LiQuid IcE

what do they do to deaden the boot side?? (stop it from rattling) i installed my subs last night and the boot and the rear bumper are vibrating like a bitch

theres no performance difference between R33 auto sedan or hatch. Mechanically everythings the same... only the body/interior and 2 extra doors.

Hi, here's my setup... originally I wanted to go all pioneer like you since I had pioneer speakers and headunit (for the price you cant go past pioneer for headunits in my opinion) but after some research found that pioneer amps and subs aren't too hot... hence why they are priced a little cheaper. Here's what i got: Inside the cabin... Head Unit: pioneer DEH-P7750MP $310 From overseas... I think they approx $380 on ebay including postage. Good head unit... The one you chose is better sub out is a MUST Front splits: The yellow TSC160R (GKtech is running a groupbuy on SAU...$234!!! RRP is way over 500. SO thats pretty much the same as you In the boot.... For subs Iv'e always had good experience with Kicker. And the amps they make to match their subs. I literally bought $1000 worth of stuff from JB just today. SUBS: 2 x Kicker Comps in a kicker dual Box $310 (RRP above 500) (300RMSx2) Was originally gonna buy 1xKicker comp VR in a generic box which woulda cost me $300 anyway...99% of the time the box is more important than the sub.... you can spend shitloads on a sub and spoil it in a crap box. I installed the subs today... my heart almost stopped...literally. THese subs are cheaper... but the factory kicker box makes them sound 100x better than what I was gonna buy. AMPS: 1xKicker Monoblock (300RMS). This is enough to run both subs. I thought a monoblock could only run 1 sub but apparantly not. ($400) 1xKicker 2 channel (2x60RMS) (this runs the pioneer yellow splits perfectly since they are meant to be 60RMS) $250 Whole system works out to:$1500. Like I said I literally bought the amps and subs today after heaps of research and looking around. I'm no pro when it comes to this stuff and got a lot to learn. Just talking from personal experience. If I had a higher budget I woulda probably gone Alpine typr R range or similar brands... but for my budget I could only afford to get low end stuff from big names like alpine.... BUt like i said Kicker are awesome when it comes to amps and subs. I woulda liked to keep it pioneer but didn't want to waste money on a brand name and not get the quality WIRING: When it comes to wiring, buying a normal wiring kit is a waste since you get heaps of power cable... but the R33 battery is in the back. so its not needed. and the wire is too thin. If you go for a more expensive wiring kit its the same deal.. a lotta wastage.. even if its quality. If your buying a lotta stuff the JB guys usually throw in the power cable at no charge... and charge about $10 for a set of RCA's PLEASEPLEASEPLEASE dont be stupid and pay retail on any of this stuff... JB's and any other place, their mark ups are huge... if you want approximate costs...ebay will give you some idea i rekkon... but it'll still be cheaper to go to a store. This is my longest ever response to a thread! Hope it wasnt a buncha bullshit.

yeh its sucks coz the sat nave was actually working. like it had a digital speedo, odometer and stuff on it. and it was tracking my car.... i was moving along on the map... but it was a japanese map so i was driving over oecans most of the time... u could always try hooking up an xbox or something to it.

i went through what ur kinda going through with mine as well... i just gave up and ripped out the whole system (lcd screen, cd drive under passenger seat... and a funky looking unit that sits under the carpet with a million wires coming in and out) its sitting in my garage

i installed the same head unit in a friends corolla yesterday with no problems hehe. sorry useless reply ive had heaps of issues in the past but not this one id check all ur fuses. in the car and the engine bay. but im no pro did u ground it to metal or to an existing wire?

Hot wheels. They are obviously off a holden? what other cars would they fit?

are they still avaiable?? ill pik em up asap if they are

is it a proper jap system or was it made up by an exhaust shop?? if you have a look at it you probably have a couple of resonators (hotdogs) quitening it down... you could replace the resonators with pipe which would make it louder. wouldnt recomend it if its a proper jap exhaust.

i had a similar type of damage done to my car... same side.. same place its a sh*t place coz you have to spray the whole area up until the roof and then blend it in. Worse place to get damage I rekkon. I had superstar panels in Dandy area do mine. Not your area but they are reputable, if you want you can check out my car to prove their workmanship... paint matching was brilliant too. And the price was good too... they admitted they quoted me an incorrect price but had to stick by it. PM me for more details

hey, do you have any pics of the rims on your car?

you can get a full x-force mild steel, turbo back with hi-flow cat and canon for around 700ish brand new. installation is easy. or for a couple hundred more (which looks like is in ur budget) you can get the nice shiny stainless steel turbo back version. if you dont know much about x-force try a search. there was a thread on these exhausts a while back try ebay, you dont have to buy off there but there's pics etc. you could probably sell the front/dump pipe to fund one of batmbl's dumps

pods?

damnit! now what do i do if my exhaust sells on ebay!! hmmz maybe ill need ur stocky haha. j/k

haha i just thought u were really really sorry

Nah no wine reds anymore HEAPS of Black/White/Silver Rarer factory colours include Red/Navy blue (and Iv'e heard of a midnight purple but unsure)

BUMP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

pics of cooler to amalds @ tpg.com.au please

whoa thats a hot kit maybe I'll try interest my dad in the 4-door version for his car awaits pics

you just pull it out...gently but firmly... the bit above the steering wheel is a bit scary coz its thin... the bit on the right hand side is tough to get out coz of the air vent. Also some compliance shops put a twisty knob on the right side of the wheel to adjust the lighting for the dash lights, so u need to unscrew that dial thingie first before you take off the dash

okay thanks. this has been a grey area for me for ever. so wht do you need to do to get the rails approved?? get them engineered?? is it expensive to get engineered?

so as long as the seats are ADR approved then they are legal?? what about the rails?? most come with 'universal' rails that you need to modify to fit... aren't the rails(fitting) more important than the actual seat? Do you need to get this engineered after youv'e fitted them for the whole thing to be legal?? Or is it just enough for the seats to be ADR approved? When people claim the seats they are selling are ADR approved do they come with some sort of paperwork proving this that we should be looking out for?

good job tastefully done, and I'm glad you didnt do some outragous fluro paintjob when you resprayed the car

which model GTR is it off? R32?

mines a series 2 but there may not be that much difference. From memory I had a bolt under each of the wheel arches, and 2 in the middle section of the front bar. The only 'tricky' bit was there there are clips underneath the headlights as well.