operationsideways

I have had the Toyo T1Rs and they are a great road tyre. They dont wear too quickly but they do grip the road very well. And for the price you pay compared to other high end road tyres they are value for money. I will buy again.

So how did you go on the dyno today Dan??

Where are you located??

The springs rates were calculated by SK with my measurements and are as follows: FRONT Coil ID = 67/97mm Wire OD = 12 mm # of Coils = 9.125 turns Spring rate = 190 lbs/inch (3.4 kg/mm) on the soft rate and 550 lbs/inch (9.7 kg/mm) on the high rate REAR Coil ID = 87/101 mm Wire OD = 13 mm # of Coils = 9.125 turns Spring rate = 180 lbs/inch (3.2 kg/mm) on the soft rate and 400 lbs/inch (7.2 kg/mm) on the high rate And I would not agree the springs are not most of the cost, if you went the Whiteline option @ $790 then I think you will find that the coilover kit is more then 50% of the cost... But I am still interested in fixing this issue (with limited funds) and more than likely will put these back in and see how they go but ideally I want a spring rate of around 5kg front and 4kg rear. But I just wanted to be 100% sure they will be fit so Im not wasting my time.

What about other brands of springs?? Am I correct in assuming that Whiteline springs for an ECR33 will be the same as an RSR or some other brand springs and they would fit?? I have some KG/MM springs at home from when I fitted the Bilstein/Whiteline setup I would like to put in. I am in the same position as you and find the current setup far too soft on the track. And yes I do have the swaybars and good alignment etc.....

What about just replacing the current whiteline springs with something of a stiffer spring rate?? What advantages / disadvantages does this have over swapping over to the coilover setup? I would like to get the coilover kit but after already spending a grand on the shocks/springs, it would be nice not to spend nearly that again.....

How about valve stem oil seals??

I think your getting confused. You wire the solenoid to where the exisiting boost control setup used to be. Ie cut the existing wires from the factory boost controller and wire them to your new power fc solenoid. Then hook the vacumn lines up as sinistagtst said above. Enable the boost control on your power fc hand controller before starting the engine and your away.

I would say there is no listing for the r32 gtst because Apexi did not actually release the power fc for the r32 gtst. The r32 gtst Power FC's have been modified by AP Engineering..... But I would think the boost controller that works on r33 gtst and the GTR's should work fine, as I think the AP Engineering Power FC for the r32 is actually a r33 ecu modified to suit.....

Hi SK, Thanks for the info. Currently fitted I have the Whiteline springs, Bilstein shocks, Whiteline adjustable swaybars, adjustable castor rods, front/rear strut braces, front under arm brace, hicas removal bar, Whiteline pineapples and Whiteline rear camber kit fitted. The rear swaybar is set to the hardest setting and the front swaybar I have tried on soft and medium but it still doesnt feel quite right. The last alignment was pretty much to your specs, except I couldnt get enough front camber. Was looking at arms or bushes... FRONT Castor - +7 degrees Camber - -1 degree Toe - zero REAR Camber - -1.5 degrees Toe - -2mm each side I drive both on the road with street tyres and the track with Dunlop semi's. I want to be able to get around the corners on the track at high speed. Higher than what I am doing now anyway. Would these harder KG/MM springs be OK with the valving on the group buy Bilsteins that I have or are they simply too stiff?? What are the spring rates of the Whiteline r33 springs I have in there now?? OIr what else do you recommend?? Thanks for your help.

Hi SK, Could you please work out my spring rates for these KG/MM springs that I had on my car before the Whitelines and Bilsteins. They have a strange shape so I have attached pics. I am after something a little stiffer than what I currently have... FRONT Coil ID = 67/97mm Wire OD = 12 mm # of Coils = 9.125 turns Spring rate = REAR Coil ID = 87/101 mm Wire OD = 13 mm # of Coils = 9.125 turns Spring rate = Cheers

You can definately get the gasket from a nissan spare parts. I got mine from Metro Nissan in Brisbane. The gasket I needed was from the head to the sump oil return (shown on the left side in your first pic beside the missing stud on number 1) but im pretty sure it was called a turbo gasket?? It exactly the same as the turbo to sump gasket you are searching for. The gasket was less than $5......

Im in

Hi, Yes R32 and R34 GTR coilpacks are different. The R32 gtst, R32 GTR, R33 series 1 gtst and R33 GTR all use one type of coilpack (without ignitors built into each coil) and the R34 GTR and R33 series 2 gtst use another type of coilpack (with the ignitors built in) Cheers

Hey mate, Where about North Sydney are you?? You arent able to drop it to Alexandria or Rydalmere are you?? I am in Brisbane but have offices there.....

Price??

The cams in an R33 gtst are the same from 08/93 series 1 through to the series 2 up to 08/97. Nissan then changed the crank angle sensor causing the cam to change designs. See the comments from the Tomei website below: Notes: ECR33: 1st;1993.8 - 2nd;1997.9 - (changed crank angle sensor) So you really need to find out which crank angle sensor you have and this will tell you which cams you require. Hope this helps

Sourced one, thanks guys.

Hi Guys, Anyone out there with a good condition/working r33 gtst viscous fan hub they want to sell me?? I am in Brisbane if there is anyone local. Let me know via PM if you do. Cheers,

Sold

Hi Gary, How much longer will this be running for?? I want one, and will hopefully have the money before Christmas. Cheers

R30-RB30DET - Thanks for the reply and power ratings. With the smaller trim wheel (550hp), at what rpm should you have say 1 bar boost with normal mods, no cams?? Also, please confirm is it a new ball bearing core, seals and wheels just reusing the covers? Cheers

Hi, For the RB25 turbos, what sort of power are you getting at what boost with the two different compressor wheels? Also, you say they bolt straight back up with nothing additional required?? Cheers

I will take these providing they are as described, please PM me. Cheers

jasont82 - I am pretty sure and the dba instruction sheet said that you are supposed to use a non oil base cleaner and clean the oil off the sides of the rotors that touch the pads before you fit them. I couldn't imagine the rdas would be any different?? Have you done this?? If not I would check and clean them before fitting the new pads.... rs73 - received my rotors today. Thanks for organising the group buy. Cheers