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It's basically a splice point, if anyone was curious. I opened it up and the wire from the radio that I followed to it basically connects to three other wires.

By the way, these are located near the steering rack under the dash. I just want to make sure the radio isn't connected to something else inside these things that may cause it to not start or something stupid.

So, I've looked through a few threads and haven't found anyone mentioning these pink/green things I ran into while pulling out my radio wiring. The reason I'm pulling the wiring is because morons before me decided they knew how to wire something when they didn't, and it's just butchered. I also never use the radio, so I figured I'll pull out the old crap wiring and if I ever wanted a radio again, I'll just reinstall fresh wiring. I'm just wondering what the green/pink plug looking things are for. As far as I know, there isn't a security system on this car. It looks like stock wiring at this point, so I'm wondering if I can rip out the radio wiring from it and be fine or if I need to keep it. Thanks for the help!

14.25mm is what I pulled out.

I didn't know it was just a matter of measuring the diameter and that the knurl count didn't matter, as DJR81 pointed out. I would have figured the count would have mattered. I was merely overthinking it. So yes, Ben C34, I did make this thread. Considering there isn't another f**king thread about this, I made one. It's a reasonable question considering they had them listed separate and any time I've ever seen "knurls" or splines or certain patterns like that in other applications, usually the number of them matters. It doesn't matter now as it's been sorted. Thank you for the help.

I don't know if they are different, I wouldn't see Nissan making them different as it would make two separate parts for no good reason. I saw them listed differently, which is why I asked the seller and since they won't reply, asked here. I tried to get on the Nismo site but it wasn't working for some reason, and anything on Google leads me to nothing useful. I know the front is different from the rear for sure, I just wasn't sure about from GTS to GTR.

So, I have a GTS-4 that I need all new front wheel studs for. I am curious if they are GTR or GTS-T studs. I found them online with Conceptua and they have GTS-T and GTR studs for sale separately, so I assume they are different spline counts. I'm also assuming they are GTS-T studs, but this car is so confusing when it comes to correct parts. Yes, I've already emailed Conceptua twice and for some reason they haven't replied. I am hoping someone here maybe has either experience with GTS-4 stud interchangeability or have either GTR/GTS-T studs removed so they can count the splines. The ones I removed have 36 splines. Thank you for any help!

GTSboy and s2d4, Thank you. I've only wanted a bit more detail about how to make this swap more realistic. I appreciate your input on the matter! Trust me, I understand internet sarcasm better than most (I troll random forums f**king with people constantly). But when it comes to the Skyline, I try to get tangible information! I didn't think it was an extensive swap, but I just wanted to make sure I had everything before swapping to make sure. I also wanted to (hopefully) make a thread describing the work required to make this happen. I can make wiring problems disappear (it's kinda my job in aircraft maintenance ). I just wanted to get an idea of what needed to be done to make this whole transition happen smoothly. I have an advantage being in my situation to make fabrication and wiring problems go away fairly easy, but others don't. I just wanted to know the specifics before I dropped money and time into something, for not only myself, but for the others planning this work. Again, thank you for the information. I greatly appreciate it.

Maybe this thread is a lost cause because I'm only "maybe the [second] person to do this." f**ked if I know. However, I'm sure others would like to find a thread where people aren't just arguing over shit that doesn't matter. That's where I am right now. I want to find out for myself, but also for others so they don't have to bother with those other moronic threads. No, they aren't necessarily on this site, but they are out there. I understand buying a GTR would probably be easier. However, I have already owned a GTS-4 for nearly four years. I'm not really wanting to sell mine, which I've slaved many hours into making it reliable, for a GTR I know nothing about. There are also people who just can't afford a GTR that might get a GTS-4 and do a swap for budgeting reasons. People in either situation would like input from others who have performed this. I didn't think it was much work, but all I wanted was verification of what I needed, which was clearly spelled out in the original post. The engine, ECU and harness. I thought the tacho's were different, but apparently not, so I've already learned a bit as it is, and I thank you guys for that! GTSboy, I'm not sure why you had to specify that we aren't special here. I agree fully. We are no different than anyone else, and yes, we are late to the Skyline party. I don't understand why our government care about the piddly shit they care about, but they care. But thank you for deciphering necessity and not. Typically, the engines come with hoses from what I've seen, as well as harnesses and ECU's. No, none of the threads I ever clicked on were about GTS-T conversions, only GTS-4. I made sure of that. The arguments were all the same. Again, they may not have been on this site, but other major Skyline/Nissan specific sites. There aren't a lot of GTS-4's, so maybe that's the problem here. I don't know. I've clearly done my research, and I'm not some ignorant peasant asking some bull shit like, "what oil do I use" or something. In fact, I've been a guinea pig for a lot of GTS-4 parts for a lot of the main companies in England (I lived there for four years, which is where I picked this car up). I'm not ignorant of the car in most aspects, but this specific scenario is lacking on most forums. I'm very mechanically inclined, so any fabrication needed, I can do. I'm an aircraft mechanic. I am clearly not some random scrub asking stupid questions.

