colourclassic

SOLD thanks for those who enquired.

PM'd about clutch slave

The turbo you have is not a high flow. I was always under the impression that 'Series 1' 21U turbos had aluminium impellers and ceramic turbine wheels. Series 2 had a nylon impeller and ceramic turbine wheel.

PM'd

I had 270rwkw on my Cooling Pro return flow. IIRC the MAP sensor showed a very flat boost curve once 20psi had been reached, and very little pressure drop.

Definitely won't notice a difference on the street, and I'm dubious you would on a racetrack. Because Nismo.

lol

If you want to make the car even more secure, you can put a switch on the fuel pump or ignition relay and put it in a separate concealed location. This way, even if the keys are located, the car will not start.

No, theres no reason you can't disable the fuel pump relay instead. More importantly you should try to conceal the immobiliser unit in a hard to access location under the dash.

Is the packing in the muffler and mid pipe all intact and tight?

I think I sold you these - what are you putting on instead?

The Walbro 255 I currently have is quieter than the Nismo/R33 GT-R item it replaced.

If it was exhaust gasket I would have thought it would either be the same regardless of temperature, if anything get better due to metal expansion. Any other ideas?

My RB25 has developed a ticking sound which appears when the engine is warm and only at idle. Anything above idle and it seems to disappear. It is *not* the injectors pulsing. In fact it can barely be heard when your head is over the engine. You can hear it best when listening either below the engine or at the back of the front wheel wells. I tried using a wooden dowel/long screwdriver stethoscope but couldn't isolate the origin of the sound. I recorded a short audio clip from below the car which demonstrates the sound: I first thought sticky lifters or a leaking exhaust gasket, but they would presumably appear worse when cold. This sound only appears when the engine is up to temp. Ideas?

He's going to be paying that off for a loooooong time.

SOLD

IMO the stock wing looks better. It makes the rear guards look wider.

BUMPPP Someone in Melbourne buy these!

BUMP $50 for the R33 pump only!

Prefer not to post due to size and cost. Someone in Melbourne must want these!

BUMP still available

34 pump sold, 33 GT-R pump still available.

Sounds like a lot of effort to put what is now a 20+ year old diff in. I'll just get a Nismo and hopefully it isn't too clunky.

If Gts-t drive cups can be used with the GT-R diff I'd deem that a reasonable swap. Changing the input flange is no problem. All this talk about changing hubs/axles/bearings etc is what scares me haha

Did you need to replace the hubs and axles, or just the diff centre? Was it a big improvement?