Lithium

Reedy - thats because of the actuator that HKS supply with it. As I said before, I I'd like to run an R33 one on it - which is sprung to around 7psi. That way, in theory - the minimum I'd be able to run would now be 7-8psi

On 7psi? Damn Though that is kinda good as well..... cheers!

Sweet cheers. I have to buy a new turbo anyway, but can't afford to do the clutch, AFM, PFC, injectors and pump, FMIC and GT-RS all in one shot. Does it sound silly if I get what I can afford (basically everything but the AFM, injectors and pump) and use an R33 actuator on the GT-RS to keep boost right down just to get the car on the road, even though it won't be all that special until I can afford the fuel etc upgrades? As it is at the moment I don't have a running car (other one was written off) so the fact it won't be running anywhere near potential won't bother me.

It'll probably raise the boost level - so yeah Robo's - Do you know if you can use your R33 actuator on the HKS GT2530?

What I had hoped I'd be able to get away with is getting a decent fuel pump , a PFC, FMIC and a GT-RS kit and get it tuned on the minimum boost setting - is it fair to say that even if I wanted to run the "minimum" I'd still need the bigger injectors?

On WWW.HKS-POWER.CO.JP (warning... in japanese) you can go to the turbos menu, and there is a section called "RB20-25" or something like that, which has a section on the GT-RS and GT2530Kai kits for R32 and R33 GTSt Skylines. It shows boost plots and dyno plots comparing between a stock R33 turbo and a GTRS or GT2530Kai to get an idea of comparative power/torque/spool performance. The GT-RS at least on paper looks SLIGHTLY laggier than the R33 turbo, maybe ~300-400rpm later at most to reach the same boost level on an Rb25. The 2530Kai looks like its better right through the rev range than the R33 turbo. From what I've seen around the place, the 2530Kai looks like what I'd consider the perfect turbo for a "street tune" R32 GTSt with an RB20DET. Slightly better down low, and much better up high and with higher boost levels than the R33 unit. I'm just looking for what realistcally I'd have to expect in terms of set up and general driving with one I have no doubt I'll like the full throttle performance of a GT-RS.

Awesome - thanks a lot That pretty much covers what I was looking for. So it drives fairly well like a pretty standard R33 when not giving it some??

Hi I know at least a couple of people have HKS GT-RS turbos on their R33 Skylines, and have seen some dyno results from people using them - but there are a couple of questions which have I've had that I haven't found answered yet: What boost level is the actuator that comes with the turbo set to? Do people use the factory fuel system - or upgrade the pump? Injectors? What kind of 1/4 mile times have people with them on R33s achieved? Any input would be appreciated Cheers

Nice - that cleared a few things up for me as well, thanks

Comparing my VG30 exhaust housing and R33 exhaust housing/exhaust wheel - the R33 exhaust wheel in a VG30 housing will not touch the sides, which ain't going to be much use..... I could be quite wrong however.

Could also be a cracked exhaust manifold gasket, or not fully tightened manifold bolts. Look around the exhaust manifold for hints of exhaust gas getting out.

What happens if the owner doesn't understand this and decides to change to a higher flowing air filter? A really cold day? Maybe a change in boost level? Whats the point in even having a AFM if you're going to do this kind of tuning?

I have ended up with effectively a VL Turbo which I need running on my R33 Skyline ASAP, and its designed to have the wastegate in the dump pipe. I take it you have sold the dump pipe?

Its definately not a VLT, because the dump pipe is quite obviously different to the kind you'd get hanging off an RB - but that sounds like a really good suggestion. Are the turbos on the old 2l Turbo R31's any similar in the wastegate setup to the VLTs? The dump pipe from one of those might be easier to find. pics: Sorry about the quality of the turbine housing pic - PXT phone struggling with the dark/light contrast.

Getting a downpipe made for the exhaust flange wouldn't be so much of a hassle though - its the fact that there is no wastegate in the actual housing which is causing me issues GCG are in Australia - it'd be hellishly expensive for me to work with them, and unfortunately I've stretched budget to get this far. It looks at the moment like I am pretty much screwed and just have to accept it.

