poeticjustice88

i want to go over the car and check it all out for air leaks. But i can not afford the gaskets that are needed for everything. So I am curious as to whther it would be suitable and safe enough to reseal all my gaskets with gasket goo? If so what type of gasket goo do i use? Ultra grey, ultra blue, what type? Kind Regards, Michael

I have stock standard RB20det ecu, not an aftermarket. Could it still be an ECU tune issue, or just a matter of adjusting the AAC and air reg under the plenum?

Hey everybody. I have a question concerning my idle When cold, so first start in morning it idles at around 1100 for the first minute and slowly climbs to about 1800-2000 rpm to warm up the engine. When warm it drops down to the allocated 800 rpm. My question is, is there any way to lower the high revs when cold to say 1400-1500 rpm and keep the 800 rpm when warm idle? I ask because it takes about 10 mins of driving to get it to the warm idle. Sometimes I can make it to where ever I need to go before the idle drops down. But as I live on the Gold Coast, there are a lot of traffic lights in between my home and work, and I have noticed I am getting a lot of weird looks when sitting at the lights with my car idling close to 2 grand as it is rather loud. The last thing I want is to be sitting at the lights and have a police car rock up next to me while my car sounds like I am staging at a drag strip. I just want to have cold idle at around 1200 rpm and keep my warm idle at 800 rpm. Is there any way to change the cold idle limit with out changing my entire idle limit? RB20DET, not sure if silver or red top as I do not know how to tell. It has the ECCS manifold but both came it with that. Is there any other way to tell ? Kind Regards, Michael

do it at 650

i have an rb20det in a vl calais. running stock ecu, just a bigger turbo. upong inspection i noticed that only one of my knock sensors was connected, the one at the front of the engine. Can anyone tell me how to wire in the other one Should I go straight to the ecu, if so which pin or can i link to the other knock sensor SAFELY??? Kind Regards, Michael