You realize they only Skylines in the U.S. are just shipped in, right? There are not a lot as it is, and I doubt they are being cut/broke for parts already. The reason for asking what else I need is that I can get the parts I actually need individually. I don't need the fenders. I'm doing something else with my fenders, so I don't need GTR ones. I don't see how that has anything to do with the engine being swapped, but maybe I'm wrong. If there is a reason for GTR fenders, what is it? Do I NEED the GTR subframe to mount the engine? Will the front diff really not fit? I thought everything gearbox to the wheels were pretty much the same, so I don't understand why I'd have problems with the diff. I'm not trying to make the whole front end a GTR, I'm only asking about the engine and what is needed to fit that. Whether I get a front cut or not, I'll still need to know what I need to swap over anyways. This is why I asked what is needed, and the question still stands. Like I said, there aren't any useful posts online that I've found that specify what I need, as most are a bunch of idiots giving opinions about gearboxes, diffs and saying the RB25 NEO is a better swap. I don't care about that stuff. I care about the engine, and what is needed to mount it and get it running in a GTS-4.

So, the problem with front half cut cars is that there are probably none in the U.S. right now. I can, however, get the RB26 here. So, I'm having to go that route until there are actual ways to get these front half cuts.

When you say cut, do you mean to fit intercooler piping? As far as the engine, I do plan on swapping a single turbo to it prior to install, as well as removing the charcoal filter and air conditioning unit (if it's even on it). The fan may be getting removed as well in exchange for slimmer electric fans, but I'm going to do more research on that as the time gets closer. I'd imagine that should clear sufficient space to not have to cut anything other than intercooler piping, or is there something else that requires cutting to fit?

Thanks for the info, I thought I read that the tacho didn't work right between 20 and 26's. I guess I will find out. I am rebuilding the gearbox anyways as I want to keep the gearing in it. I'm going to be getting a GTR rebuild kit and see if it fits, so internals minus the gears themselves will be GTR anyways. Like I said, that's already decided and is being sorted out. All I needed to know is the engine itself, so thank you very much for that information!

Alright, so I've searched around a bit about this topic and haven't found much about it. Usually, people just argue whether gearboxes/diffs will fit and which ones are better or say to get an RB25 NEO. I've already made my decision about those (keeping R32 GTS-4 diffs/rebuilt gearbox) and am on the part about the actual engine, which will be an RB26. So, from what I understand, the engine should drop straight in and, if you have the correct harness/ECU, it shouldn't need wiring done. If I remember correctly, the tachometer will need switched as they are different between the two. Is that correct or no? Also, another MAF if I end up keeping it TT, but the possibility is there of going single turbo before install, so that is tentative. Beyond that, as far as the engine going in, it should just drop in and be good, correct? Obviously, intercooler/piping work will need done as well, but I'll get there when I get there. Like I said, all the posts I've read are people arguing about diffs/gearboxes or saying get a NEO RB25 instead. I got tired of reading those unhelpful posts. If anyone has any other changes that are required for this swap, that will be very helpful! List so far: RB26DETT ECU/harness Tachometer MAF(s)?

The center plate only had the last two rows of threads damaged, but I think if I get a new pivot, the threads will go much further down. When I checked out the Nismo one, it looked about twice as long as the current one, so I might be able to get away with it temporarily until I can dig deeper. I really don't want to pull my transmission if I can avoid it right now.

The fork didn't even actually break, just the bolt did, or rather, the bolt ripped the threads out of whatever it's connected to. I'll probably get a new fork anyways, but whatever it threads to might also be bad as some of the threads were ripped out.

