poeticjustice88

Hey all, I have read on a couple of different forums that the standard rb20det ECU has some tuning capabilities. None of them went into detail to say what type of capabilities though. I was wondering if it is worth getting a dyno tune on a standard rb20det ECU and what type of things can be changed. Like, does it have the ability to run bigger injectors, different timing, higher boost applications, these kind of things. I ask because my car is not running right, but it is not throwing any codes with the led on ecu. i believe it is an over or under fueling issue, but i do not want to put it on a dyno if the ecu cant be retuned Kind Regards, Michael

all the people that have done conversions or modded their harness' and no one knows ? /bump

My AAC valce on the back of my plenum does not have any wires going to it. I went down and bought a plug for it today but I need to know which wires go to it from the rb20det ecu. I know that 1 of the wires is from no.4 pin on the ecu which is labeled AAC valve, however it does not tell me what the second wire to the plug should be, nor does it tell me which wire goes to which pin on the plug. I am pretty sure in thinking that the no.4 pin from ecu goes to the no/1 pin on the AAC valve but I am not sure. Could anyone please tell me what the second wire to the AAC plug is and where to get it from

I am also afraid of toasters

if i was to solder to the wires, would I have to cut the existing wires to stop excess noise or interference. what I mean is. for example, if I need to join to the wires coming from pin #1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, do i join my diagnosis plug to the wires coming from the ecu and then cut the rest of the original wire off? Or do I splice into those wires and leave the originals connected to whatever they are? Kind Regards, Michael

bump

my current one on the rb20det is 02u10 which is for an rb25. would this cause it to run differently ? or is it also interchangeable onto an rb20det?

can anyone with an rb20det please have a look at their camshaft position sensor and tell me what numbers are on it? I need the part number as I believe the sensor on my rb20det is the wrong one so I would like to cross reference it. I cant seem to find the part number on the net Kind Regards, Michael

so many people have done this, please someone, let me know

hey all. I went down to nizzpro today and got myself a diagnosis port from an old sr20 180 to put into my rb20. The question I have is, am I able to connect the diagnoses plug cables to the wires coming from the correct pins on the ecu, or do I have to solder it directly onto the ecu pins? It just seems it would be a much easier job if I can connect to the pre existing wires by simply splicing into them, rather than having to try and solder onto the tiny pins in the ecu. Plus it means that there is no chance of me connecting to the wrong pin as they are all close together, dropping solder into the ecu, or accidentally soldering two pins together by a random string of wire or piece of thick solder. that would be very hazardous to the ecu. any input would be greatly appreciated Kind Regards, Poeticjustice88

well i am not too sure. I believe the loom is factory. it definately seems factory. would anyone be able to shed some light on how to test the tps. i tried the other day, and it was 0.00v or 12.0v. nothing in between, but that was me trying the plug coming off the side, not the bottom plug. Which plug, and which pins should i test?

calais is manual. both the plugs to the side of the TPS and the plugs on the bottom of it are connected Which do I need?

OK, I am new here, I have an rb20det calais. It's not running right, not sure whats wrong with it, but it just needs alot of maintenance. The problem I had tonight was it would not start. cranked with plenty of power but would not start up. took about 5 minutes of trying and she came to life, drove for about a minute, got through a set of lights and just stopped. What it felt like was all my spark was gone. sat there for another 10 minutes trying to crank it over. it would start up and hover at about 300 rpm and then die. tapping the accelerator would bring it up 100 rpm or so then it would die. it felt as if it was only running on 4 or 5 cylnders. the coils are all good, as are the plugs. just wondering if anyone has had a similiar problem, or may know of something it could be. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/425859-tps-sensor/#entry6865441 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/425812-help-with-rb20det-on-the-gold-coast/#entry6864567 These are the other two posts I have started asking for help, I am not expecting you all to read through them both, but I thought I should put them on here so that everyone gets the whole picture. I unplugged one of the TPS connectors, the connector coming off of the side of the TPS, not the bottom one and it came to life after a couple more attempts. I do not know if it was because I unplugged the TPS or just coincidence. Any help anybody has would be greatly appreciated. This is my daily driver and having it stalling on me is something that I can not handle. Thank you all in advance. Kind Regards, Poeticjustice88

anyone ?

Hey all. I was testing my tps today. I have read on the forums that it should be 0.5v closed and 4.5v WOT, can anyone tell me if this is correct? If so, my TPS was 0.00v closed and jumped straight to 12v at the slightest change on the tps. there was no climbing, it was one or the other. Does this mean that my TPS is buggered, or should I test it without the two plugs connected? If so, which plug do I keep connected? It is on an rb20det. I think this may be cause to running like a dog over 3500 rpm. so can anyone shed some light on what the TPS should do, and which plugs should be connected when testing? Thank you in advance, Poeticjustice88

could also e thatthe starter motor is flicking onto the flywheel as it should, but it is not grabbing onto the teeth on the ring gear. which is a large ring that sits around the outside of the flywheel, if those teeth on the ring gear are worn, the starter motor will grind against them making that sound

sound slike your temp sensor has grounded out. if the rubber grommet has busted, the temp sensor and wire connection will be acting as if you have just grounded them.

I have recently changed the afm that was on the car to another one. both standard afm's. it seemed to have somewhat eased the running of the engine, however still, as soon as i see boost, or put my foot down, it does not run right. There is still something wrong. I am only running 5 psi of boost, so i know it is not overboosting. However, that brings up another thing i want to ask. Where are most people getting a reference signalfor a boost gauge from? Currently I am running one from the intake manifold. There are two on there, I am running the boost gauge off of the highest one. the one underneath has 5 cm's of pipe and is blocked off with a screw. The nipple my gauge is connected to, has a t-piece on it, one line going straight to the boost gauge, and the other side of the boost tee is blocked off with a screw aswell. Can somebody please shed some light on where these two nipples are meant to be connected to, or what they are meant to have connected to them. Aswell as informing me of where you are getting your reference signal on your RB20DET. Thank you in advance. Kind Regards, Poeticjustice88

Hello all. Need a little help with my rb20 powered calais. the previous owner could not get it running right after countless attempts. I have had the car for only a couple of days and have had no success either. I have checked all the spark plugs, coils, loom and not yet found anything that could help the problem. The problem is. Difficult to get the car to idle when warm. Idles fine when cold, sometimes it hovers around maybe 200 rpm won initial start but it comes to life and sits at a higher decent idle after about 10 seconds. If I pump the gas once or twice it gets to idle straight away, just needs a little help to pick it up. as the tacho is busted, i can only give approximate revs. At around 3500 rpm if i try and put my foot down, it will spit and fart and cough all they way through the gear. I can not see or hear any air leaks. The only mods I can see are big FMIC , decent exhaust manifold, and a T04e turbo(lol). It just does not want to rev freely. What I am asking. Is if anybody in the Gold Coast area, would be willing to help me out with these problems. I have never owned an RB, yet have had many powerful cars, so I am not an idiot, just new to the RB. If someone could come around and point out specific problem areas on the RB, and give me a hand to try and find this problem, I would be greatly appreciative. I would take it to a shop, But I am physically disabled and in no way can afford a shop to look it over. I am happy to supply the beers to whomever comes around to help me out. Im not a rapist, murderer, theif or low life. I have no intention of dicking anyone around. I simply want some help on my car so that I can have a car again. Kind Regards, Clucky-7