poeticjustice88

Do u still have the turbo? How many k's and what conditio ?

Hey all, I am looking at buying a turbo off of a forum member, I will keep the identity between him and I as I believe that is the proper thing to do. I have put a deposit down on it but I am curious. The owner states it is an R33 turbo which has been high flowed but the rear wheel has not been changed to a steel one. So I am curious as to whether there are different "stages" of high flowing for lack of a better word. The turbo in question was high flowed by a previous owner, so the current has limited knowledge as to its modifications. But we do know for certain that the front housing has been machined out. Is it possible that only the front of the turbo, so the compressor wheel and housing were upgraded? And if so, is this still considered a "high flowed" item? I have faith in the seller and I am not trying to deny his knowledge, nor am I denying his legitimacy, as I said, I have already put some money down on the turbo, I just want to know exactly what has been done to it is all. I found this information on the Garrett page "What is High Flowing? High flowing a turbocharger involves fitting a larger compressor, or turbine wheel to a turbocharger to improve its physical flow capabilities. Take a VL Commodore turbo for instance, this will be stripped, cleaned, reconditioned, and at the same time, fitted with a compressor wheel that has a larger inducer, and exducer measurement. The fitment of the larger compressor wheel also means that the compressor housing will require machining to fit the larger wheel. As this wheel is now larger than factory, this would be classified as a "high flow" turbocharger, as the compressor wheel is "higher flowing" than the standard item. All of this process is done in house at GCG Turbochargers. High Flowing usually adds 1-2 days turnaround on top of a standard repair." In this quote it says that they fit a larger compressor wheel, or turbine wheel. Does this mean that only the compressor"front" wheel is changed, and not the rear? Kind Regards, Michael

but that is what i am saying. with these club regos, i have spoken to three people in recent days with them with insanely loud hot rods. (i am only using the hemi in example as it was, by a freaking mile, the loudest) according to him the thing was legal at whatever thousands of decibels it was at. BECAUSE it had a club rego. No I do not usually take people for their word if I do not know them, or they are claiming something crazy like this, but in the 40 min talk we had at that servo, there was not a single thing he said to me that was not clarified by something else he said. Wen he told me he had 6 hot rods at home I was a little bit iffy, then he started telling me what was in them and showing me pics in his garage. What I am saying, is there is no reason he would have lied to me about the rego compared to the other things he said, and I believed him. In his claim, his 605 blown hemi was legal

even with these hot rodders with club rego. if i only drive my car twice a month on normal rego, and it is a 1/4 of the volume of this blown 605 hemi i am talking about. What makes his car any better for the other drivers around ??? it is illegal unless i pay for it up front? what kind of bullshit laws are they. if you can legally drive a hot rod with an engine louder than a f**ken indy car just because of some rego, i see no difference why i shouldnt be allowed to do the same. It makes his car no less of a distraction the fact he has some fancy rego sticker. nor does it make it safer. it is bullshit regardless how you look at it

Oh no I am not pointing the finger. Simply saying that the hot rods and harleys seem to get away with it. As I have never seen one of either that would be legal volume so I assumed they had a permit A nd if that was the case, I was complaining about how their cars at 5x the volume are not a problem and mine is

As it has been mentioned. We gotta get thr harleys off the road. But the other day I am at the servo. And I hear the greatest sound to ever grace my ears. It was a purple 1970 'cuda with a blown 605 cube hemi pulling her along. I want to know how it was legal to have something that loud on the road yet I get pulled over for a skyline with a zorst. Now you have to understand how loud this thing was. I heard it honest to god 3 minutes before I saw it. When it finally came to view, I rolled into the servo running on this monstrous mechanical camshaft lobing at around 2000rpm. Three people filling their cars up threw their hands over the ears. People inside the serrvo started coming out as they had no idea what it was. This car was in fantastic condition. I got talking to him and told me it had 1400 hp and 800 ft pnd of torque. The kind of numbers that could dwarf nearly any car on this website AND be legal. Just because it is a classsic or he may have some fancy hot rod rego makes it no less of a distraction to drivrrs as my car ata tenth of the volume. So how can they justify making it legal. Even if it only gets driven once a month or whatever on the rego it might have. That one drive a month would scare more drivers then I could in a year If I tried

Also invest in some copper anti seize for 10 bucks or so. This way in a years time you can still get them off

M10x 1.25 studs. Get them fron your local nut n bolt shop. You can get any material and the nuts washers n spacers for them. I got my full set for $23

Ok so I drfinately have a vacuum leak or busted gasket somewhere. f**k, whrre do I start to look

I have an rb20det in my vl. The afm is located in the intercooler pipe just before the tb. I have read the topics on thr placement saying it does run better in this position but you need to retune the car for it. My question is, as I have stock ecu it obviously has not been tuned for this afm placement. So would it be a good idea to put it back before the turbo or leave it where it is

Ok answer me this. I have no bov so I have "dose". I know that you can have the dose sound while not being in positive pressure. Like the boost gauge not hitting zero yet. Because I have a t04e it takes ages to get boost. But shouldn my gauge read zero with just my foot flat even if the turbo is not making boost? I ask coz atm I rarely see it go past zero. But at the same time, at wot it slowly climbs to zero and I hardly see it there either Sorry if this is confusing, I cant think of the best way to describe it

I dont have a tacho at the moment. Rather thrn using the in dash vl onr I will get a decent 5 inch. Is the best way to wire ot to the coil signal or from a pin on the ecu,? I knpw the ecu has a speed signal out. Does it have similiar for rpm Cheers

I know the cooler pipes and zorst would need to change. But I am not worried about that. Just the big stuff like actually fitting. The loom I also knew. I want the 30 back, not sure if going 25 head or not. A lot of power can be made with just the sohc. I just wanted to see if anything like mounting points would have been changed to put the 20 in. So that I know what I need to change back. However. If I am going throigh all this trouble, would it be worth it more to just drop in a 25? Or does that involve custom work and different mounts?

