The Alchemist

No I'm afraid not mate....see if you can borrow one from someone. rather than buy a commander save a bit extra and contact the people at FC-Datalogit. They have made a software interface that talks to the PFC just like the professional tuning software the Japs have...except you can read this one Have a look at the site... http://www.fc-datalogit.co.nz/ I got one and its the best thing I ever did!!!!! heaps easier and more practical than the commander to use and it does full datalogging similar a MOTEC...

I beg your pardon prime minister was thinking of the Afc... duh! Ok .... the PFC need to be leaned out in the top end over 4000rpm and load point 12,13,14 & 15 from the base PFC map. I guess this would be almost standard fare for an experienced tuner like the one you went to , so he/she would know this and do it automatically so to speak. Which explains why it was done so quickly However, like I said in my earlier post I found that the low midrange was very lean on the std map at 14.3:1 just coming on to boost. this made the car really soft off boost and I found myself having to floor it to get boost and hence power when going up even moderate inclines... sound familar? Richening this up did wonders! If you like you can send me the numbers off your fuel map in a grid arrangement from 2000 to 4500 rpm and from load point 5 through to 11. This is the critcal area when tuning for nice transitions between boost and off boost and hence overall drivability.. This type of tuning seems to be best done and the road with a wide band AFR meter so you can feel the effects of your changes, which is what I did. MIke

sorry for this question but why when you have a PFC did you install an AVC-R when its just a piggy back computor for fuel....the PFC can make all the changes you need can't it? If you have a fully mappable computor like the PFC there is no need for an AVC-R??????? before I go any further I need to confirm why you installed this? MIke

why keep on guessing by replacing this and replacing that???? You need to systimatically go through all the vacuum piping to and from the AAC valve & idle control solenoid and clamp them off with a brake line clamp and see if this changes the fast idle. Simple. If the idle does not change then its something else like a inlet manifold gasket blown out (very common in older skylines). This can be confirmed with the ol can of break disc cleaner in an aerosol can. Give it a squirt alone the inlet manifold right against the cylinder head and if the gasket is gone, broken, blown out, it will get sucked in and the idle will stumble as it burns the break cleaner fluid. Give that a go. Changing the O2 sensor just for the sake of it could well be a waste of your money, besides, even if it is stuffed that won't make your idle jump up & down like that. MIke

gidday, Mike in NZ gere , i too have R 32 GTR with a PFC.....Has your one been "tuned" or is it just running on the base program that comes with the PFC? I ask because when i brought my GTR the PFC was on its base program ( previous owner reset it by accident i think) and the PFC runs a bit lean just as you're coming on to boost at the point you describe. At least it did On mine anyway...around 14.3:1 I think it was. My car also had a slight pause or hesitation here...that was until I made a Techedge wideband AFR meter and did some adjustments When it crossed over into boost it would get heaps of fuel and take off like a rocket giving the impression it was guttless off boost. I richened up the 2500 to 3500 rpm at around load row 8,9, & 10 to give me an AFR of 13:1 or just under the the response of the engine was dramatic! The off then on feeling of the car disappeared now it just has a smooth power band up until you hit boost then its bye bye everyone Hope this helps mate . Mike

it could be a inlet manifold gasket leak, has happened to me with the GTR, took me ages to diagnose!!!!!I mean Hours and hours....looking at the ICS and the cold start valve etc etc . grap your self a can of brake cleaner in a aerosol can preferrable one with the small white tubing you can stick in the nozzle, like on those cans of CRC, and run the car, carefully and I mean carefully coz this stuff is flammable, spray along where the inlet manifold meets the side of the cylinder head. Also spray into the injector bungs where the injector nozzle sits in the inlet manifold. I had about 1inch missing in my inlet manifold gasket and 3 of the 6 injector bungs very leaking like a sieve!. The vacuum sucks in the flammable brake cleaner and it will cause a very noticable engine stumble. You'd have to be deaf to miss it. Give that a try, can save you hours and dollars. If the ICS or the cold air valve were faulty the idle would usually stay high all the time even when warmed up.....Checking them however is relatively easy so start with the brake cleaner and go looking for vacuum leaks first....

what I did is set my PFC ignition settings around the idle zones to 20 degrees (GTR) so the PFC has to be giving me 20 degrees regardless then set the timing using a timing light, in the manner you described, until it reads 20 degrees...easy.... or are you describing the PFC display screen showing a timing figure changing by itself between the 18 to 20 degrees....despite that fact you have the map set at 15 in the idle zone(s)...?.... I have noticed my GTR doing exactly that during warm up mode....is your engine fully warmed Engine temp over 70 degrees C when you set the timing?

