Lithium

Comparing my VG30 exhaust housing and R33 exhaust housing/exhaust wheel - the R33 exhaust wheel in a VG30 housing will not touch the sides, which ain't going to be much use..... I could be quite wrong however.

Could also be a cracked exhaust manifold gasket, or not fully tightened manifold bolts. Look around the exhaust manifold for hints of exhaust gas getting out.

What happens if the owner doesn't understand this and decides to change to a higher flowing air filter? A really cold day? Maybe a change in boost level? Whats the point in even having a AFM if you're going to do this kind of tuning?

I have ended up with effectively a VL Turbo which I need running on my R33 Skyline ASAP, and its designed to have the wastegate in the dump pipe. I take it you have sold the dump pipe?

Its definately not a VLT, because the dump pipe is quite obviously different to the kind you'd get hanging off an RB - but that sounds like a really good suggestion. Are the turbos on the old 2l Turbo R31's any similar in the wastegate setup to the VLTs? The dump pipe from one of those might be easier to find. pics: Sorry about the quality of the turbine housing pic - PXT phone struggling with the dark/light contrast.

Getting a downpipe made for the exhaust flange wouldn't be so much of a hassle though - its the fact that there is no wastegate in the actual housing which is causing me issues GCG are in Australia - it'd be hellishly expensive for me to work with them, and unfortunately I've stretched budget to get this far. It looks at the moment like I am pretty much screwed and just have to accept it.

I've had a quite a shit year all round this year, but two of the biggest *car related* events being my R33 blowing up its standard turbo late last year... and more recently being involved in a nasty car accident caused by someone else which resulted in the daily driver being written off, leaving us completely carless until I can get my car running again or when the other party pay us for a replacement car - and of course we find one. I had been intending on getting a larger turbo, but only just recovered from the costs of other crap thats gone down over the last year - so at such late notice the best I could do was buy a turbo comparable with the stock one to get myself on the road. It was brought to my attention that there was a freshly rebuilt turbo from a VG30ET motor available, and that it would be able to be pretty much a bolt up job to get the car up and going again. Sounded like a pretty sweet deal to me, so went with it. The turbo arrived yesterday - had a look at all the bits and at first glance it was pretty much as I expected, the compressor housing A/R and wheel were visible smaller than the R33 unit but the turbine size was visibly larger. It all looks very clean, and freshly built as I had been advised. HOWEVER, these are 3 things aren't quite as I would have hoped: 1/ Oil feeds are different to the R33 ones. This isn't that much of a hassle, it costs money but probably worth while doing anyway. I would normally overlook this. 2/ The outlet from the compressor housing doesn't have the flange that R33's have to attach the piping which heads for the intercooler to, pretty much in the r32 Turbo style. Again, not a biggy - that kind of stuff is to be expected when you get a turbo from a different car. 3/ The wastegate assembly is mounted in the factory Z31 (??) dump pipe, as opposed to in the turbine housing!!! I had no warning for this bit, and would NOT have bought the turbo if this was bought to my attention as I can't afford to pay for the engineering required to work around it. I've never heard of this, and the previous owner never mentioned it. I wanted something I could just bolt on and get the car mobile with (which the person who sold it to me knew) and I really don't have the money to get an external wastegate, and I'm also going to have to get oil lines made up for it as the oil feeds on the core for this turbo as well as rubber hosing to connect to the compressor outlet. That all makes getting the turbo running a LOT more hassle than it is worth. I'm not too sure how much luck I'd have selling this off as I'm too considerate to sell it to someone with a Skyline without telling them its going to be an expensive pain in the arse to get running. I'm guessing I'm clutching at straws - but if I managed to get my hands on a .63 a/r internally gated Garrett T3 style turbine cover would it be something that could be swapped with the one that came with the VG30ET turbo? I can't see why the shaft or wheels would need to be touched, but knowing my luck it'd still fit into the "Too hard to be worth the effort" basket... The guy who sold it to me has refused my plea to send it back to him for my money back - even though I would have still been out of pocket for freight and he'd be in no different position to where he was before I had it. The turbo has hardly been touched since being in my care, let alone fitted to anything. Any other suggestions? At the moment I'm $750 out of pocket when I was at a stretch just to pay for this turbo... and still without a running car.

I go with the F20C as well - that article is done from a euro point of view as well, the Japanese spec one is around 250ps... ie, the same as an RB25DET They are reliable, sound awesome, light, economical, are smooth, have low emissions, make awesome power for an NA motor (hey, they are higher than a lot of equivalent displacement turbo motors), and are really tractible etc. And they aren't on the razors edge to make that power, do an intake, exhaust, ECU and tuning etc and there is still more to be had. One of my mates was making over 150rwkw on his mildly modded S2000s, which makes for some fun driving There may be some limited run NA motor that matches its peak power/l - but I doubt that motor can match the F20C in the other aspects... it might also be peaky as a mofo and not actually end up being as good an overall performer. The F20C is a jack of all trades in its displacement range.

Mine was running 10psi on an RB25DET when it happened to me... and I was at part throttle when it blew.

As I said - and I hope I am right, I think something fell out of the elbow coming off the turbocharger's compressor housing....

Now that I think about it, I think I know what happened to the broken piece of compressor - we were sure we heard something drop out when we removed the piping which comes off the compressor and heads towards the intercooler, but couldn't work out what it would be. There is probably a piece of compressor wheel lying on the floor in my garage somewhere It was only later when we pulled the turbo apart that we realised what had happened inside. Also, just out of interest - the turbo otherwise appears perfectly healthy. The amount of shaft play is normal for a healthy turbo, and there was NO smoke.

