darkoh69

No I see relevance in this. It seems like your saying ‘oem very good, but thermos are very good also.’ & ‘In your experience falcon thermos are better’.

Should’ve had electric fans engine probably still be spinning 😜

Ok ok I’ll change it back.🤐

Theres nothing wrong with an electric fan setup if its setup right. Mine keeps it at least as cool as a stock setup. Most later model cars run em.

Factory stuff broke years ago. All I could get at the time was a 14 inch electric & a cheap Chinese thick alloy radiator which for many years after never let me down which is why I said what I said

Yeah that is an idea. & I dont wana sound like I don’t appreciate your advice but the as the old saying goes if aint broke dont fix it

Sorted!! F**king loving it! Ditched the twin fan setup for the single 14. Running perfect! Cheers robbo_rb180 because the twin fans were brand new, if you hadn’t mentioned it I wouldn’t have even spared a thought for them being the issue! I know its not the clutch fan setup every one suggests but its a win either way. So cheers to everyone for chiming in, made my year ya bloody legends!!!

None taken. I hear what your saying. I know the clutch fans are good but unfortunately the blades on my fan bowed & chewed out the radiator not long after I got the car. So Ive had a 14 inch elec on an alloy rad ever since. It was all I could scrape together at the time & didn’t let me down for quite a few years. But when the old alloy did fail the only thing Ive put on there thats different is the twins. Pressure test has held 1.1 bar for 30 minutes now, is that enough pressure to test it with? What possible causes could that remove from the list?

Plumping configuration should be ok I put the ffp on a few years ago & its been on the dyno twice since then. But when I was putting it back on after the head was back in I could have nicked the plenum to head gasket. It would be just my luck to fix a problem only to cause another problem with the same symptoms. Ive got a new aeroflow 14” fan coming today the twin 10s are really the only thing that’s different in my setup & probably the easiest job to check off the ‘possible cause’ list.

Yeah as soon as I see the gauge on the dash start moving anything above halfway which it never usually would I nurse it back down my driveway.

Only the factory gauge & the digital readout on the fan controller in the engine bay. Seen it a touch over 90 degrees C

Havnt been on an extended drive because Im sure it would keep getting hotter. Havnt pressure tested it yet but yeah I’ll have to. I was wondering about the plenum leaking coolant, could that cause the steamy tailpipe? Hopefully because Ive been trying to push the block issue to the back of my mind but the steam keeps bringing that thought right back to the front. The only thing that seems to have changed after doing the HG is the miss at startup, which I figured was from water seeping into #4 overnight & looking at the old gasket kind of confirmed it. Appreciate your input. Appreciate everyones input

Yeah could be the fans. I was running a single 14 on my previous rad before this started happening with no issues ever. Infact the alloy radiator & that single 14 was the first mod I did to the car 7 or 8 years ago

Yeah fine at idle.

Do koyo flow water around & though the whole rad or does the water fall straight down from inlet to outlet?

I think so. Ffp dosnt have a bleed screw so I drive it up on ramps & thread tape an upside down coke bottle in top of rad. Idled till running temp heater on full gurgled a lump of air out once stat opens.

Hey. A 10 month old ongoing overheating problem thats just pushed me close to breaking point. 33, S2, 322kw. Nistuned with all the usual mods an unopened engine would need for those numbers. Was tuned & went ballistic for about 12 months. Then about 10 months ago picked up a pinhole in the Chinese rad Id had it on there for a couple years & it was 2nd hand when I got it so I wasn’t surprised when it finally let go. Car got a little warm, not boiling but around 3/4 on the factory gauge. I wasn’t far from home so no problem I thought. I shopped around for a decent new rad I was targeting Mishmoto but at the time Covid supply chain issues & container ships stuck in Panama canal there was nothing decent in the country so I ended up getting another cheap Chinese one from redline performance with accompanying twin thermos. Chucked it in wired it up bled it out 1st drive & started warming up again so straight home. Thermostat I figured. So got a new 1 chucked it in & no change. Water pump I thought next. New one in still no change, sits at half on the gauge for 30-45 minutes no problem . As soon as I leave my driveway temperature starts going up. Needed a break from it so I parked it up for a couple of weeks. Next attempt I started her up & for about 10 seconds it was down on a cylinder then quickly came right, narrowed it down to cyl#4 only for a few seconds after the first startup after sit a few hours. Same time I noticed some tail pipe steam. So head gasket I thought. A few months later I got a Tomei 1.2 thick, arp2000 studs, all the other bits Id need & whipped the head off sent it to get tested dipped & skimmed. Bolted it all back together & today started it up bled the air out it sat & idled held running temp for 30-45 minutes as soon as I left my driveway the f**king c*nting sl*t started heating up again. Any ideas anyone?

Yeah 08U series 0 rb25 i think

25de+t head on 26det block I got an r32 gts recently. its a bit of a Frankenstein project in that its running an RB25de+t head(08U) on a RB26det block(05U). A gtr ecu untuned Im assuming, & gtr injectors. When I first got it, it was running real rough & would only start aided with engine start. I couldnt find a resistor pack in the loom so I peeled it open & found that someone has wired 10w10ohm resistors inline on each injector. So I got an OEM gtr resistor pack & wired it into the loom now it starts like it should but its still running rough. It idles fine & slowly rides off in first ok but as soon as I give it a bit more gas it coughs & misses. Im just looking for some advice/input/interest in this thing to keep me motivated on getting it running right.

1 being stock, 7 being wet dream, id give it a solid high 2 to low 3ish. just bolt it on

not guna bother with dyno. video maybe 1 day if i get round to it

I just put this on my 25det. Goes hard! Whats wrong with yours?

Is there a guide available on how to re-install both airbags 33 s2 please!!? (Sorry if im not supposed to post this here)