Wink

From Cherrybrook 1) Get on Castle Hill Road in direction going away from Castle Hill 2) Go under tunnel that bends right and leads to Pennant Hills Road 3) Take a left at Copeland Road 4) Take a right at very end of Copeland Road to get onto Beecroft Road. 5) Follow Beecroft Road until it becomes Epping Road 6) Continue on Epping Road 7) Take a left at Mowbray Road 8) Follow Mowbray Road all the way to Chatswood. I drive from Cherrybrook to Chatswood nearly everyday and this is the quickest way short of taking the toll M2.

Spotted FST-32R just then on Castle Hill Road.

How do you pronounce "Glafche"? Wan-ker. ^_^

I am possibly the only person on this forums that can't feel/see any difference in using the different 98s. I regularly switch between Vortex98, Optimax and Ultimate and have not felt any difference between the 3. I have not used Mobil because the one time I wanted to, I didn't know which one was the 98RON one...

The Power FC is not a electronic boost controller (EBC) - it's a total replacement ECU. However you can get the EBC add-on for the Power FC. Buying the PFC (including EBC addon) and tuning it will leave you little change from $1500. The e-boost is a dedicated EBC but frankly I'd rather get a JDM one (eg GReddy Profec B-Spec 2, Blitz D-SBC, Apexi AVC-R). These range in price from $450 - $1000. Budgeting $2000 for an EBC is too much.

Nice car, nice engine bay How many Skylines are there in the UK? In Sydney for example, if you take a quick drive to the city on a Friday night you'll see around 5+ Skylines - are they that common in the UK?

Hi - just wondering what headlights you have?

silv wins.

Yes that was me. Was hanging around Maccas at 815pm hoping there would be some earlybirds but had to leave due to previous commitments.

I looked at the AVC-R instructions and yes it is very similar except for the whole interfacing with the ECU to use the extra functions the AVC-R offers.

So what tyres did you get for only $150 each?

Try using Meguiars ScratchX

It comes with the whole package. See page 4 of the PDF manual to see the parts list: http://www.greddy.com/tech/PROFEC_B_SPEC2.pdf You'll notice that the t-piece (called "3 Way Fitting") is shown in the bottom left.

You gain very little (<10rwkw) from just putting a FMIC on. The point of the FMIC is so you can turn up the boost more. Basically no point in FMIC if you don't turn up the boost (although some may say the FMIC helps in summer but I doubt anyone just gets it for that alone).

Yes tap the hose that comes out of the filter with something like a t-piece. The GReddy Profec B-Spec 2 is also an electronic boost gauge so a boost gauge is not really needed but if you want an analog display that's the hose the boost gauge would use.

Picture 1 - The GReddy solenoid fully replaces the stock one. - Black hose from the actuator goes to the GReddy solenoid as shown - The red hose attached to the GReddy solenoid goes to Picture 2 - Electrics are wired up simply as shown. Picture 2 - This photo is located at far end of the plenum, next to the BOV. - The bottom red hose attached to the T-piece comes from the solenoid in Picture 1 - The right red hose goes to the plenum as shown. - The black hose on the left goes to the BOV. Picture 3 - This photo is located at near end of the plenum, next to the wiper washer bottle. - The bottom hose with the filter attached goes to the main control unit inside the cabin. - Other hoses are put together simply as shown.

The GReddy Profec B-Spec 2 is becoming one of the more popular EBCs around and since I had one installed I thought I'd post a really simple photo guide on how install should look like on a RB25DET engine. Picture 1 - The GReddy solenoid fully replaces the stock one. - Black hose from the actuator goes to the GReddy solenoid as shown - The red hose attached to the GReddy solenoid goes to Picture 2 - Electrics are wired up simply as shown. Picture 2 - This photo is located at far end of the plenum, next to the BOV. - The bottom red hose attached to the T-piece comes from the solenoid in Picture 1 - The right red hose goes to the plenum as shown. - The black hose on the left goes to the BOV. Picture 3 - This photo is located at near end of the plenum, next to the wiper washer bottle. - The bottom hose with the filter attached goes to the main control unit inside the cabin. - Other hoses are put together simply as shown. Hope this helps some of you during a DIY install.

My vacuum hose comes through the wall behind the right hand side guard.

The Starcorp Impuls are not copies of Impul wheels but Work Equip wheels.

All the stuff you have said is more or less correct. Recommended path for stage 1 mods: 1) Performance air intake (panel or CAI'd pod filter). 2) 3" Turbo back exhaust, upgrade to hi-flow cat. 3) FMIC 4) Boost controller to turn up boost. That should see you to a tad less than 200rwkw.

A C55 does the 0-400 in around 13.5 seconds. Being an auto car the 0-400 times won't change much due to driver skill so you just have to make sure that your R33 GTR beats this 13.5 time (which it should do easily).

Woke up and I feel like crap. Sorry guys, I'm out.

I also would prefer something around north shore area.

Joy in a swimming suit? Teeheehee Most likely will be there

Middle one is meant to look something like this I think I'm a fan of Volk Challenges normally but the copies are abit ho-hum (I'm assuming you are buying replicas and not real versions).