NATAS

Intake of 80C degrees.... I can't really be 100% sure unless I physically go poking around with a multimeter at you sensor/s and poke around in your bay.. as well as how the rest of your hardware is setup.. However, it seems quite normal to me.... Back in 1st year aeronautical engineering at uni, we learnt in our physics classes that when a gas (in our case, the gas is air) is compressed, heat being generated is the result, the more the gas is compressed, the more heat is generated. The turbo itself being hot has very little to do with the heat being added to the intake temp, it's the actual physics that's taking place during the compression of the air. So the outside ambient temperature before the air filter only plays a small part in the overall intake temps and it any, only takes place before the turbo compressor.. After the compressor is a whole different ball game as there is an entire 1.5 inch thick text book about the physical behavior of gasses as well as thermo dynamics. A few things can be done to help keep inlet temps down. Personally, I put in a whole heap of ideas I developed using the stuff I learnt at uni when putting my car together - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/425426-what-do-you-guys-think/#entry6861236 I reduced the heat soak effect in the R33 that usually take place in the section of the intercooler pipe that goes over the top of the radiator by totally reversing the flow path between the turbo and the throttlebody, so that the pipe crosses over the radiator BEFORE the intercooler. Any heat soak caused by the radiator is removed by the intercooler before entering the throttlebody. I mean, what's the use of having an intercooler when the intake flow is heated up again by the radiator's heat soak before entering the throttlebody ??? I also added some fibreglass exhaust bandage to wrap up that section of the intercooler piping to reduce the heat soak even more. Something I did which you can't see in my photos is I mounted a 10in thermo fan on the backside of the intercooler and have intercooler fan relay triggered by the speedo signal - the fan comes on when the speed drops below 80 km/hr (as the air-to-air intercooler effectively does not start working until the car is up to speed) and turns itself off when up to speed. Well, my FMIC is working AT ALL TIMES which helps the intake temps big time - especially when the engine is making power taking off from stationary. The last thing - I installed a intercooler water mister (NOT SPRAYER) which is triggered by a Hobbs (pressure) switch, set to kick in at 5 psi before full boost.... You see on Youtube a lot of these water sprayer systems some people are using that gives them streams of water like pissing on the intercooler are in fact quite useless. More physics - the more surface area on water 'droplets' the more evaporative cooling effect takes place. The finer the droplets the more surface area there is. The nozzles I used are 0.2mm brass units with ball bearing anti-drip fittings designed for industrial evaporative cooling on big machines. This combined with a high pressure water pump (not the useless windscreen pump !) generates a extremely fine mist. I have 4x 0.2mm nozzles mounted around the bumper opening aiming away towards the front of the car. The water misting and intercooler fan gave me an additional 9kw at the rears. That'd be the cheapest 9 kw on the entire car considering the more powerful the car gets, the more expensive each additional kw becomes.

yep, Im a f*#kwit..... lol lets see who the real f*#kwit is when their compressor blades and core bearings are all screwed up.....

No ? Well, you go ahead and flutter away and just dont come back crying when your core bearings and compressor blades are all stuffed. lol

You f*#@Kin idiots..... The 'flutter' sound is called compressor surge. it is NO GOOD for your compressor blades, it slows down your turbo from spooling in between gears and in worst cases, f*#ks up your compressor blades. Sometimes when people get too ambitious with sizing their aftermarket turbo and get the housing sizes wrong, or over fueling at idle because they didn't reconfigure their fuel map properly after they fit a bigger turbo, compressor surge OR 'flutter' is the result. The whole purpose of having a BOV is to release the excess boost so it doesnt slow down your turbo in between gears.....its for response.....WTF would you sacrifice response for a sound ?????? fu*kin idiots Man, I really wish these kids learn about the fundamentals of engine mechanics before they make a total dick of themselves or worse, totally ruin their cars.

Hi all, I imported my car with a single Bride bucket a while back, it's the old school type in the traditional purple trim / fabric material with black centres - most that I've come across has the grey centres where the multiple 'BRIDE' logo is, mine has the black centre. I'm after another one to match the one I've got, It doesn't matter if it's fixed back or reclinable (reclinable preferred tho) as long as it's in good condition with no damage. I'm willing to pay up to $500 as long as the condition warrants it. I'm after another one of this type instead of getting another matching pair altogether because I KNOW these ARE genuine BRIDE and not some Taiwanese copies.