So, I was driving a couple weeks ago and my clutch sorta went out. The pedal dropped to the floor, but I could push it just a little bit further and could still disengage the clutch. I limped it home and noticed that the slave cylinder was sitting at a strange angle. I've never taken one apart, so I didn't realize it wasn't actually broken even though it looked like it was. Well, I ordered a new one, and as I was pulling out the old one, I noticed that the lever the slave cylinder pushes on looked off. It then just came off. Now, the problem I'm having looks to be whatever the lever threads in to. It also looks as though the bolt was sheared off at one point, the people said f**k it, and threw it back in as it looks extraordinarily short. I attached pictures of what the bolt threads on to and the bolt itself (still on the lever) so you can see how short it is. It's obvious this was the problem from the beginning, just need to figure out if that bolt is too short so I can get a new one or not. Thank you for any help! Edit: I had a total derp moment. Still need to know about the bolt length and what exactly it threads to.

The problem HarrisRacing seems to have is that state and federal legality are two different things... But beyond that, and since this topic falls under multiple federal agencies, is that not all of them have to agree (and typically don't, just look at the twenty one year exemption for EPA vs. the twenty five year exemption for NHTSA). If ONE of those federal agencies disagrees with something, it's done. The NHTSA says it either has to conform or be over twenty five years old to be eligible for "exempt" status. This vehicle is neither. The GSA might say it's legal, but the NHTSA doesn't. Government agencies don't work well together, contrary to what you might believe. That's the point I think Matvei is trying to make here. One agency saying it's legal doesn't mean it is *completely* legal.

Hattori and Matvei.

Loving the American hate here...

Jiffo, besides the fact that those diagrams were scanned horribly, it still doesn't show me pins on the steering angle sensor. Again, they are different in the other diagrams I've used from the GTR manual than on my car. Besides the fact that in the diagrams it shows eight pins (mine has 6, which I cannot be for sure, but maybe those were airbag wires or something), I've confirmed two of the wires are switched from the GTR manual to my car. From what I've gathered, the GTS-T and GTS-4 used a slightly different HICAS system than the GTR. This is why I want to acquire one of the other manuals to be sure. Considering the strange readings I've been getting, I think the wiring is different. It's just a way of being redundant and making sure everything is right before I waste more money chasing problems that might not actually exist. Hicas light comes on maybe five minutes after I start driving, which is also when the power steering gets heavy. It's almost the exact same place every day. It's one reason I originally thought the speedometer. The strange thing is I don't remember having this problem when I got it, and the speed has always been wrong. So now I'm leaning towards steering angle sensor, considering I can't enter diagnostic mode, and I'm getting such strange readings. Again, I'm just trying to be redundant and verify before wasting time and money on nonexistent problems.

Did the guy/you not try to turn the screw on the AAC unit to adjust the idle? Maybe when he cleaned it he didn't screw it back in far enough to have it idle correctly. There is a DIY thread on this site that tells you how to do it correctly (as well as adjusting idles correctly). http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/ There's the link, just in case...

Well, right now it's a possible toss-up as to the solution to my problem. I'm getting very strange readings for the steering angle sensor, so I'm sort of leaning towards that considering I'm also unable to enter diagnostic mode (the remedy for which I've heard is VERY likely to be steering angle sensor related). It could also be the speedometer as it's reading incorrectly, but I don't know. I just wanted to see how different the wiring is between the two, because I've heard (and also seen first hand) that the GTS-4 and GTS-T use the same HICAS system, while the GTR had "Super HICAS". I'm just trying to ensure I'm shooting the correct wires before I start ordering more useless parts and wasting my money. I've already ordered a speed sensor only to find out it didn't help at all. Jiffo, I'm not looking at 4WD, I'm looking at HICAS which are two completely different systems. 4WD is the engine power going to all four tires, HICAS is four wheel steering. I know I'm fairly new to the Skyline, but I'm not a complete idiot considering I read wiring diagrams and shoot wires every day for my job (using PDF files, ironically). Right now, I'm thinking it's 75% chance of steering angle sensor and 25% speed inputs being jacked up. I want to make sure it's 100% of one and 0% the other.

Unfortunately, I have that manual already. I need the GTS-4 or GTS-T manual because the wiring in that one is different than my car.

So, I've been chasing a HICAS issue off and on for a few weeks, and I am having no luck. I have an R32 GTS-4, but I'm using a GTR manual for wiring and I don't think they are similar at all. I was wondering if anyone has either a GTS-4 or GTS-T manual for download or that you can send me. I have checked every link on all of the main Skyline websites, and had no luck. Either the links are to a GTR manual (which I already have) or they are dead links from 10 years ago. I also tried to do the self diagnostic, and it doesn't work. I'm leaning towards a steering angle sensor for that issue, and my speedometer for HICAS/power steering getting heavy while driving since it's completely incorrect (it's not in MPH or KPH). But like I said, the wiring isn't the same and I can't accurately shoot the steering angle sensor for voltages to check if it's bad.