Bliksem

Nice, a mate does this work too, the results can be amazing....

I've got an Odyssey PC680 in my Rb30DET and I haven't had any problems in the 7 months I've been running it

Swirl Marks? A decent detailer can remove those easily. My mate owns a detailing business heres an example: Before: After: Link to thread and more pics etc: http://www.streetmodified.com.au/showthrea...ighlight=detail

If you use the Wikipedia definition it should sum it up: oh and:

Yes, these are listed as a specialised component in some reviews , Corvette lists the rear suspension as: "transverse-mounted composite leaf spring's with monotube shock absorbers." The list of old technology by our standards goes on much further than that, pretty amazing, can't argue with the time though

http://www.worldcarfans.com/9080619.003/ho...aster-than-gt-r Interesting times in the car scene I love this

I guess it as bound to happen... Thankgod the kit doesnt come with the GTR badge.

Bump... very cheap RAYS Nuts here!

They fitted one of these in one of the High performance Imports DVD's and tested the power gains, if I remember correctly there was a 1-2kw improvement.

I second these for my car

First thing I'd do is change the oil, that is just good practice since you've only recently bought the car. It's also possible that there could be a small amount of oil contamination which affects the viscocity of the oil ie: small amounts of petrol escaping past the piston rings and making its way into your oil. Once you've changed the oil (which imo you should do regardless), and if the problem still persists - get another gauge to test the real pressure. As others have said the oil pressure sender is known to be faulty.

Correct, crank collars only need to be fitted to cranks where the oil pump drive is too short. RB20, RB30, and early RB26... In saying that though It looks like the crank drive is still a few mm short on those pics, but that is nothing by comparison to what a photo of a failed pump off an early pump looks like.

He wouldnt need one, the problem was fixed by R33 onlwards

RB30DET

Can I ask how people are making this decision without any firm figures of what the LF-A actually is/does?

Hmm Im also running a DOHC 30... I didnt use an engine brace or drop the sub-frame. I Just jacked the motor up slightly and slipped a socket under each engine mount to gain that extra inch. I found there was more than enough working room by doing this combined with the removal of the radiator.

I'd say he did. Usually anything even slighlty bigger will foul with the pwr steering...

It isnt an engine out job and can be done in half a day with a hoist. I changed mine and it was a matter of loosening engine mounts, raising motor several inches, remove: radiator Harmonic Balancer Timing Belt + Crank Pulley Sway bar Sump and finally oil pump.

You say the oil is too thin, but which Viscosity of Royal Purple were you using? Nissan recommends 7.5W30

This line doesnt make sense to me. Metal to metal contact would provide more resistance not less...

Nope that was at the Victorian Autocross series in Deniliquin

Piping set-up for mine is on page 2, I've also been giving thought to simply buying a GTR washer

I may as well contribute to this thread too Datsun Stanza (ex Go-Gas Rally car from the 70's) Specs: L20 Bored to 2.1L Forged Pistons DatRally Head DatRally Cam Twin 48mm Webbers DatRally 5 Speed Gearbox DatRally LSD 4.1:1 Adjustable Coil Over Suspension (front) Full Roll Cage Racing Seats Volvo Brakes + Brake Bias Adjuster Heaps more but you get the idea... Heres a few pics from a fortnight ago, sorry about the camer phone quality

Worst case remove the pipe and take it to someone who can weld an additional 30mm to it. Aren't the cooling pro kits a China brand item? I'm seeing alot of victims from cheap china parts lately, the GReddy coolers arent that much dearer...

Excellent, if what you're saying is that it's a bolt in replacement thats what I need for my GReddy plenum