Kanaric

got it, was just stuck together

Last car I had you loosened the bolts on the lid and you could like pull it back and forth on either side to adjust it left or right. It doesn't look like that works on this?

RB26 Tommykaira build, aftermarket cams and pistons that i have no details on. N1 block N1 turbos id 1050cc injectors walbro 350lph TK fmic TK 3in exhaust with cat (in US I can remove cats, have not) link g4+ shitty west coast US 91aki fuel 420awhp

I picked it up from a shop who did bodywork and fully redid the paint, and this is like a state away because I live in the middle of nowhere. They claimed the car ran fine when I picked it up. I drove it and it did but I had to drive 6 hours to get home and it had these problems starting during that trip. So something went wrong during that. Whoever did this changes from stock blocked off the stock 'nipples' they were no longer using. The inlet on the boost control solenoid is one of what was missing. that water tube air line that comes from the plenum, stock, is one that was hanging loose with a cracked end and is exactly long enough so I wasn't sure if they were instead using that for the boost controller. Where is this 'water tube' inlet for that? I wanted to see if that was blocked off or rerouted to confirm but I can't find that. It fits the 'pre throttle boost source' if so. The one from the back of the engine was Td up for something, i do not have an extra boost gauge or anything, so i'll trace that out and see if maybe they were using that. Thanks for the info. I've been considering doing it like this but I want to make sure I catch if anything is messed up. edit: they put a T on the fuel pressure regulator line for a map sensor.

I got a R33 GTR and it has a Link G4 and N1 turbos with a MAC boost solenoid. After picking it up I noticed it was overboosting and brought it home and saw that vacuum lines had come off with split ends so i'm trying to figure out wtf they were doing here. The solenoid had only 1 line going in and i'm trying to figure out where the other one is. They have the stock route for the one that comes out of the top of the wastegate and that seems connected correctly. The line that comes out of the intake pipe next to that is blocked off with a rubber stopped, same on the other side, so they are using some alternative setup. I found two vacuum lines that were not connected obviously i'm assuming more can be f**ked up. One of them comes from the back of the intake plenum. There are two large hoses and then a small 3rd one in the rear. It looks like it could go into the boost solenoid but any diagram I see it's supposed to go into some "water tube" that I can't seem to find. Here's some images to help out. In this image the green is as stock and the blue is missing. In this image the 'water tube' line is the vacuum line I think they may have been using for the boost solenoid The other thing that wasn't attached goes to some T connector because they were zip tied together that made it obvious. This isn't on that diagram but it looks like it comes out of the 'bottom collector boost source' that is on the upper right of that top image. I'm just trying to figure this shit out and whatever info or tips someone can provide would be useful but i'm wondering, does that 'water tube' vacuum line make sense as an alternative thing to use for a boost solenoid? And what is the 'bottom of the collector - boost source' thing on the upper right of the image used for and any guesses on why some T connector would be put on it? Anything i've touched before this was simple af dumbass straight forward shit and I don't really know these GTRs that well so any help is appreciated. My last car was a simple stock mount turbo upgrade gtst setup lol. edit: I tried that plenum line for the solenoid and it overboosts. It's like as if the wastegate is getting no indication of boost pressure. Just will go until fuel cut if I let it so something is not connected right.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xbuDrWxoCrgesnzr8 The latch came undone and I see no obvious way that it would attach. I'm assuming i'm missing a part and am wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction?

First off I live in the US just to get that out of the way. Have a R32 with RB20DET and I don't know much about AC but I saw on ebay they have R12 like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/R12-COMPATIBLE-A-C-REFRIGERANT-MAXI-FRIG-12a-1994-OLDER-RECHARGE-REFILL-KIT/122508929925?hash=item1c8619eb85:g:2H4AAOxyqUpQ8fty https://www.ebay.com/itm/Enviro-Safe-Industrial-Modern-Refrigerant-R12-R134a-Replacement-Kit/152828788071?epid=20006820513&hash=item23954e3d67 I was wondering how much of that do you need for a Skyline's AC system or if anyone has any comments on ebay R12. I basically have to replace my compressor which I already have purchased, just trying to figure out the refrigerant side of things.

Not necessarily. In my case part of the reason I want to stay RB20 is because in my autocross class I can run much lower weight with a 2 liter. Also there is another event I participate in that has a separate class for 2l turbos and above 2l. That is the cutoff. Above 2l is against modern V8 cars There is another class at that same event I could be in for 89 and earlier cars but I would have to increase weight to 3200lbs. RB25 would be inconvenient. It'sliterally the difference between me facing a C6 z06 Corvette or a S13

Wondering if there are any updates on this, would like to see a dyno plot lol. Basically in my situation i'm looking for the same thing this guy is. I have a Hypergear SS1.5 and while it makes the power I want I find I really do need power 1000+ rpms earlier. I live in the US and do track and autocross and I find i'm doing autocross way more and I just am out of the power band constantly while when the car was stock I was fine. I have a FD RX7 that I was going to keep stock but the power on that car if I were to just mod it with stock turbos would be perfect to me. I just want to NOT do that since a completely unmodded mint low mile RX7 is a rarity over here. It took a lot of work to get the car running right up to this point and I don't want to replace the engine. If I have to do that i'd just sell the car and use the money from that and put it into the RX7. Which I don't want to do lol. Hoping to see some results so I can make a decision.

