel pump won't prime or run. we believe it is because the power fc thinks the water temperature sensor is faulty. in the menu it shows that the Water temperature sensor has a voltage or 4.88volts when cold. so i plug in the standard ecu and my consult board, the water temperature sensor is working fine, showing the correct temperature. ok so now the car is heated up with the water temperature around 60degrees. we plug back in the power fc and sure enough still 4.88 volts for the water temperature sensor. obvously the power is not even reading it properly. the power fc shows this voltage as an incorrect voltage, meaning it thinks the sensor is broken, it definately is not. my guesses: -power fc is faulty -power fc is wrong model (there are 3 or 4 models for the s13 alone) -standard ecu was the wrong one for the model and sensor have been changed to match. (the sensors were changed in later models) NOPE looked on fast and websites and it is the right ecu for the car. also checked the model of the power fc out and it is the correct model. we are stumped. also when we plugged in the power fc the first time, even when we pushed the throttle the TPS voltage would not change, the second time it was working fine, which makes me lean towards faulty power fc. this power fc has been bought new ordered from apexi japan.

haha whoops just checked do have s13, s14 and s15 this is what i have, if anyone want it tell me and ill upload it. nissan fast evo4 workshop manual evo6 workshop manual evo7 workshop manual evo8 workshop manual s13 workshop manual s14 workshop manual s15 workshop manual datalogit software 350z workshop manual power fc - powerexcel software heaps of other apexi stuff

its actually on a s13 with sr20det but think it would be similar. the problem is the fuel pump i think, its not priming when you turn the key on, and not running at all. even when you directly wire it into 12volts and it runs still is not starting, my friend seems to think the power fc has to "see" the fuel pump. anyone know the water temp sensor voltage when cold?

can someone please put s14 and s15 on there. thanks guys

my mates car is a converted automatic, we installed the power fc and its not working. aside from that, does anyone know the rough voltage of the water temp sensor on an r33 or r32, its reading about 4 volts at cold and seems a bit high. Dave

has anyone tried using a power fc on a converted automatic to manual? does this work ok.

Thanks guys. Can the whiteline adjustables be turned up stiffer than the non-adjustables or not? I looked on the whiteline website and they have: FRONT 24mm adjustable 27mm non-adjustable REAR 22mm adjustable 22mm non-adjustable It leads me to think the stiffess swaybars to buy would be: FRONT 27mm non-adjustable REAR 22mm adjustable What do you guys think?

Hey guys, I've got a R33 Gts25t Suspension/handling mods: -Tein HA's 10kg front, 8kg back -9 inch wide 17's -front strutbrace Next on List -Hicas lock bar -whiteline swaybars -pineapples/solid mounts After putting in the HA's the car handles much better, but still find it rolls too much for my liking. I'm going to the track in about 2 months, just wanting some advice about stopping this roll. I want to get whiteline swaybars, was considering 27mm front, 22mm back, just wondering, who has these and does it really stop the car rolling that much. I mean, I would have thought the car would sit flat with the hard springs on it, was surprised when it still rolled. (pushing pretty hard) Any other tips to get the car sitting flat, the car has great grip at the moment, just wanting it to sit flatter, don't want to get swaybars and find they aren't good enough. I want to be able to go hardout around the track on occasional trackdays without the car rolling around, maybe even a little bit of drifting. Sydneykid - I know you don't like jap shocks, but they were cheap so I got them and have been impressed, I do like them hard, mostly drive around with them on half, now just want to add to the coilovers with other improved handling parts. Sorry if the post doesn't make sense, too tired!haha Oh and are the adjustable swaybars, although smaller diameter still can be adjusted to be more stiff than the biggest non-adjustable one? or not? Dave

you can feel it when its enough. cant you? tighten you strut brace bolts as well

Are the outlets 3" or 2.5"? Dave

Would you ship to New Zealand? How much would freight be? Dave

thanks a lot for that, my friend (an electronics engineer) made up a map sensor actuated boost controller, but i connected it to the standard solenoid in the standard position and nothing changed. now I will connect it in the way you have described and it should work, if it doesn't i will definately buy the jaycar kit. thanks

thanks. In looking at the picture it looks like the top port of the solinoid is to the intake, and the bottom is t-piece to the actuator and blow off valve. is this correct? how is this different from stock?I'm looking at my engine still trying to work out. Another question, so the solinoid is fully open at max boost, fully closed at minimum boost? Also, can you change the quickness it takes for the boost to build up with the jarcar kit? or is it to do with how you plumb the solinoid in? thanks

I know all rwd nissans are the same not sure for gtr's though sorry