well hopefully that list helps someone out along the lines

After reading through all of these posts (rather entertaining i might add) a couple of things come to mind. CRANKING FOR A SECOND LONGER First of all, the reason why holding the key down for that split second longer is working for most of you is because your crank maps in the ecu are different to idle and load maps. how it works is while the ecu is getting the signal that the starter motor is still cranking, it is throwing in that little bit extra fuel until you come off the key. so holding the key for a split second longer is exactly the same as tickling the throttle. THROTTLE BODY something to have a look at for i would say most if not all of you is your throttle bodies. someone already mentioned that theirs was held ajar the slightest bit, whether it be by the TPS position, worn out or old spring or throttle body, a busted TB gasket (very common and often overlooked) or a layer of gunk on the inside of the TB. The layer of gunk only has to be minimal. Sometimes you cant tell by looking at it, but it is definitely enough to affect it. best way to remedy the gunk is to start the car up and load her up on carby cleaner holding the accel cable open slightly. Better yet, pull the TB off. You dont have to have a gasket to replace the old one with (the old one will break) just have a tube of gasket goo. It works perfectly on the throttle body, you wont tell a difference between goop and gasket. But pull off the TB, clean everything with a tootbrush and petrol, or Carby cleaner or Metho then put it all back on. Dont lose the spring for the accel cable though, you wont have fun if you do. I would highly recommend doing this even if you are not having troubles with start up, its just a great little bit of maintenance. CRANK ANGLE SENSOR Check that your CAS is nice and tight and has not wiggled its way around one way or another. even if it only moves a millimetre it will be enough to give you troubles. But not necessarily enough to see any change whilst driving or when warm, but it will make start up a little harder. THROTTLE POSITIONING SENSOR Check that your TPS is adjusted correctly with 0.45v CLOSED and +4.5v at WOT. TPS can play havoc on an angine, especially with something as niddily as an idle. COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSORS Make sure that your ECU coolant temp sensor is working and connected. Not the single wire sensor that controls the dash temp gauge, the twin wire sensor that sits next to it. If it is faulty, your ecu will run on two maps, one for 20c and one for 80c. meaning at start up it wont be getting enough fuel to combust properly at certain temperature ranges. KNOCK SENSORS Check that BOTH of your knock sensors are connected and working. A knock sensor controls (in a way) your engines timing. If the engine receives a signal from the knock that it is pinging, it will advance the timing until the pinging goes away. This can have major effects on your cars ability to run. But they are also sensitive equipment. They run a single 16g shielded wire to each sensor (both are a green plug underneath the plenum on the drivers side) You can see the forward most one by looking through your plenum runners just near the top radiator hose, the rear most one you can see by looking down into the engine from over the strut tower but is a little harder to see, best off going from under neath and they will be on each side of the engine mount and oil filter. Both of the knock sensors need to wired up and functioning correctly. Also check the wires going to them all the way back to the ecu. Make sure there are no breaks or pinches in the wire. As I said they are sensitive equipment. If the wire, or even the plastic tubing, or the shielding around the wire is broken, the sensor will pick up "noise" (similiar to the whirring you hear through your radio when accelerating) and throw a code to the ecu to change your timing. This problem can very well be only present during start up if the wires are in bad shape as they are both on the same side, and close to the starter motor. So if they pick up noise during cranking, the ecu will advance the timing on you for a couple of seconds until the sensors realize there is no pinging and stop throwing the code. ECU "THROWING CODES" The next step would be to check your ECU for codes. Either do this by plugging your laptop in with a consult plug (if any of you are located on the Gold Coast I am happy to help with this as I have the equipment) and reading the ECU codes through a program like ECU Talk, Data Scan or OBD Scan Tech. You can also do this without a laptop by turning the screw on your ECU to diagnostic mode and counting the flashes either on the LED on the ECU itself, or the check engine light on the dash. If you are using the E CU LED and it only has one LED, 1 long flash = 10, 1 short flash = 1. so 34 ( knock sensor code ) would be 3 long 4 short flashes. Find out if your ECU is throwing a code and check it against the FSM or with this list http://motorswaps.myfreeforum.org/archive/rb20det-ecu-diagnostic-procedure__o_t__t_57.html ECU RESET The last piece of knowledge I can impart to you on this matter would be to reset the ECU. It can do absolute wonders for these little problems. do this by disconnecting your battery for a couple of minutes and holding your foot on the brake, flashing the headlights or beeping the horn to remove any residual charge the ECU or any capacitors may be holding. Keep the battery disconnected for lets say 5 minutes then reconnect it back up. start the car up and go for a drive. For the first 5 minutes, the ECU will be making big changes to everything, A/F ratios, timing, injectors, everything. After 5 minutes (thereabout) it starts making very small incremental changes until everything is running at the very peak of its performance. Resetting the ECU like this will make sure that the ECU is now taking into consideration any new changes or upgrades you have made to the engine in whole as well as it will be compensating for things that may not be working at 100% of its abilities. I did this with a healthy running engine and saw quite a note able difference, so doing it on a car that is not running 100% "SHOULD" make monumental changes to its drive ability and performance. In saying this, resetting the ECU to allow it to recalibrate will not be as efficient as a dyno tune, so do not get mistaken with this. It will not automatically dial in new "stage" cams, or bigger turbo or injectors. CONSTRAINTS OF ECU RESET I should also note, that it is really worth holding off doing this until you have checked everything else over with a fine tooth comb, do this as a last resort for the "Pièce DE résistance". This way it will have the highest opportunity to make the best adaptations to whatever is needed for the car to run perfectly. But you should also do this with a full tank of gas, and some performance booster, such as n octane enhancer, or a mixture of 98 octane and a little bit of E-85. This way the car will tune itself to the highest possible performance standards it is capable of. I hope that something is this wrist breaking post I have written in my current drunken state both makes sense, and is also relative to the situations you fellas are experiencing. Wouldn't want this to be a waste of time LOL. Let me now if any of these pointers helps out in any way. Kind Regards, Michael

i found out why its throwing that code, only one knock sensor is connected. the one closest to the fire wall does not have any wires going to it. as far as i can see, no wiring anywhere for it. so i will have to find out where to bring a wire from, or find out if i can just tap over from the other knock sensor

Hey fellas, Just thought i would check on here in case someone has had this with their cars, RB20DET, in these cold mornings. starts up fine, idles at around 1000. drive for couple of minutes, the idle is up around 1500 cause she is still cold. been driving for 5 minutes now and the idle will go from the steady 1500 and drop to maybe 800, then back to 1500 and then drop again. the revs pick back up straight away, and sit back on 1500, just wondering what might be causing it? My ECU is throwing 34 (knock sensor) could this be a possible cause? any other ideas, please let me know Kind Regards, Michael

you guys are champions. I did not even THINK of checking the FSM for this info. Completely passed me Thank you both again, great help

If you have simply thrown a turbo exhaust manifold and turbo onto a STOCK N/A motor, I would strongly suggest removing the boost controller all together. The ecu will not have a single idea what is happening when you see boost. (if it i an N/A ecu, if not that's good) Also, if it is just an N/A motor that you, or someone has strapped a turbo onto, the compression of the cylinders will be way too high to safely see ANY boost. Since day 1, people have said you can "safely" put a turbo on an N/A engine and run <5 PSI of boost and it will be okay. In "some" cases this may be truth, however it is putting an extremely high amount of stress on the non turbo engine and in 9/10 cases will end with a bang, and not from your tires. So as far as you wanting to get more boost. I would strongly suggest removing what boost you already have. If you are dead set on continuing with the turbo on the N/A engine, then I highly suggest you get a decompression head gasket, shorter stroke pistons, dish top pistons or all of the above to lower the compression enough to SAFELY have some boost put through it. If you don't lower the compression, you will have two engines sitting in your garage needing a rebuild. As well as no car. Michael

