Sammy

Yo, I have a near new (and i actually mean it, unlike those filthy looking turbos that people try to flog off as "only 500k's"): GT35R w/ 0.63 Exhaust Housing. I want to trade it for a Trust/Greddy T67 (or even possibly a TD06-20G, but preferably the former). I would like to trade (and cash adjustment, pending condition) if possible. If someone has a Trust/Greddy T67 for sale on its own, i might buy it anyway, but would prefer to trade. I will sell the GT35 for the right price too (2 dodo eggs?), but i'd really like to just trade it.

I have a near new (and i actually mean it, unlike those filthy looking turbos that people try to flog off as "only 500k's"): GT35R - 0.63 Exhaust Housing I would like to trade (and cash adjustment, pending condition) if possible. If someone has a Trust/Greddy T67 for sale on its own, i might buy it anyway, but would prefer to trade.

Yo, Car is running sweet and such since rebuild, albeit waaaaay too rich.. (RB20DET Silvia, in case you are wondering) SAFC says 0% throttle all the time, regardless of throttle. Voltage for signal wire at ECU AND TPS plug are both 0.01-0.02 max. I've tried a spare TPS, but i doubt thats the problem. Wiring maybe? I tried running an additional ground for the TPS wire to see if that was the drama, no luck. So the ground is fine. The power to the TPS i think is fine (5-volts), but the signal wire is doing SFA Ideas? Other than petrol and match Much appreciated, gotta get this sucker ready for a drift practice on boxing day

get a T3-T28 adaptor ta

ball bearing

sure is champ

T28/T2

when i blew my GT2840 (garrett BB), it cost about $500

they sure are. small exhaust housing = no lag (difficult in ye old rb20) but with plenty enough power to set fire to 2nd in a straight line coming onto boost

Item: HKS GT2530, 320HP rated, excellent responsive turbo for CA's, SR's, etc that want 200rwkw+ Condition: Bearings are gone, no damage to wheels, lack of oil cooked the bearings (only 6 months old) Price: $400 Location: Milton, Brisbane Contact: 0423 766 972 (sms only thanks), PM me, or post here.

Turbonetics turbo sold HKS GT2530 and Trust TD06-20G still for sale

Item 1: HKS GT2530, 320HP rated, excellent responsive turbo for CA's, SR's, etc that want 200rwkw+ Location: Milton, Brisbane Item Condition: Excellent. No shaft play, no damage to wheels, as new. All three turbos are this condition. Reason for Selling: Too many turbos, not enough cars to put them on Price and Payment Conditions: $1200. Comments: T28 flange (manifold and dump). Near new condition, no actuator (can use any T25/T28) Contact Details: 0423 766 972, Post here, or PM Item 2: TD06-20G, A little more hardcore. 400hp @ 1.5 bar on an SR is the normal going rate. I even ran it on my 4AGE to great success. Location: Milton, Brisbane Item Condition: Excellent. No shaft play, no damage to wheels, as new. All three turbos are this condition. Reason for Selling: Too many turbos, not enough cars to put them on Price and Payment Conditions: $1200. Comments: T28 flange (manifold and dump). Been rebuilt in the last 50km's (yes, 50, been off the road since doing so). Has a rear housing for an internal gate (ask for more info), but can be welded up and used externally gated, up to you. Item 3: Turbonetics T60BB Stage 3. This is a T3/T4 BB Turbo made by turbonetics, not a cheap ebay POS. Rated to 500hp, and similar wheel/housing specs to a garrett turbo we all love .. GT3071R. Cheap alternative that's just as good, if not better. Location: Milton, Brisbane Item Condition: Excellent. No shaft play, no damage to wheels, as new. All three turbos are this condition. Reason for Selling: Too many turbos, not enough cars to put them on Price and Payment Conditions: $700. Comments: T3 Flange. Externally Gated Contact Details: 0423 766 972, Post here, or PM Will post all gear inter-state for those interested. Any questions or queries feel free to ask.

i guess i am keen on learning what is wrong! sending it to someone every time u have a prob doesnt teach you anything, just gets you abig bill! but sometimes that is the best option!!! will consider once i ahve exhuasted all options!

oh i see, well i am borrowing someone elses working cas today to see if that makes a difference. Just in case, but i can smell fuel wen we try to start the car, from the engine. WOuld that mean the injectors are firing? i Assumed so! can u pm me ur number pls. You may be a very helpful source this afternoon thanks sammy

we assumed form the ticking that the injectors were running. is that not correct? we a re trying someone elses cas tomorrow i dont understand how that has to do with spark tho???

UPDATE!!! i bought a new ignitor for it today as we were previously getting 10v before on cranking and nothing after it. I put the new ignitor on and tested it, same thing happens. I have checked the ground with a multimeter , that is fine. I am very unsure here. Anyone know about installing coils? my number is 0403 756 879 call me or txt or whatever if you have anything helpful!!! I NEED ALL THE HELP I CAN GET - I WANNA GO DRIFTING LIKE NOW!!!!

The coils were wired in when the car was still working and were left wired wen we took the engine out. So all coils are still in the right order. The leads etc are all plugged up, but still no spark

All the coils are fairly (3 month) old bosch coils, which worked like a dream while the car was running Spark plug module = ignitor?? Or something else? My boyfriend thinks the starter motor isn't cranking the motor all too well, could this be a problem? Sounds normal enough to me The fuel pump is definitely working, injectors are ticking away, all instrument cluster stuff is working (including SAFC and RSM), so i don't know whats going on. What else to try?

Hey everyone. Need a bit of help, we are trying to start my rb20. It is cranking, but got no spark. It is a newly rebuilt engine, so its not blown or anything We are trying to work out whether there is something wrong with the ignitor. Now both the ignitor and engine are both grounded well. We were told to take readings of the voltage with a multimeter in the pins which connect to the ignitor. Now we have done that, however we are barely getting 1V to any one of these pins. WHAT DOES THIS MEAN??????? Im dying to get this car back on the road So please help!!!!!!!! Thanks Sammy edit: sorry about the terrible spelling!

hey everyone. need abit of hlp, we are trying to sart my br20. it is cranking, but got no spark. It is a new ngine so its not blon or anything We are trying to work out whether there is something wrong with the ignitor. Now both the ignitor and engine are both grounded well. We were told to take readings of the voltage with a multimeter in the pinks which connec to the ignotor. Now we have done that, however we are barely getting one volt in any of this pins WHAT DOES THIS MEAN??????? im dying to get this car back on the road so please help!!!!!!!! thanks sammy

Please PM me with a price then for the turbo bag and wastegate

Might be interested in the trust wastegate if it's genuine And possibly the turbo bag And possibly .. the list could go on

I'm pretty sure i just cut off the + battery connector, lengthened the battery cable to the boot, and put the - grounded to some bare metal on the boot

Brief rundown of car: RB20 powered silvia, just had a new engine in because old one leaned itself to death Hey guys, Just a little drama with the sil.. I moved the battery to the boot 2 months ago when the thing blew up, i'm pretty damn sure i did everything right/got a good ground, and that i didn't miss anything. I have power at the battery, starter motor, and obviously all of the main power cable going through the car.. I DONT have power to the ECU, to the fusebox in the engine bay, and nothing in the dash lights up (along with apexi SAFC) I HAVENT put a ground between block and firewall yet, doing that today, dont know how much of a drama this ground would cause by not being there? Before anyone silly asks, i have tried (4) different batteries

bump