BRAND NEW BUDDYCLUB SPEC II 3 INCH STAINLESS EXHAUST Hi all, I have a brand new, still in the box, BuddyClub spec II 3-inch light-weight stainless steel cat-back straight-thru exhaust system for all R33 (GTR & GTS25t) for sale...I imported it for $850 a few years ago but didn't end up using it. Gotta remember tho, however supplied with a bolt-on silencer for driving to the track, it IS bloody LOUD.....I heard the exact same system on my mates track car and it sounded like a F1 car on a drive-by down the main straight at the old Oran park circuit. Just think, before the whole Titanium movement, this light-weight stainless system was the gold for track / race cars. Check it out at : http://www.buddyclub...fler_spec2.html Please message me if interested. I imported it for $850 shipped to my door and it has never been test fitted, installed, mocked fitted what-so-ever.... IT'S BRAND NEW IN BOX WITH BOLT-ON SILENCER. Make me a reasonable offer and it's yours BUT ONLY CASH ON PICK UP IN WESTERN SYDNEY Thanks for looking.

Gotta remember this is my 'other' car and also my daily so I didn't want to go too crazy with it. Having said that, sometimes all bets are off when I visualize something special in my mind, I just tend to forget or can't help myself and end up picking up the tools... Other modifications I have done include removing the air con system. I also moved the fan / heater control unit to inside the glove box and getting rid of the stereo head unit to make room for my gauges - a total of seven gauges from the Autometer Cobalt series went into this car. Six (two rows) were flush-mounted on a carbon fibre panel at the centre console - Oil temperature, oil pressure, water temperature, voltage, wideband air/fuel ratio and D-PIC (G-forces), the boost gauge mounted on it's own in a carbon fibre cup on the top driver's side corner of the dash and the shift light was mounted on the steering column. A special touch - I had a custom rubber glare-cover made up for the shift light - Autometer make these in the traditional red, yellow and blue, I found this guy on Ebay that was making them with Holden, Ford and other muscle car-related logos, so I contacted him and had a few white ones made up with the 'Nismo' logo. A matching pair of Greddy turbo timer and boost controller were mounted inside one of the rectangular air con vents openings. I had the factory green dash lights replaced with blue led bulbs so the factory speedo and tacho blends with the aftermarket gauges. It now all looks factory-fitted at a glance.... At this stage, the 180km/hr speedo was replaced with a genuine Nismo 300km/hr version - I found this other guy selling a brand new one (still in the original Nismo box with the certificate !) he'd originally picked up from Japan years ago for his R33, nobody else bidded on it because the speedo was advertised on Ebay for an automatic, so I picked up a brand new $600 speedo for $80 ! The funny thing is the speedo's are all the same, all it needed was re-soldering of the tabs inside the speedo ! I also picked up a dash out of a V-spec GTR from which I got a GTR 10k rpm tacho instead of the GTS25t's 9k rpm version.... The one thing I'm currently thinking about doing is removing the factory water temp gauge (no point having two considering I have the Autometer one in the centre console) and relocating the shift light to that position instead of the steering column. On the suspension front, there's KYB shortened inserts at all four corners with heavy duty lowered springs, adjustable rear upper arms to dial out any potential camber-wear on the rear tyres due to the lowering and the staggered 19 inch Konig Netz rims. Any sudden instablity at the rear has been eliminated by the removal of the Hicas system and replaced with a solid bar. Adjustable caster arms have been installed at the front just for that little bit more self-centering of the steering. These are pretty much the essential street-spec bolt-ons. Brakes wise, standard factory front 4-spots are still in use, they've been rebuilt using a 'kit' from Melbourne's Race Brakes, they're mounted on custom-cnc'd doggy-bones and biting on the larger DBA 4000 series 324mm (GTR spec) slotted rotors, up from the original 298mm. The rear brakes are stock except for a pair of factory-spec slotted rotors. These brakes were transplanted from my other car which had absolutely no issues pulling up 400+rwkw each and every time, so they'll be fine in this application. I fitted R34 Brembo's on the other car and these weren't doing anything....so why not hey ? The factory two-piece main drive shaft was replaced with a custom one-piece item which I found a lot smoother. I'll dig out the photos taken during the build and post them up.... Oh btw, I have a brand new (still in the box) BuddyClub spec II straight-thru exhaust system for a R33 for sale if anybody is interested....I imported it from Japan for $850 a few years ago but didn't end up using it, make me an offer. Gotta remember tho, it does however come with a bolt-on silencer for driving to the track, but it IS bloody LOUD.....I heard the exact same system on my mates track car and it sounded like a F1 car on a drive-by down the main straight at the old Oran park circuit. Just think, before the whole Titanium movement, this light-weight stainless system was the gold for track / race cars. http://www.buddyclub.com.au/2007/racing_spec_muffler/racing_spec_muffler_spec2.html