G'morning all, I am looking to get a fella out to repair the thread on the rear most manifold stud hole on the RB20DET (if anyone can recommend someone good whom services the Gold Coast that would be awesome) Upon seeing that the average prices I could find on exh mani stud kits were $115 and UP, I took it upon myself to find an alternative. Went down to the local nut "n" bolt (Coastal Bolts and Fasteners Labrador) and matched up the right studs. They are M10x1.25 for anyone interested and 14 of them (two for spares) cost me $25 or $30. throw in some washers and .10c a piece and some nuts for the same, it starts becoming a WHOLE lot cheaper than buying a kit. Without the spacers that I am asking about, the whole lot has cost me around $40. With the spacers it would cost me $50 MAX. Which is a whole lot better than the $115 or so to get the kit. $175 if you are getting them from Nissan themselves. However, a dilemma I am having, is I have recently noticed that in the stud kits, are not only washers but actual spacers, and to top it off they are not all the same, cylinders 1,2,3 and 5 have one type, whilst 4 and 6 have another. I can not seem to find anywhere what sizes these spacers are. Would there be any chance that someone on here might know what sizes they are? For the two different spacers needed. I believe they are spacers, they look like they are. As you can see in the image above, there are 12 washers, 8 thick spacers and 4 spacers a little bit thinner. All I need to know is what thickness they are. If anyone has some old exh studs left laying around with the spacers on them (PLEASE, not just a stud with a random spacer you chucked on there, but the actual required spacer) could you please measure the thickness of them. I need the measurements for both the thin and thick spacers (not the washers, just the spacers) Kind Regards, Michael

Hey fellas, Just thought i would check on here in case someone has had this with their cars, RB20DET, in these cold mornings. starts up fine, idles at around 1000. drive for couple of minutes, the idle is up around 1500 cause she is still cold. been driving for 5 minutes now and the idle will go from the steady 1500 and drop to maybe 800, then back to 1500 and then drop again. the revs pick back up straight away, and sit back on 1500, just wondering what might be causing it? My ECU is throwing 34 (knock sensor) could this be a possible cause? any other ideas, please let me know Kind Regards, Michael

fantastic, thats what i ordered. awesome, thanks for that buddy. I dont know why my fast program was not showing it when I searched. Very rarely does it come up with a result when i use it. dont know whats wrong

can someone please put these numbers through their FAST program, mine isnt coming up with any results it is a bosch alternator, numbered 23100 - V9401, 14 volt, 24/60 amp. just need to know what it is off. I believe the wrecker sold me the wrong one Kind Regards, Michael

what info you got on it mungy? age, condition, what its off, amperage?

im after an alternator, you got one in good nick there?

After an alternator for any series RB engine. HAS to be in good working order. I am located on the Gold Coast and would prefer something I could pick up unless you have a really good price on a posted item Kind Regards, Michael

my galaxy s3 has an app called navigon by garmin. and i really ant fault it. it is better than all actual gps' i have used in the past. and as an ex truckie, i have used quite a lot

2jz is bomb proof. literally

Is there any way to tell an rb20det from a redtop and silvertop. I know the inlet manifold s are different, but bot models had this manifold, so how else can I tell which engine this is? All I need to do is find out which gasket kit to get for my inlet manifold, but it is looking to be a mission to find out

Curious as to peoples first hand experience with the different brands, cometic, permaseal, OEM, durapro, tog, etc etc. As with most of the people in the world, one of my pet hates with my cars is something simple like the exhaust maifold gasket getting flogged out and have that infernal ticking noise and disgusting engine noise. Due to most people with skylines running big boost or big turbos, or pulling off the exhaust system to do maintenance, the gaskets usually get flogged out rather quickly compared to other "standard " cars. So I am curious to find out which products people tend to use and for what reasons. whether they be ease of access, price, performance, etc etc. Also curious as to other gaskets such as intake manifold, rocker covers and all others. So simply post a reply with which ones you use, how much they cost and why you use them and we will all be able to compare. Kind Regards, Michael

open up the ECU and have a look if you can see a brand anywhere

Thanks for the reply Another question, is it worth a dyno run for fault finding with the standard ecu? The prob I am having is when I hit boost at WOT, I see about 5 pounds until the engine just bogs down and doesnt use the boost. If I accel at say half throttle I can get it all the way but at WOT it just doesnt use the boost. I am curious as to whether I should stick it on a dyno to find the problem, or if I should fault find the hard way Kind Regards, Michael

or you can be me and never settle for stock