sky30

Rb26 is still nearly 1/2 a litre less than Rb30, torque is still gona be a fair bit less.. All 3 boxes i destroyed had stripped 3rd gear, every time it happened i was accellerating hard in 3rd, then BANG.... One decent R33 box is cheaper than several Rb20 boxes.

The torque can easily shread the rb20 gearbox, i broke the original RB20 box, and 2 vl 5speeds(similar gearbox) over about a year, but they all were punished hard and pushed beyond the limit.... The VL n/a boxes are cheap and readily available, but I ended up finding a R33 turbo box at the right price, seems to be doing the job OK.

I got the motor from a wrecker in Adelaide, came out of a front cut with 74,000kms. You could use it in a turbo application, but you would have to run less ignitioin timing as the compression would be higher than a turbo rb25. Cant see why it wouldnt work ok with mild boost.

For Sale RB25 n/a bottom end, low kms, good condition, hone marks clearly visable. Ive used the head off this motor and have no use for the bottom end. Can organise freight in Australia, offers around $500

RB26 wont have the off boost street drivablility of the RB30, and RB26 costs more, why would you.....

Joel- EGT gauge?? Is that Exhaust Gas Temp?? I dont run one, never realy heard alot about them, what can they do?

My motor/head, turbo ,Microtech ECU, and Fuel system has cost around $5500, I must say that all that money has been spent purely on parts, ive done all work and tuning myself, so it would cost alot more than that to pay someone else...

yeah, still using GTR springs, plan to use them with the new cams.

SK- If i was to run more boost with the correct a/f ratios and ignition timiing , do you think the motor would handle it?? Joel- On the dyno it makes peak power at around 6000rpm, and starts to drop off, but on the road its hard to notice this, and it seems to pull hard all the way to 7000rpm. not too sure why. Darren- The tomei cams are RB20det cams, they also fit the rb25de.

Joel-cams im getting are tomei 260 degrees 8.8mm lift for both inlet and exhaust, which makes a fair improvement over the stock items. SK- I set the A/F ratios to run at flat 12:1 at full load, using bosch o44 and rx7 injectors. Its a fair bit of power for a stock motor to handle, be interesting to see how long it lasts. Ive kept the rev limit fairly low at 7000rpm.

Tunned my car a bit more yesterday, my RB30det made 290 RWKW on 19.5psi, still using the stock RB25 n/a cams, and stock VL bottom end. Cant wait to get some decent cams in it.

Mounts are easy, just weld up the existing holes, and drill new ones lower on the mount. 20 minutes work.

GTST:- What you can calculate on paper doesnt always turn out that way in the real world. The increased fuel pressure makes the injectors flow a fair bit more. All i can say is ive done it with 2 of my own cars, a few mates also run good power with stock injectors, so ive seen it work many times. Why not give it a try.

Id reccomend Shaun at Boost Worx. He does alot of work on turbo cars. Boost Worx:- 82990621

GTST:- Yes, stock 270cc injectors with a regulator running 42 psi at idle ( i think around 75-80psi at full boost). The car also had a bosch pump fitted, which is also going to help. What makes that so hard to beleive, i also had a vl with the stock 270cc injectors and a rising rate reg running similar power. The rising rate regulator make a big difference, before fitted my car ran lean at 200 rwkw, with the reg fitted 240rwkw with more to go. I know of a garage thats seen 260kw at the wheels with the stock rb20 injectors, but that is Maxed out. A lot of people seem to underestimate what stock injectors can flow when used with a regulator, you can save alot of money by keeping them till you must upgrde.

With my stock RB20 injectors and a rising rate reg, i made 240rwkw, at only about 70% duty cycle. You could hold off on the RX7 injectors for a while and save cash there. The biggest cost saver id say is using the RB30E bottom end in total stock form (not Rebuilt), and just bolt the head straight on. Theese motors are incredible, every stock motor i have seen pulled down still has all the hone marks clearly visable, even with 250, 000+ kms on the clock. The motor i used in my conversion had 287,000kms on the car i got it out of, has lasted me 18+ months with over 3 time stock power. If theres nothing wrong with a motor, why waste money rebuilding it to the same stock specs???

Shaun at boost Worx is a top bloke, ive had my car tunned there once. I do alot of the tunning myself on my mates dyno. I also did all the mechanical work myself, so you save lots there aswell. I dont mind helping out, as i know myself how hard it is to get info on the conversion, when i did it a couple of years ago there wasnt much info around at all, now theres a fair bit of talk about the RB30 DET.

If you were to sell the RB20 complete, then buy every thing you need, you would probably be up for more cash than you get for a RB20. id keep it, maybee sell the head when your done. I Did the conversion into a R32 fairly cheap buy using a complete stock $100 n/a bottom(not rebuilt) and just buying a RB25 n/a Head$700 . I used stock head gasket, stock injectors with a $200 regulator, and a $300 hi-flow RB20 turbo(which i already had) It made 240 RWKW at around 16-17psi, with massive torque, boost came on hard at 2000rpm. A great upgade over the RB20 for alittle under $1500. The only real modification needed to fit the engine in the R32 was a Slight lowerng of the engine mounts (only 20 minutes work) The rest of the converion is pretty much bolt up, bolt in. Ive since upgraded the turbo to a GT35/40 on the stock manifold, now making 270 RWKW at 17psi with lots more boost to come.

I run 24-26 psi cold on the street with 225 45 17 tyres, have had no problems with wear, and traction is lots better than with 30+ psi.

When can you send one out, im in S.A, what freight do you use??

Get a Short peice(around 200-300mm) of chain, or rope, and bolt one end to the flywheel in the existing clutch bolt holes, then bolt the other end to one of the gearbox mount holes on the edge of the block. Now the flywheel can only turn as far as the chain will let it. You can use the same method to tighten them. Another method is to use a large screwdriver to hold the teeth on the flywheel, put the screwdriver through the starter motor hole and wedge it between 2 teeth, and the base of the starter motor hole. Good luck

When i first got my R32 i did some basic mods(ehxaust, intercooler, boost and tune) which it made 190 rwkw, and ran 12.9 @117 mph on street 17" tyres. The mods didnt cost much at all ( around $1500) and left me with a close to stock 12 sec street car.

Have had no problems using GTR springs with the rest of the valvetrain stock.

Im pretty sure tomei also make the 260, and 270 in a 8.8mm that suit hydraulic lifters.

GTR springs are longer, so will give more seat pressure. The N/a springs proved to be too soft in the RB30det i built, so upgraded to GTR stock springs, they fixed the problem.