What I mean is - take a look at the reflection of the fence in the panel, now imagine if that was the reflection of a brick wall, if there was any long/wide imperfections in the body work, you would be able to see the straight lines in the reflection distort as you're moving your vision up and down. Guide coating by lightly misting black paint only show high and low spots to a certain extend, you won't get the really light 'wobbles' even with a really long and/or wide block - I've gone as far as using a strip of non-flexible aluminium 100cm x 10cm in size as a block for guide coating and still found slight wobbles when I wet-check the reflections. NOTE: One common mistake a lot of people make is pushing down too bloody hard when they're wet rubbing during the guide-coating stage, what this does is warps the panel when you're cutting - use new 'sharp' 600 - 800 grit black paper with PLENTY of water to get rid of crap that clots the paper - either have a dripping hose at the lowest setting or a sponge and a bucket of water. Some people suggest adding a little shampoo, but I don't particular like that idea because if the soap is not washed off properly, it's a contaminate in itself... Let the actual paper do the cutting - you don't need to 'push' down on it - just let the paper glide on the water, you should be able to 'feel' and 'hear' the cutting of the high filler / primer. If the paper doesn't cut anymore, THROW IT OUT and use a new piece ! Wet/dry paper is cheap at a dollar a sheet ! This also helps explain why there is different colours for the etch primer, primer and high filler - it shows how far you're gone with the rubbing and when to slow down so you don't go too far ! With the high filler, I use the plastic stuff and doesn't absorb moisture. I used a total of 7 litres of plastic high filler - at about a hundred bucks a litre, it's not cheap, the plastic stuff is designed to be used with 2-pak system but you can use it with either acrylic or 2-pak. I'm a perfectionist and sometimes I see someone else's nice shiny beast cruising along at night, I get all excited and it's all let down when I notice a wobble in the bodywork as I'm driving past - I don't want any c*nt to see my car like that lol. I think the guide coating stage is the part I enjoy the most because I know I'm almost home and it's all down hill from there, having said that tho, it is also the most important stage because you know it's the stage where you can't miss anything - any mistakes here will show up at the end.....

Cheers....In regards to 'the thought' put into the various components, I didn't really have a choice ! After purchasing the car back in late 2004 (I was one of the first people with the later model facelift series II version of the R33 GTS25t), I lost my licence for a total of three years for being young n stupid lol and it was during this time when I applied a scientific approach to things with this car. There was a lot of R&D put into this car - I read an entire university text book on thermo-dynamics for an aeronautical engineering student before I cut into my turbo housings with a die cutter. I studied the way gases flowed inside circular piping and how it was all affected by different variables, including factors such as piping sizes, gas temperature, velocity and volume relative to the type and size of the turbine and compressor etc. This also domino'd into me learning how to read turbo-charger compressor maps - knowing how to apply the compressor map of a turbo opens up a whole new world of understanding ! but it's not exactly a walk in the park - some people picks it up with one browse and some people couldn't work it out after looking at it for a month lol Anyways, there are lots of people out there with fat wallets that just pick up a heap of HKS parts that they saw on every car in the last issue of Hpi - HOW BORING IS THAT ?!? Anyone can do that ! but if you actually took one close-up look, how many of these magazines cars actually have their engine bays painted ? One in four issues at my last count lol Anybody with money can bolt up a heap of aftermarket parts that's already anodised in pretty colours and polished to show-car spec, just like the exact same parts on every other car in the next SAU show-n-shine.... Now, can I spin all you guy out ? The satin black finish you see in these photos was actually done out-doors with no covering ! Yes ! there was no garage or car port.... I just threw the paint on there to see how she would turn out. The neighbours didn't speak to me for weeks lol. The original plan was just to see how she would look with the satin black. A lot of people say satin or matte black is easy to maintain as there is no waxing blah blah... that's utter BS ! You can touch up gloss black and buff out any inperfections but with satin, because the satin effect is in fact achieved by the actual texture of the finish, once it's scratched or damaged, you have to re-do the entire panel ! I have since lightly cut it all back and either going to re-do the top coat in jet black or wrap the entire car in that 3M satin wrap. So dont believe everything you read until you go to do it yourself ....