I've had a quite a shit year all round this year, but two of the biggest *car related* events being my R33 blowing up its standard turbo late last year... and more recently being involved in a nasty car accident caused by someone else which resulted in the daily driver being written off, leaving us completely carless until I can get my car running again or when the other party pay us for a replacement car - and of course we find one. I had been intending on getting a larger turbo, but only just recovered from the costs of other crap thats gone down over the last year - so at such late notice the best I could do was buy a turbo comparable with the stock one to get myself on the road. It was brought to my attention that there was a freshly rebuilt turbo from a VG30ET motor available, and that it would be able to be pretty much a bolt up job to get the car up and going again. Sounded like a pretty sweet deal to me, so went with it. The turbo arrived yesterday - had a look at all the bits and at first glance it was pretty much as I expected, the compressor housing A/R and wheel were visible smaller than the R33 unit but the turbine size was visibly larger. It all looks very clean, and freshly built as I had been advised. HOWEVER, these are 3 things aren't quite as I would have hoped: 1/ Oil feeds are different to the R33 ones. This isn't that much of a hassle, it costs money but probably worth while doing anyway. I would normally overlook this. 2/ The outlet from the compressor housing doesn't have the flange that R33's have to attach the piping which heads for the intercooler to, pretty much in the r32 Turbo style. Again, not a biggy - that kind of stuff is to be expected when you get a turbo from a different car. 3/ The wastegate assembly is mounted in the factory Z31 (??) dump pipe, as opposed to in the turbine housing!!! I had no warning for this bit, and would NOT have bought the turbo if this was bought to my attention as I can't afford to pay for the engineering required to work around it. I've never heard of this, and the previous owner never mentioned it. I wanted something I could just bolt on and get the car mobile with (which the person who sold it to me knew) and I really don't have the money to get an external wastegate, and I'm also going to have to get oil lines made up for it as the oil feeds on the core for this turbo as well as rubber hosing to connect to the compressor outlet. That all makes getting the turbo running a LOT more hassle than it is worth. I'm not too sure how much luck I'd have selling this off as I'm too considerate to sell it to someone with a Skyline without telling them its going to be an expensive pain in the arse to get running. I'm guessing I'm clutching at straws - but if I managed to get my hands on a .63 a/r internally gated Garrett T3 style turbine cover would it be something that could be swapped with the one that came with the VG30ET turbo? I can't see why the shaft or wheels would need to be touched, but knowing my luck it'd still fit into the "Too hard to be worth the effort" basket... The guy who sold it to me has refused my plea to send it back to him for my money back - even though I would have still been out of pocket for freight and he'd be in no different position to where he was before I had it. The turbo has hardly been touched since being in my care, let alone fitted to anything. Any other suggestions? At the moment I'm $750 out of pocket when I was at a stretch just to pay for this turbo... and still without a running car.

I go with the F20C as well - that article is done from a euro point of view as well, the Japanese spec one is around 250ps... ie, the same as an RB25DET They are reliable, sound awesome, light, economical, are smooth, have low emissions, make awesome power for an NA motor (hey, they are higher than a lot of equivalent displacement turbo motors), and are really tractible etc. And they aren't on the razors edge to make that power, do an intake, exhaust, ECU and tuning etc and there is still more to be had. One of my mates was making over 150rwkw on his mildly modded S2000s, which makes for some fun driving There may be some limited run NA motor that matches its peak power/l - but I doubt that motor can match the F20C in the other aspects... it might also be peaky as a mofo and not actually end up being as good an overall performer. The F20C is a jack of all trades in its displacement range.

Mine was running 10psi on an RB25DET when it happened to me... and I was at part throttle when it blew.

As I said - and I hope I am right, I think something fell out of the elbow coming off the turbocharger's compressor housing....

Now that I think about it, I think I know what happened to the broken piece of compressor - we were sure we heard something drop out when we removed the piping which comes off the compressor and heads towards the intercooler, but couldn't work out what it would be. There is probably a piece of compressor wheel lying on the floor in my garage somewhere It was only later when we pulled the turbo apart that we realised what had happened inside. Also, just out of interest - the turbo otherwise appears perfectly healthy. The amount of shaft play is normal for a healthy turbo, and there was NO smoke.

Some of that sounds similar - I get a click when rotating the wheels, but the ceramic exhaust wheel is perfectly in tact. I shut the car off as soon as I heard dodgey noises from the bearings, and the only time it has moved again was to drive it on the trailer to tow home. When it was idling on the trailer it sounded perfectly normal.... I'm kind of worried about where the nylon may have got though. Has your engine sustained any damage?

I've finally sorted out a new turbo for my car so pulled off the stock turbo off my R33 Spec2 which crapped out at the drags a couple of months back - and pulled it apart to find out what the damage was. Turns out that there is a bit missing from the nylon compressor wheel!!! This isn't something I've heard of, and I'm not too sure what could have caused it - I always run it with a filter. Anyone seen this before? Should I be concerned about where the nylon went? (The ballbearing core is stuffed too...)

As much as I respect SydneyKids knowledge and experience, I agree much more with these comments. What if there is an extra extra unexpected variable? 5.1v could mean that just over the AFMs max air came in, or maybe there was 25% more.... or maybe it was right on the limit this time, but maybe another time it could go higher over that and it'll still get the same amount of fuel. I'd definately turn the boost down in the mean time.

Thanks for that I did do a search but didn't manage to sniff that out... SR20DET injectors or STi WRX injectors look like the most likely candidates at the moment.

I've been looking around for a solution or compromise for the situation where I might be maxing out my stock fuel system next time my car hits the dyno. I am aiming for around 400-450hp @ flywheel, and have a 500hp Walbro fuel pump lined up but still have the nasty R33 side feed injectors to contend with. When I first looked up info on this kind of thing, I found out that 2JZGTEs are low-impedance 550cc side feed injectors but have more recently discovered that those are USDM items, and that Japanese spec ones (a set of which I can get for a very reasonable price) are 440cc high impedance side feed ones - and to my understanding so are R33 RB25DET injectors. Does anyone concur? And have anyone tried this conversion? Or have any ideas about how hard it would be to make it work? Thanks in advance, Dan