The Alchemist

pHAT r32: WHO CARES WHAT THEY LOOK LIKE LOL heres what u have to look foward to once they are set up: after fitting the cams and doing a base run at zero zero cam setting I spent about 3 hours tuning the gears alone and achieved 20kw at the top end, 12% more torque over the entire rev range (thing about that for a sec) and spooled the turboes up 500rpm earlier> try 14PSI at 3400rpm...not bad for 3 hours dyno time and a few burnt fingers Well worth while getting them set up rather than just looking at them. My settings finished on 4 degree retarded on the exh and 2 degree adv on the inlet. The main point here is the lobe center angle has been increased by 6 degrees thus increasing cylinder filling efficiency. Mike

I'll race you mate ....yes it's been a long journey Ronin....work comes first for me unfortunately...thats the main reason. Just brought my new business, its a diesel,turbo, performance dyno workshop...what a combo We have a dyno dynamics dyno which I have given a birthday too when I moved in! I'll be doing my own tuning and will publish the results here on this thread. Mike

HI THERE guys, got my engine back from the machinists this week, time to put it all back together and put it back in the hole with the new HKS GT-SS turboes will keep y'all posted with the progress and most importantly the power.... Mike

stripped the engine today and found ..........2 screws loose in the back of the oil pump ....surprise surprise!...Also a degree of blow by past the rings is evident so I guess they have gone soft...this could be costing be a small amount of power I guess....anyways its one of those just in time jobs I think. Could have been a blown engine if I had put those HKS GT-SS turboes on and just ran it like that..... MIke

Hi there Ronin....good to see the e-mail notification still works after a few months. Well this weekend I pulled the engine from my GTR to prep it for the new HKS GT-ss turboes and also to see why/where the power has gone. As per my last posts in this thread my GTR with almost identical mods to yours only made 207rwkw on a Dyno Dynamics dyno...weird. The turboes were fine, only done 35000km since previous owner had them rebuilt with 360 thrusts. No obvious leaks around the manifolds either. Anyway its sitting on the workshop floor at the mo' and will be stipped down tomorrow and we'll see what we find....keep you posted. Mike in NZ

I use the tech edge unit, built it myself...works very well indeed...even logs onto my laptop.....secret is mounting it in a decent length pipe to avoid reverson causing a "lean" looking mixture.

tps voltage set wrong, should be under 0.5V...also check TPS idle switch if you still have one.....

yeah crack at 600 plus horse

as far as I'm aware the knock sensor retards timing when it detects knock...it does not cause the engine to "cut" out. A "cut" could be caused by an ignition missfire from a bad coil(s) , very likely, or an AFM voltage drop out which happens when they age and the power regulator that holds the voltage constant across the AFM sensor drops out. This causes a 0 (zero) voltage reading and an instant engine cut out. Can easily be seen happening with a scope on the signal return for your AFM. Worth checking anyways.. Mike

Hi, I have a similar problem, working on a car today , dyno graph shown, its a RB20 with a front mount and big bore and a greedy BOV ext venting and apart from that quite stock. Fuel system has been checked through to the injectors and Coils are all good with new spark plugs. Inlet manifold has also been removed and new gaskets fitted right through...most were leaking ... TURBO UPGRADE: T3 core with a TO4E comp wheel in a TO4B comp cover 0.6 A/R, stf turbine housing machine to fit T3 core steel turbine wheel , 360 thrust. Thing is car makes boost ok, but a bit laggy. And where there is boost > torque usually follows in line. As you can see by the dyno graphs torque doesn't follow until very late in the rev range .....whats up ? :Oops:

it can be arranged... will try to post it tomorrow....

just dynoed a R32 auto last week...had a T3 core conversion though and a front mount, made 148rwkw at 10psi boost....hope this helps... Mike

no, on cold start the PFC usually adds up to 10 degrees timing then gradually reduces it down to 20 ......