Thanks heaps guys. U dont know how much your comments mean to me. When I first did the engine bay, I didn't think it was 'good enough', I didn't actually show anybody until a close mate of mine popped over one day, took one look and told me that I was 'INSANE'. I didn't understand what he was on about at first. lol A few days later, I went to visit another mate; he said to me 'What did you do to your car ?' Apparently, the particular friend who told me that I was 'insane' had gone and spread the word that my engine bay is the best he'd seen in a long time....Considering that he owns and drives a show-spec high power Evo IX and hangs with people in the show scene, those comments are priceless. But I guess I didn't go out to build a show car, I just took my time and did what I love doing. I think the word is 'Passionate'. I've had several people since approach me offering me payments to do their cars and I've knocked them back - I'm not sure if I would apply the same attention to detail because it won't be MY car that they want me to work on. The other thing is that I don't know if they can afford the job ! Considering it took me a year and a half in body prep time on top of the four months for the engine bay.... Honestly tho, I remember once doing a 1:24 scale model of a Bomex-kitted Supra, it took me about 2 weeks to do just the 2JZ engine bay. I treated the engine bay of my R33 just like a model kit, but a 1:1 scale. I prep'd every individual component - every bracket, spring, clip, plug, bolt, nut etc etc before finishing them with the utter most attention to detail. If I know a particular washer is going to damage the paint finish under it, then I would cut out a washer out of thick gasket paper to protect the finish before fitting the washer...then I discovered nylon washers for that very purpose lol.... I thought out the way I would position every single component - for example, even the way the oil cooler is positioned changed three times so it made the most logical sense - heat raises, so I had direction of the oil flow going from top - down, but had the in/outlets facing in such a way so it would make it easy to drain the cooler during oil changes. I think the best thing I did was ceramic-coating the turbine housing, exhaust manifold and heat shields - oh btw, I didn't spend big bucks and had them sent away. I got a couple of cans of the ceramic-based spray-can finish from Supercheap Auto, I had to sand blast the parts and them cleaned properly with solvents before spraying the colour on. It had to be cured properly in an oven for a few hours. But once it's done, it's bloody rock-hard ! I tried several different colours and found the silver/grey turned out the best, it gave me that really nice semi-glossy 'alloy' finish. Even the radiator end-tanks and the top section of the intercooler piping that was wrapped in black exhaust bandage was done in the ceramic coating - this was done solely for the purpose of temperature control. Okay, I guess I'll share with you guys a few more 'tricks' I'd worked out during my project. The old saying that any finish is only as good as the prep work that's under it..... The final thing before the paint going on is the guide-coating. This is when all the ripples and shit gets taken out. If you miss this, it'll be all a waste of time. Different people have their own unique techniques of finding faults and ripples in the guide coating stage. The smaller ripples are easy to find, but the longer / wider ones that run the entire length of a panel are harder to notice. This is how I did it - park the car next to a brick wall, preferbly a wall with a lighter shade so you can see the lines in the brick work easily. Now, during the wet-rubbing, as you're moving in a up and down motion, look for the reflections of the lines in the brick work off the car body, if there are any wide and / or long ripples in the panels, the reflections of the lines will distort as you're moving. This is where the spray putty or high filler does it's thing.....

Several changes has since been made since the photo was taken a few weeks back. The oil catch was indeed fabricated with two inputs - one on top vertically of the other, one for each rocker cover. The small air filter at the top of the can has since been tapped and replaced with a 90-degree hose fitting with a hose plumbed back to the intake pipe. The oil has no issues heating up at all - even on the coldest of mornings. It may take a couple of extra minutes, but that's no major fuss. I do indeed have a carbon cannister, it's stashed behind the front bumper in front of the passenger side front wheel. It was on the opposite side in front of the driver's side front wheel from the factory but I needed to make room for the intercooler piping so I swapped it around to the passenger side. I've also got some wicked clamps as well - the really nice stainless steel T-bolt type made by Tridon, not the el-cheapo screw type that strip at the first sign of over tightening AND they're also not the cheap chinese-made T-bolt type with the long threaded part that poke out by about three inches. The ones I got are the really tidy ones with the allen head bolt, not cheap at about $8-$10 a pop for the 2.5-3.0 inch version but they'll last forever and the intercooler hoses will NEVER pop off. It took me ages to find them but I eventually found them at Autobahn of all places. I'd even got little ones for the radiator hoses - The clamps alone cost about $140 lol O well..... And the last of all, my fan...... yes, since I swapped the two intercooler pipes around, it wound indeed strike the fan, I have seen some people even cut the blades of the factory clutch fan to 'try' to solve that problem.....But I mean, that's totally stupid ! That would just reduce the effectiveness of the fan. So what I did was getting rid of the factory fan altogether and replaced it with a thin 16-inch thermo fan and mounted it on the radiator as close to the driver's side as I could and mounted the 10-inch thermo fan on the intercooler as close to the passenger side as possible so they don't overlap. Oh, I got rid of the window washer bottle - it now shares the water supply from the intercooler sprayer tank in the trunk/boot. The 287rwkw figure was dyno'd with a E11V2, Z32 AFM & a set of Nismo 740cc's (The photo was taken several weeks back before the dyno session) Before the paint job I deleted the boot lock / badge, the ariel on the left rear fender and also modified the centre garnish with the 'SKYLINE' lettering - I grinded the original moulded letters off, filled it with body filler and replaced it with chrome 'S-K-Y-L-I-N-E' badging from the later model R34. The badging are indeed genuine factory item I purchased from Nissan. Attention to detail much ? I know it's hard to make a R33 stand out from the other ten thousand out there on the street, but every little bit helps....