Hi guys, to elaborate a bit further on Sydneykids post, with a power FC you can simply "change" AFM at the press of a button. You only really need to do this once you past the max power rating Sydneykid stated on the above posts. Going for a "too big" an AFM like a 2x Z32 meters on a GTR with no other mods can lead you to be using less of the load map and therfore less tuning resolution than if you stuck with the std GTR meters. Also as far as a "restriction" goes has anyone ever measured the GTR turboes std compressor inducer? Its certainly much smaller the a Z32 AFM or even the std GTR meters. Even an HKS 2530 only has a 47mm inducer so putting on huge AFM ain't going to make more power as far as restrictions go. But like Sydneykid says 300kw or a bit more going to a set of RB25 meters will give you that extra mapping resolution that you need at higher CFM's without going overboard. Mike

just a note to expand on Steves detailed post on tuning for economy......when doing the cruise set up at 50kpm, 80kpm & 100kpm at light throttle on a level piece of road the ignition can by set fairly high. I have my PFC at about 38 degrees at these points. This also enables you to run a nice lean mixture which further increases economy. Be careful to pull this timing out quickly though as load increases. The base maps will do this anyway but I'm just explaining why. The PFC pulls out 5degrees timing, hard coded, when you plant it anyway to help guard against detonation, this is non adjustable as for your own good anyway. Also when the car is coming on to boost is when you start to aim for 12 to 11 :1 AFR on the wideband. To be more precise when your boost meter reads "0" (atmospheric), say on a medium hill holding a constant speed, you should aim for 13:1 ish. My GTR base map had 14.3:1 at this point and was a slug coming on to boost as a result! Once boost is heading towards4 to 6 PSI aiming for 12.3 to 12.5 :1 is appropriate. Once boost is up around 10 PSI you would want at least 12.2 to 12 :1 ....anything over 14 PSI 11.8 up to 11:1 is a must! These are quidelines for the tune it yourself person, to get the best out your car a dyno tune is a must as differences of 0.2 of a AFR can make a big difference to torque and this can only be seen on a dyno graph. But as you can see the AFR increases gradually with boost until you reach the "best" figure for your car which could be anywhere from 12:1 (fairly lean at boost ) to 11:1 (fairly rich at boost but nice and safe) hope this helps Mike

I have it on my GTR, best thing I ever did !!! makes the PFC hand piece obsolete, pain to use anyway, and records tuning runs and all sorts of other data. Couple it with a wide band AFR like the www.techedge.com.au one and you have a self tuning tool at your disposal. It also gives you access to other PFC functions that are not available using the hand commander!!! Worth a look Mike

what other mods are done to your cylinder head? N1's making 300kw sounds exceptional to say the least.....from what I have read about N1's......Anyway I am no turbo expert by any means but the difference between the GT-ss and the 2530's is eight years of development! Imagine if we were still using computors that were eight years old in modern applications. The GT-SS housings are different in their internal shape and the actual compressor/turbine fins are a different shape and a different number of them compared to the 2530's. This is what makes the differences in spool up time> aerodynamic efficiency is much better. The reason why the 2530's make a bit more top end power ( and we're talking 30 kw or so at the wheels like big deal) is because the compressor trim is slightly larger than the GT-SS compressor trim. Bottom line is that this is only useful right at the top end were most people do 5% of their driving right at the end of the "back straight"....out of the tight hair pin I know which turbo I'd want strapped to the side of my RB26 and it wouldn't be the 2530's. I have found many posts on the UK forums re: the HKS GT-SS turboes. Mark from Abbeymotorsport (HKS UK importer) over in the UK is a major fan of them and is one of the reasons they have gained quick popularity over there. He personally recommended them to me over the 2530's having tried them on many GTR's in back to back setups. Hope this helps guys.....In a few months or so, time being the main factor I will post my results after their installation and you will be able to make up your own minds. Mike

well I'm very satisfied I've done my homework! These turboes DO make 300kw at the wheels with cams and the Do crack 14 PSI at 3200rpm. I don't think you can beat that on a road going car with N1's. Like the guy said its about where you make the power not how much you make

I've just bought a set from Nengan.com plus matching dumps......haven't installed them yet but I based my decision to buy them on a number of things: 1: wanting to keep bottom end standard for now 2: ideal match for a set of mild Tomei cams already installed 3:almost zero lagg through redesigned housings and compressor wheel, increased efficiency without loss of top end response. Lastest turbo technology, remember the 2530's are 8 years old now and haven't changed in their design. 4: Have heard/read of 14 PSI by 3200rpm on UK forums......beat that with a set of N1's 5: with my current setup almost 300kw at the wheels guaranteed....did I mention 300kw with NO LAG... 6: Only mild fueling upgrade necessary, in tank pump and 700cc injectors.... 7: road going car so overall response of the setup is paramount hope this helps

Hi there. I have just finished installing some Tomei 260/260 9.2mm lift cams in my R32 GTR and started her up today to run in the cam. We did it in 2 by 10 min bursts and then let it settle down to idle. IDLE? That didn't go to well. The car is running a Apexi power FC with the Datalogit software. It idled at 800rpm and very rough and sat in load zone "5". Always idled at 1000rpm in the past on the old cams and in load zone "2" flickering to "3" sometimes. Obviously the engine is pumping more air at the same revs because of the cams hence the greater load signal. AFM1 read 1.1V and AFM2 reads 1.4v at 800rpm. On the old cams I had 0.75v and 1v. (The reason the two differ at idle only is that I still run the standard breather system which makes one of the 2 meters reads slightly higher than the other. Only at idle though, they read almost the same once over 2000rpm)' Anyways, you can just here it coming can't you HOW do I recalibrate the airflow curve or voltage signal to get it back down to zone 2 at idle....SAFELY. ie: THE PROPER WAY TO DO IT? I'm running the std R32 AFM's. Do I ..... 1: rescale the 8 point scale, currently all set at the factory 100%, to pull down the voltage at idle eg: where it says 0.64v and 1.28v rescale these only to say 80 or 70% until I reach zone 2 2: rescale the actual a/f curve..how or what by I wouldn't have a clue any help would be great.. cheers Mike