Got a different tuner who fixed my problems I think. We only have 91aki gas where I am so keep that in mind. Tuner suggested I switch to 14 psi spring, was having issues holding boost above 16psi at higher rpm

Initial safe tune on a RB20DET with the Hypergear ATR43SS 1.5 turbo ball bearing chra. This is at 14 psi going to go for more boost soon. Cam gears 3 inch turbo back catless exhaust blitz frontmount custom intake tomei cam gears 660cc injectors nismo fuel pump link G4 ecu clutch upgrade This seems really late power to me especially at only 14 psi. Should I be getting more power sooner or is this fine? If this is what I have to live with I wish I got a turbo that made power earlier lol. I bought some shit aftermarket fan clutch that has my fan going 24/7 so that may be robbing power.,

Really the only reason I want a bolton turbo is that I want to keep the stock manifold, turbo position, and my exhaust. If there is a stock position downpipe that goes to the exhaust I have I would be open to it and it would open my options. Though all I have seen were top mount downpipes. Thanks for the replies.

I was looking at the Sonic Performance turbo but idk if they will ship to the US, sent them an email though. I am more or less looking for a bolton solution which EFR6758 I don't think has a turbine housing that is skyline fitment. In the US it might be hard to obtain a skyline turbine housing so I might have to accept I won't be getting one, however I'm curious how the Hypergear SS1 compares at this point. Basically my final choice if I want a stock fitment turbo that is billet and ball bearing. I take it a RB25 housing won't work for this?

Anyone using GTX2860R on a RB20? If I want ~300-320whp should I get that or go larger? Looking to preserve some bottom end of the torque curve.

Would 17x8 +28 with 255/40/17 tires fit on the front of a R32 GTS-T without rubbing the fender or impacting the suspension? This question comes from an argument I had with a guy who claims it would be fine. However I want to be proven wrong.

So I have some issues where i'm getting dips in power, like if the car is misfiring, and uneven acceleration that goes away once the car is warmed up. It is especially apparent at low RPM. The other day even I got in the car and turned on AC and it wouldn't get to idle RPM and stalled, did this twice, and then it ran properly. I thought the first part might be coils, i bought replacements and didn't put them in yet, until that idle mishap happened. Any ideas?

Why not gtx2863? I hear is is more responsive than the gt2860 and you get more power

I was in LA a while back and hit a guy at a freeway on/off ram area. Below is the results. Nobody in Las Vegas will touch this with a 10 foot pole so I guess I have my first project on my hands. Things needed: Fenders Everything from the radiator forward. Everything behind the radiator other than the fan clutch is intact. Car will start and seems to run fine. I would think this would be a time to change to the gtr style front end however I need fenders so I can buy a front cut that includes everything here for $1000 or less depending on who i get it through. Going to get started this weekend. I'll be going heavily off of internet guides and other peoples threads so is there any in particular I should look at that would show me how to remove the radiator support and everything there? This will be the first time i've done anything like this, before i've only done like bolt on upgrades.

It is the subframe narrowed it down to that which is good because i bought replacement bushings for that.

Can you guys help me make a purchase decision? Have a R32 GTS-T and am doing SCCA Autocross with it, would like to do track days, about half my use of it and weekend driving. Bought new subframe and differential bushings and am wondering between two different things. One of the issues i was having is some clunking in the rear which I attribute either to subframe or diff bushings. I want to get suspension, specifically swift springed BC BRs. Will be using near as possible to stock ride height because otherwise I would not be able to get in and out of my garage lol and if I lower it i would probably need more adjustment for my alignment than I can do stock. The thing is though is other people were suggesting to me in buying basically what comes in this: http://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-r32-suspension-kit.html plus lower control arms or replace all suspension bushings. The bushings themselves are expensive and I would have to press them in possibly f**king shit up so I figured just buy new suspension components. The thing is I get no clunking, uneven tire wear, or anything like that from any part of my suspension aside the area of the rear subframe. So is this really necessary at this stage? Or would I be better served getting coilovers and possibly sway bars? Stock struts are not blown. I know if I go one route or the other I will eventually want both. If you have any suggestions besides what i'm thinking please let me know.

The alternator seems like a new item but I bet it was overrevved or something by this non-stock pulley when I was at autocross.... I'll have to see how to wire this. I am not very electrically inclined.

It doesn't seem like he's on much anymore, never got a pm reply.

Found the source of the sound, it's the alternator. Just have to figure out if it's the belt, pulley, or whatever. I think the pulley is causing problems because since i've had the car it has a pulley that is wider than it should be i'm guessing previous owner put one from another car on it for whatever reason. Only problem is I can't find one that isn't part of some expensive underdrive pulley kit. Anyone know where I can get one?

Ok, i'll check that out

Maybe it is, here is a video of the sound. The thing is though with a boost leak i should hear it get louder at higher rpms, am I right? I don't hear anything at higher rpm than idle. Even if I just use light throttle.