Hi guys, I spent a total of eight hours a day, seven days a week and a total of sixteen weeks doing just the engine bay of my '33, this is the end result. I started off doing a full strip of the bay, the only thing that was left was the head and block. Then I stitch-welded the strut tops and the suspension towers to stiffen it all up, painted the entire engine bay in the traditional GMH Black as well as the block. A genuine Nismo strut brace was added to help with the stiffening which has a built-in brake booster brace which helps with fire wall flex which occurs with excessive use of the brakes in these models. All the brackets etc was also detailed in GMH black, all factory fittings (screws & bolts) were replaced in stainless steel allen key style. I tried to retain as many original factory components as I could - a lot of people waste their money by replacing these parts with aftermarket 'bling' bits which does absolutely nothing but in fact made it worse off. For example, the aluminium intercooler piping, if you actually tested the temperture after a bit of driving compared to the factory steel items, the factory steel piping actually ended up a lot cooler than the aluminium pipes which suffered from a lot of heat soak ! Anyways, All the systems that I have seen have their intercooler piping past over the top of the radiator, which absorbs all the heat, before entering the throttlebody. If you actually took notice, I reversed the way the piping flowed compared to the traditional way that most people have theirs. With my setup, the piping past over the radiator BEFORE entering the intercooler - which makes a lot more sense - why would you have the inlet flow affected by heat soak after it's cooled down ? The inlet flow is affected the least with the way I have mine set up. I also reduced the effect of heat soak by wrapping this section of intercooler piping with exhaust fibreglass wrap TWICE. The exhaust manifold, factory heat shields and rear turbo housing have all been ceramic coated as well to help retain heat to make the whole system more efficient. All the aluminium components have also been polished by hand. A custom oil catch can have been fabricated in aluminium and mounted on custom radiator brackets which I'd also fabricated. The oil catch can has also been plumbed back into the inlet system so it's all legal. The factory BOV has been retained as well as I dont see the need to replace this perfectly good and functional part. An aftermarket 30-row oil cooler has also been installed between the radiator and intercooler. I have installed a 10-inch thermo fan on the passenger side of the intercooler (which can not be seen in this photo) - as we all know, air-to-air intercoolers dont actually begin to work until it gets up to speed of about 60-80km/hr, so I have this fan pumping at stationary and lower speeds and is triggered to switch off by the speedometer signal once it registers 80km/hr and above. A water-misting system is also hooked up with three jets for the intercooler and one for the oil cooler, jets are 0.2mm in size so a mist is actually produced and NOT a pissy drizzle like all the piss-pour efforts we see on Ebay. The brass jets are also hooked up to anti-drip valves so I dont lose all the water when not in use. This misting system in fact reduce the inlet temps by as much as 6-8 degrees ! A lot of internal work was carried out as well - the housings on the hi-flowed turbo were both extrude honed, ported and polished. Even the solid cast aluminium section just before throttlebody was opened up with a crazy dose of porting - a total of about 2mm was taken out of the ID of this section to help with flow. A split dump pipe was used with an extra bung welded in for the high resolution oxygen sensor to hook up the wideband air/fuel ratio gauge. The split dump hooks up to a HKS 3-inch front pipe before the high flow cat. An adjustable cam wheel was installed to dial in a few extra degrees of retard on the exhaust cam to retain a bit more heat in the exhaust housing - it's heat that drives the turbo ! This is in fact my daily driver which I dont want headaches from the law..... I call this 'Clean spec'. The only thing left to install is the 'opened up' factory air filter box. Then I challenge any cop to defect me ! The fact that this setup puts out just shy of 300kw at the rears, I dont think its too shabby at all. Sometimes power isnt everything....btw, I forgot to mention my other car is another R33 with a 3 litre stroker but that's just another story altogether....