Some of that sounds similar - I get a click when rotating the wheels, but the ceramic exhaust wheel is perfectly in tact. I shut the car off as soon as I heard dodgey noises from the bearings, and the only time it has moved again was to drive it on the trailer to tow home. When it was idling on the trailer it sounded perfectly normal.... I'm kind of worried about where the nylon may have got though. Has your engine sustained any damage?

I've finally sorted out a new turbo for my car so pulled off the stock turbo off my R33 Spec2 which crapped out at the drags a couple of months back - and pulled it apart to find out what the damage was. Turns out that there is a bit missing from the nylon compressor wheel!!! This isn't something I've heard of, and I'm not too sure what could have caused it - I always run it with a filter. Anyone seen this before? Should I be concerned about where the nylon went? (The ballbearing core is stuffed too...)

As much as I respect SydneyKids knowledge and experience, I agree much more with these comments. What if there is an extra extra unexpected variable? 5.1v could mean that just over the AFMs max air came in, or maybe there was 25% more.... or maybe it was right on the limit this time, but maybe another time it could go higher over that and it'll still get the same amount of fuel. I'd definately turn the boost down in the mean time.

Thanks for that I did do a search but didn't manage to sniff that out... SR20DET injectors or STi WRX injectors look like the most likely candidates at the moment.

I've been looking around for a solution or compromise for the situation where I might be maxing out my stock fuel system next time my car hits the dyno. I am aiming for around 400-450hp @ flywheel, and have a 500hp Walbro fuel pump lined up but still have the nasty R33 side feed injectors to contend with. When I first looked up info on this kind of thing, I found out that 2JZGTEs are low-impedance 550cc side feed injectors but have more recently discovered that those are USDM items, and that Japanese spec ones (a set of which I can get for a very reasonable price) are 440cc high impedance side feed ones - and to my understanding so are R33 RB25DET injectors. Does anyone concur? And have anyone tried this conversion? Or have any ideas about how hard it would be to make it work? Thanks in advance, Dan

I've driven a mates HSV Clubsport VX2 with SS induction kit and extractors, exhaust - that goes very well... its not as quick as my Skyline is (or was...) but for a big cruisy car its very impressive, quite a nice drive. He has just placed an order for a VZ Clubbie with all the flash options, I look forward to experiencing that one!

Ooo I can't believe I didn't spot that one, it looks very nice - I have sent an Emaill to ATP about t it. Thanks

Had no suggestions, so revised the post with less bollux Anyone?

Hi all I have a relatively stock R33 at the moment, just intake, exhaust, boost controller and S-AFC, which over the next year had intended on trying to get it up to around 400hp @ flywheel. Not long ago I took it to the drags to see how the increased power from a dyno tune had picked things up, and blew the stock turbo - so am kinda forced to consider upgrading it before I have done all the supporting mods I would have otherwise done first. I had already been considering going for an ATP GT2871R (or 25/40R) with .86 turbine A/R, and selling on the stock turbo - but now my car doesn't have one at all, so it seems to me that since I'm going to upgrade it at the moment I may as well now... but unfortunately I can't afford the supporting mods right now so have formulated a plan as follows Plan: - Sell S-AFC2 off to help fund adventure - Buy ATP GT2871R with T3 flange + Tial 38mm wastegate with a LOW boost spring (9psi at absolute max) and a higher boost (suitable for closer to 12psi) spring - Install turbo and wastegate with low boost spring, and run around with factory ECU, intercooler, etc - will be gutless and laggy compared to stock, but at least I am on the road at this point - in the meantime saving money for the next step. - Once funds are sufficient, buy and install PowerFC and front mount intercooler - get the car dyno tuned to ~12psi (or whatever level is safe on the stock fuel system) and enjoy the extra power... knowing the turbo is reliable at this level etc, and go into the normal replacement of weaker parts as higher power claims them etc. The turbo - 2871R Does this sound like a reasonable idea? Should I be ok (I'm not worried about power, just reliability) running around with a bigger turbo on the stock intercooler etc if the boost is right down? Any alternative suggestions? Cheers, Dan.

Holy hell - your dynos must read extremely low, or your tracks must be insane..... I'm thinking it might be a bit of a combination. I did 14.1 @ 103mph with 2.35s 60ft time with 183rwkw in the manual GTS25t here, on a cold unprepped track and raced and beat all the other R33s present, as well as a manual twin turbo 300ZX.

The one I was looking at was a 50 trim - but I found out that its actually a Stone Mountain (aka. dodgey quality). I am on the look out at the moment, I spotted this for sale but suspect it might be a bit much - 60trim comp. on it.... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-18846258.htm

Thanks Yeah I know 500hp won't be a number I'd see on 1.1bar ~1bar is a shorter term aim - but I'd like to set 500hp in my sights (turbo would be capable of it) so want to change as little as possible when I decide to raise boost levels. Admittedly I wasn't sure if 8psi would be too low or not. Truth be told, the motivation for having such a broad power range etc, is I've actually been FORCED to buy a new turbo as my R33 one failed, and would like to move forward but will only really be able to get it running with FMIC, ECU and the turbo and wastegate as well as stock fuel system - so run it on low boost initially and gradually bump up the pressure as I get more supporting mods with 500hp as a an option if I decide I want to crack the motor open. The concern I have is that the factory fuel system wouldn't be able to supply for 12psi on that kind of turbo, or do you think I'd be safe?

Preferring to dig up an old post than to start a semi-redundant topic - if I was was to aim for in the 400-500hp @ flywheel rangewith an RB25DET, running 1-1.1bar with a T3/T04E with .7 turbine A/R, do you think around ~40mm external (8psi spring) would be sensible? Cheers in advance

Interesingly enough, exactly the same as the above person - but running S-AFC2 instead of PFC and 10psi instead of stock boost.