Kanaric

Forgot to mention its r32 gtst with the proper powerfc for it

Have my car at a tuner right now and they say with the power fc none of the gauges are working. Anyone have any ideas?

It such high PSI unusual? I know it's above what is recommended so i'm looking at wastegate actuators right now. I have tomei turbo elbow, 3" back non-cat exhaust + intercooler. If this isn't unusual since people put the RB20 actuator on the RB25 is the other way around possible? Thanks edit: hmm now it gets to like 11-12.5 psi and it's like the engine is cutting. Seems I might have another issue. It isn't tuned yet could be the problem there.

You see up there on top of this forum there is a RB25 dyno thread right? GOOD info on turbos is probably the most plentiful information on this forum. I know because I routinely use the search button.

Since someone necroed this i'm wondering what are good options now for a R32 GTS-T?

I live in the US and have no problems buying the parts. What you pay in taxes or VAT from europeon distributers we don't have to pay. Bought a Blitz intercooler myself for $500 from Japan with a bunch of other parts. Shipping was $200 but saved a ton of money than buying domestic. Japspeed in the UK is a great source for parts for Americans. The shipping is cheap. They have a decent intercooler for sale as well as downpipe. OP should check them out.

threads that start out with "I refuse to search" usually end up this way. At least we know who the "idot" is.

Careful what you buy. I bought a electric setup for my car, caused massive power drain. Are you having real overheating issues? If not stay stock. Don't upgrade to things pointlessly.

Well I did take the door card off just didn't know what to look for. The rails are secured onto the window so that doesn't seem to be the issue here. Found it. Looks like there is this wire that pulls the door up and down or something, it is broken in two. What's the part I need to replace if that's what it is? Guessing window regulator.

Was driving and put my window up yesterday and it fell into the door, I can hear grinding and the door trying to function. Don't know anything about car windows, what is likely broken and are there any diagrams or write ups on this? Searched and only thing I can find is electrical issues, i'm assuming this is mechanical and some kind of a gear broke.

I understand that if the speedometer is not working your car can go into limp mode. However, my speedo is just bouncy until higher speeds and my car limp modes occasionally. If the speedo is functioning like that can this still cause that problem or no?

I would think this, but don't people have aftermarket audio setups that draw way more power than just two fans? That's all I put on this car was these two fans. I would think that factory options in the R33 could of drawn more power. Keep in mind I have a R33 90 amp alternator now. That is what was on the GTR. They had a computer for the AWD system, probably significantly better audio setup, cruise control, fog lights, ABS, etc. I don't see how these fans would draw more power than all of that combined.

Disappointing discovery today. Thoroughly stress tested the car today with AC off, same issues as before. Car died right by my house going 30 mph as I was braking for a stop sign. Got home and the cooling fan was running, turned on lights/brights 12.1 volts. Going to contact the people at: http://www.paladinlasvegas.com/ And ask they either fix it or put the OEM setup back on.

Awesome, thanks. I'll give that a try.

So I replaced with a new RB25 alternator. Car seemed to be better then before i turned on the AC and that was even worse. The car went down to like 400 rpm idle obviously then sounding like it was continuously on the verge of dying. Hit the throttle and it felt a bit sluggish but would work. What could possibly cause turning on the AC to kill the idle like this?

Awesome, thanks for confirming.

After doing that car is acting really weird now. At idle any revving would immediately make hicas flicker only to go away above 1000rpm. So basically it would flicker as soon as I touched the throttle. This time turning on the lights the drivers side headlight came on, thought this whole time it was dead. Then the hicas light turned solid after revving it for like the 6th time until above 1000 rpm instead of flickering that the drivers side light went off. Each time I turn the headlights with the AC on they come on different. Either dim, passenger side working only or all working. Got both fans to be on and was getting 12.6, lights on with that put the car well below normal idle and at 12.2 while the car was still on which is what the battery read when the car was off.

Turned on AC voltage dipped to 12.3-12.5, then back up to 13.5 and was fine. Then I turned on the lights+high beams. Hicas lights continually on, 12.3-12.5 again. When the AC was on and I turned on the lights they wouldn't be at full brightness. I turned the AC off turned lights off/on then they would go to full brightness when they were like that with the AC on the problem was like above. Turned on rear defroster with all this car sounded like it was on the verge of dying. After doing that the battery tested, with car off, at 12.2 volts and car wouldn't start again until the 4th try.

Was having issues finding a fan clutch and other cooling parts easily in the US and building a electric fan system was cheaper for me so I had someone build a setup for me. Now i'm having power issues. It's a dual fan setup, if I turn on the AC one of the two fans turn on the other turns out at temperature. If the temperature activated fan turns on it will drive fine for a while, probably because it cools then shuts off, however if the AC fan is on after about a minute the car will start dying, electrics will start failing, etc. As if I lost power. Do I need to get a more powerful battery or alternator or anything? This is for a GTS-T. Once the car starts dying like this I can turn it on just fine, unless the fan comes on as the car turns on then I only have a few seconds of drivability. This car has kind of a smaller battery with small terminals i've not seen in any car in the united states. The guy who I had build this fan system tried telling me my alternator was going bad. I know how to test that, i've even had taken it to a autozone and had them check it. It's fine. I'll probably have to get back to him on this but if he's telling me that I think I will trust what you guys will have to tell me more. Thanks for any info you can provide. I don't know anything when it comes to power in a car so any help provided I would be grateful for.

lmao, ok.

This was out of box, didn't even put anything on it. Is there anything I can use to reduce the amount of oil on there?

Never had a problem like this before in any car. Basically the car was going into limp mode and intermittent loss of power above 3000 RPM. TL;DR the MAF was getting the filer's oil on it causing it to lose functionality, had to clean the MAF often with MAF cleaner and the car ran fine for a few days. I live in vegas where it gets 40+ degrees regularly so maybe that causes the oil to become more fluid and causes this problem. It's just weird. I've NEVER had this problem before with a K&N filter. Had a WRX and 350Z both with oiled filters like this and neither of them had an issue. I guess this is a "cool story bro" post but it's just something ridiculous to me so I felt the need the post it.

Everything runs fine when AC is off but if the AC is on as the car is being started it won't start, like it is low on power. Also when i'm driving around when AC is on HICAS light will come on occasionally the the car drive strange with the steering being heavier. Battery has enough charge. Could it be the alternator? Is something else possible? As far as other detail this is a R32 GTS-T. The stock fan was replaced with electric fans one of the two electric fans turn on when the AC is on. I have my doubts that the battery or the alternator is the issue. Used a voltmeter and battery reads 12.5 when car is off, when car is on it's 13.89

They are extremely popular here in the US and never heard of any problems from them. I used to own a Subaru before and they probably were the most popular injectors by far.

Around where I live used, and good quality, Garrett turbos are extremely common. 2860r/rs 2871r 2876r etc I can all find for like $400-$700 used by people for only like 1500miles or so as they upgraded to GT30 types. My question is that I want to use stock manifold and exhaust fitment, what oem-style exhaust housing can fit these? If I can acquire a R33 or OP6 style housing would that work? I have a R32 GTS-T so i'm sure mine will not. Trying to keeps costs down and avoid having a housing machined. I tried searching and you don't get reliable results on the topic i'm trying to find when searcing on these terms. Just housing sizing and things like that.