Cam angle sensor ....just scoped my mates 300ZX with similar probs to your decriptions..... the 120 degree signal was dropping out causing earratic timing problems...not enough to cause a hard fault in the Ecu but none the less enough to cause the rough running. my two cents... if in doubt swap it with a mates and see if the symptoms resolve, or get a tech to scope the CAS outputs and the fault will stand out a mile !! Mike

also check out the cam angle sensor...get a tech to scope pins 1 & 2 on the 4 pin plug. pin 2 is the 1 degree signal & pin 1 is the 120 degree signal. 0 - 5v square wave. Pin 3 is 12v pin4 is ground....I think I just scoped my mates 300ZX cam angle sensor and found 2 of the 6 120 degree signals dropping out. This won't be enough to cause a hard fault code in the ECU but will make the engine run very rough at odd times. We will be replacing it with a friends good CAS and verify that its indeed the problem .. regards Mike

Hi Amura & SK.....you're never gonna believe this but I took all the inlet tubing off my GTR today and removed the front alloy bend off the front turbo so I could measure the compressor wheel etc etc .....The outer hole size was 52mm with a large chamfer down to approx 43mm inducer which I believe is the standard size for a GTR comp wheel. Larger comp wheels are more like 46 or 48mm. Is this correct SK?? The previous owner said it was a steel wheeled turbine/ 360 degree bearing/ and a larger comp wheel. Guess he was mistaken...he wasn't very engine literit either This means that my GTR is more within "normal" power range for the mods done I guess which is a good thing!! Just thought I'd let you know..... Mike

hey SK, since i have tweaked the cam timing I'm sure I can hear a whistle when I'm coming on to boost that I hadn't noticed before......I'm going to check it again this weekend, sounds like a leak of some sort but am unsure on where its coming from. The car idles like a stockie with a 13.5:1 steady AF ratio, so I'm assuming in won't be on the inlet vacuum side. Will investigate exhuast and maybe the stock blowoff valves...can these leak air??? regards Mike

oh well the turboes are coming off! bugger it !!! I need to have a look at whats happening in there.

mine was a bit lumpy too, Amaru...all it needed with a richer AFM. I tweaked mine to 13.8 to 13.5 : 1 and its fine. what RWKW did you get mate? I guess you;ve been reading my posts....do you have std turboes? Mike

went back out to work today and had another go, engine did not like another 2 Deg inlet adv at all> made no axtra power or torque so I set it back to 2 Deg. tweaked upper end timing, got 207 rwkw now. Also tried a bit more timing in the midrange but achieved no noticable increases so they went back to where they were as well. Drove the car home tonight and sweet mary! that 10 to 12 % more torque felt like a freight train!!!!!! You'd have thought the car gained another 20 or 40 % if you hadn't have seen it on the Dyno screen !!!!! I'm very pleased with the results and would highly recommend Cam wheels to anyone Still very interested SK to hear you comments from my last post, esp the 4th gear vs 3rd gear thing. regards Mike

knock levels never go above 20, 96 octane petrol, runs all done in 4th gear not third..... why third gear ??? I always thought 4th was 1:1 and thats what you used on the dyno??? Haven't done a leak down test .... plugs all look good across the six except the 2 closest to the PCV valve which are a bit sooty thats all. I haven't got around to installing a catch can yet.....its on my list thanks again SK. Mike

well GTR's are pretty scarce around here I do know one one other...wonder if it worth dynoing his car just for the experiment.

oh , and the boost creep held flatter before creeping up, delayed I guess you could say, this helped my the top end look more respectable. Could the dyno possibly be set up wrong or in need of recalibration? Given the AFM voltage perhaps the car is making that power and the dyno is out of whack? I also have a set of HKS dumps sitting at home here with my GT-SS kit, perhaps its worth the experiment to put those in and mill out the wastegate holes while the turboes are off. The GT-SS kit won't be going on until I rebuild the engine you see. Mike

hey SK thanks for that , just been up at the work shop trying cam settings and got back to find your reply Cams are tomei 260/260 9.2mm, cat free, wastegate has not been changed according to prior owners knowledge, AFR at 12:1 or close from 4000rpm onwards, PFC with datalogit laptop software primo setup here's how it went: see attachment I had read prior to this, other posts suggesting +2 inl and -4 exhuast. I did the exh first but went +4 just to see what happened and promptly lost 35 kw off the top end and got 2nd degree burns for my efforts of the radiator mmm not good. I then went -4 on the exhaust only and the car immediatley livened up and the torque came in earlier. I then added +2 on the inlet and with a few minor timing changes up the top end acheived this result : see attachment. I called it a day after that but may add some more on the inlet side tomorrow. what do you think?

try setting it back to "0" / "0"to start with then retard the inlet ( this will move the torque upwards in the mid to top range) and adv the exhuast ( this will widen the lobe centres given a broader torque delivery0 THATS THE THEORY ANYWAYS I'm off to the dyno tomorrow for some extensive testing on my own GTR so I'll let you know my results if you like. Mike