Scooby_Steve

Doesnt the manual/book for the brand of sparkies tell what the gap is?

Hi, So can you say that fuel with 98RON rating even with/without Ethanol WILL be safe for RB20's RB25's and RB26's regardless of what brand (shell, BP, mobil)?

I thought it might be something to do with clutch or g/box as like i said, foot on clutch = no noise, foot off clutch = tick tick. thanks guys.. by the way, expensive to fix?

Hi, I've just noticed that my car when i start it up and sit on idle, i can a hear a ticking sound from the engine bay. However, the minute my foot presses the clutch (or even just taps it with a small amount force) the noise goes away. It then returns if my foot comes off the clutch and the car sits running idle. Any ideas? Should i be worried?

Hi, I'm interested the rear pods... I assume they will fit a 33 GTST? So if you could pm with price and pic. thanks

PM'd you about foglights.

give erasing the code a go and if dont work then try what i've said. Also, determine when the light is popping up. eg. is it showing up as soon as the motor is started or is only when you start to move. If is as soon as you start the car, there is a very good chance it is the relays. If it is only when you move, then it could be sensors.

So, for a 33 GTST that rarely gets a good opening, majority of trips are short (about 5-10kms) and pretty much doesnt get driven all that much, would the 10-60 be too thick? Because i am using the 10-60 in my car now and i find that 2kms down the 5km trip, the temp on the my car has only just started to climb. So would the 5-30 be a better go? Also would it handle the once in a long while thrashing and the occasional longer trip about 100kms?

Hi, Mate, check your abs relays (in a little black box attached to the ABS motor?). My ABS light came up after i taped up my coils. I took my car to an autoelectrician who wasted my money (didnt know shit and told me what i had told him when i dropped the car in). But do take the car to an autoelectrican and test to see if the relay's are working. If they aren't you need to get new ones. i got my from RS components but an auto-electrician might be able to get them for you. They're about $10 each (there are two relays). Hope this helps.

Hi All, I've changed my plugs with NGK BCPR6ES (i think that's it) which are standard gapped to 0.8mm and wound down the boost to run 10 or 10.5 (needle on boost gauge is half between 10 and 11). The 33 seems to run quite well. However saying that, the old plugs didnt look to bad either but who cares when the car is running much better. thanks alot.

thanks mad082.

Hi, Interested in the cooler. Can you guarantee that it's OK? If so, definitely interested. Can you find out postage to Cairns, 4870? Thanks.

Hi Guys, I bought myself a set of BCPR6ES but i remember reading somewhere that they should be the BCPR6ES-11. The only difference i believe is that the BCPR6ES has a standard gap whereas the BCPR6ES-11 had a gap of 1.1mm. I measured the gap of the BCPR6ES using a feeler gauge and it was 0.8mm (which is what ideally would like the gap to be anyway). So I assume the BCPR6ES is what most people are using not the BCPR6ES-11, that's if they are using just the standard copper plugs rather than the iridiums. Am I correct? Please correct me if i'm wrong as i will be putting in my plugs today. thanks

CONSIDER IT SOLD!! j/k!!!

I forgot to add one thing... could be important.. the car seems to backfire a lot when changing gears or going down hill with no acceleration.

Hi Guys, Going to buy some sparkies for my 33 GTST this weekend. Mad082 posted the part numbers BCPR6ES but why is it when you go to the NGK site, if you choose RB25DET the part number PFR5G-11 comes up? Any ideas? I'm just a lil confused on which ones i should get. Also I assume i would have to gap these plugs?

I didnt notice this problem until last weekend when i went for a long drive and needed to overtake. But the period after re-oiling, i didnt have any problems. And yes i would love to buy new coil packs but i dont have the money yet. Well, i'll wind the boost down first and get new sparkies and have em gapped. Then i'll see how it goes.. I'll clean the AFM anyway. Thanks guys.. will keep you posted.

Hi, So from what you guys have said, i could possibly have a bad airflow meter?

Hi, Might just have to wind the boost down... That seemed to fix the problem too a while back but ...yeah because winters here maybe that's causing it to play up.

Hi, Thanks for the replies.. Just wondering why when i overtake i 4th or 5th and i slowly put the pedal down it doesnt cut out but when i plant it, the fuel cut comes in... could this be because of a bad bleeder/boost value? Also, i havent changed my sparkies in a while so maybe i will this weekend and i'll gap them. Anyways, thanks guys again.

Hi Guys, Just hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I've got a 96 R33 GTST with K&N Pod, 3" Zorst, BOV and FMIC with boost around 11-12psi (done by a Turbosmart manual bleeder value). When i go to accelerate (overtaking on the highway) you can hear the pod filter etc going crazy sucking in air but the car doesnt really take off (it used too and it isnt just that i'm used to the car.. i've had it for 2 years and i know somethings wrong). It will take off but struggles and it surges and then hits flat spots and then surges again all the way up the rev range. Seems like something is holding it back. I do have dud coils but i have taped them with electrical tape and they seem to be ok for a $10 fix (they are really bad without taping). I have cleaned my AFM once before when i had a very similiar situation and it seemed to have resolved the problem but i dont want to keep getting this problem. I've only driven the car about 2000kms in the last 6mths (also since i cleaned and re-oiled the filter). Also when travelling on the highway and going to over take (whether in 4th or 5th gear), if i just hammer it, my car cuts out (like the fuel-cut comming in) but if i slowly climb there is no cut out. If anyone can suggest where i should look at, i'd appreciate. thanks

Hi, Does this motor still run and is it in good running order??

Hi, is this just the block, or is it the whole motor, ecu and wiring etc?

Mate, i'm chasing the whole rear suspension assembly, u know the cradle, diff, shocks, springs etc. How much do you want for it?

Hi Can anyone tell if a R33 GTST rear suspension assembly (cradle, diff, shocks, springs) will bolt straight up to a S13? Any help and other suggestions will be great. thanks Steve