Hey all. I need to know where YOU have your boost gauge vacuum line connected to on YOUR rb20det. I have read heaps of different things on the interwebz so please don t just tell me to google it. mine is connected at the back of the plenum. But i do not think i am getting the right reading. Which is why i want to know where YOURS is tapped into. Also, do i need to run the boost line to the little black box that is stock with the rb20det or can i just go straight to the plenum ?

have you tried what I mentioned ?

I have a vl with an rb20det. Was wondering if the 30 would drop straight back in or if there would have been mods done to it to fit the 20 that I would have to reverse

I would prefer anything with 5 bolt garrett or 3" V-Band, but I am happy for anything as dump pipes are readily available. Its just i already have a 3" V-Band dump aswell as a 5 bolt to v band adaptor. Obviously, I am definately interested in things like high flowed r33 items. I am also very interested in any T25 flange items. I would not want any smaller than a 28 from a silvia, as these are really the same as 33 turbos, some however are BB. But if you have a decent size t25 flanged turbo, I would be very interested in it. 2860's,2871, 2876, 3037,3071, 3076. VERY INTERESTED IN THESE MODELS !!!!! I am not after brand new, nor am I after the prices that come with them. I couldnt care less about a brand name as long as it performs well If you have something like these please let me know. I am in Southport on the Gold Coast QLD, so if you could put up your postage price, just the basic postage package I would be appreciative. I think a general price for a turbo would be about $30 however. If you cant tell by now, I am very keen to get a different turbo for my 20 than I already have

It is a china t04e. I am only putting 8 pound through it, and hardly ever have my foot down long enough to see that. So I am not worried about flow or anything.

Looking for a turbo to suit my RB20DET. The car is currently running a china T04E and I am sick of having no boost till 4000RPM. I am looking for anything suited to the RB20 engine. Standard R33 turbo would be fine, a TD05 would be perfect, but if you have one sitting around, post up what it is AND THE CONDITION IT IS IN and I will get back to you

the red top had both ECCS and NICS, and my rocker covers are black. Next idea ?

just curious as to what power the stock manifold are good to flow for. I have an aftermarket low mount manifold at the moment, but it is of shit quality and I was thinking it might be a good idea to go back to the stock mani, but I did not know if they were any good. Can anyone shed some light on whether it would be worth it or not ?

*Specifications at Half-Page* I am after $200 for BOTH of the monitors including the fantastic, sturdy, strong stand, power cables for both monitors aswell as two VGA cables. Can post at buyers expense, or deliver withing an hour of the Gold Coast, Southport area. With post, beware, the stand is roughly 8 kg's, plus the two monitors comes to about 11 kg's. So post might be expensive. I can also supply a seperate video card to suit any system (excluding MAC, Apple) at an additional cost, rangine between $30 and $60. This is for a basic video card, if you would like to purchase, or enquire about a performance video I can also supply. Just call me on the number provided and we can arrange anything. These would be perfect for a student or office workers. If you have never used dual screen setup you will adjust to the difference in seconds and you will never look back. Your abilities to multi-task triple and dual setups make working soo much easier. having documents on one screen with your information and excel on the other means no Alt+Tab to get your work done. As an ex student myself, these things are lifesavers for essays or research. You can even hook them both up to your laptop (as long as your laptop has dual screen out) so you dont HAVE to have a pc to utilise these beauties. Make sure before looking at buying thse that you are certain you can run dual screens. Look at the back of your PC tower where your monitors connect to, as long as you have two monitor connections, you can use these. 90% of the time, without additional software as most machines can easily perform with these standard. Dual monitors on sturdy stand. Fantastic condition, as new condition. no scratches or dead pixels. The stand is metal, strong and heavy, no threat of breaking or tipping, unless pushed over. The monitors are Hewlett Packard HPs1932. Proper WIDEscreens, LCD. They are both 18.5 inches in fantastic condition. Proper 16:9 ratios as they are widescreen. 500:1 minimum contrast ratio, 700:1 typical contrast ratio. nice and bright without being full of glare. They are 5ms typical response time. Good for gaming without ghosting. Anything under 10ms is considered great for gaming. I have not used them for games, only office work, so i can not comment on their gaming performance. They are both anti glare and anti static. Both with VGA plug connections Thin black edge surrounds again with zero scratches. I have upgraded to dual 27" monitors so obviously have no use for these. As for gaming. Triple screens are better as your character does not sit in the middle of the two screens, right where the border is betwee the two. But some games, for instance World of Warcraft have the ability to use an addon CTViewPort to put the image on both screens, but leave your character in the centre of one. Meaning you retain original character location, but you have an additional screen with extra landscape, and you can put your map, chat logs, bags, additional action bars, any extra addon ui's on the second screen, keeping your main screen primarily for your character and ESSENTIAL information. Instantly un-clutter-f*cking your main screen making your gaming experience better ten fold.

Just curious as to what can be done with engine numbers I have an RB20DET in a VL Calais, but have no clue what series rb it is, or what it is from. Is there any way to search the engine number to find out what it came from, or any info on it for that matter? Also, where do I find the engine number ROFL Kind Regards, Michael

have you checked the clearances in your valves ? can cause excessive ticking

Anyone? I just need to know what type of sealant to use to make the gaskets