Meathead

Motec M800 + Boomslang Plug and Play Have one used M800 for sale with 1mB logging enabled and single wideband enabled. (comes with tuning adaptor cable also) This was fitted by GT Autogarage Brisbane as a piggy back to OEM. Purchased a Plug and play loom from Boomslang USA to run the Motec as stand alone but this is still new and has never been used. I had them add a 12 pole connector for 2 x pressure, 2 x temp, Map and LSU 4.9 wideband so you can plug it all straight in. I removed the Motec (fantastic ecu) due to no dynos where I now live in Japan so using Link G4+ and do my own tuning as logging is all in the same software. All up the M800 with enables cost over A$5000 and the Boomslang P&P US$600. Attached boomslang pinout fyi. Looking for $2600 + shipping (shipping from Japan is cheap and very safe) This can also be used on BNR34 but may have to fit a voltage divider for the Atessa signal. Quite simple for a good tech.

Okada projects/Ignition projects are a massive con!

You should take a drive up to 6boost in Towoomba and get Kyle to make the whole kit.

Looking forward to your impressions !!! should be a absolute beast, do you have a launch date yet? R35 coil packs ...Godzilla make some serious stuff, check there Facebook page.

If that Tomei pump failure was with the spline drive fitted then there lies your answer. They will not tolerate any misalignment and will load the driven gear radially and also fretting/galling on the splines. Nitto wrote a good answer somewhere on here why they will not release a spline drive yet due to reliability issues. You have the stroker crank with full width pump drive I guess, what sort of balancer are you running. I've been running a 1000hp ATi for a long time now, and when I pulled it all down for some checking last year it was all good with minimal wear thanks to ATI, but no limit bouncing here. . However if you like bouncing on the limiter a bit then something will eventually give ...dry sump it and you can bounce of the limiter all day long

Anyone gone down the VR38 to RB26 conversion yet. For basically the cost of 6 new R35 coils and a bit of engineering, swapping your pins around on the ignition harness and bypassing ignitor you would have a much better than stock setup. There a a few kits in japan if you cannot make your own but they are quite expensive but fairly labour intensive. Good for ideas anyway like this one http://blue-force.sakura.ne.jp/35coil-nnet.htm just chrome translate. looks a bit over the top if you ask me with the o-ringed tubes. Supertec on the UK forum do a reasonably priced kit. Which i will get http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/488665-vr38-r35-rb26-coil-conversion-kit.html#post5069737 Godzilla motorsport and AMS still use the standard ones on well over 1500hp. Must be Good!! Coil cover can be refitted.

Hope this helps The genuine stuff BNR34 special but it is rebadged ESSO ATF D 21065. Which is Dexron IID This is made by Mobil (Mobil ATF D 21065) and specified by Getrag for R34GTR gearbox and Toyota V160/1 You can use any off the following, which are all Dexron IID mineral based oil. BP Autrans DII Gulf ATF DXII Texamatic ATF 4921 (Caltex) Motul ATF Dexron IID Fuchs Titan ATF 3000 Mobil 220 Dexron IID PetronasTutella GI/A Dexron IID (Italian) Most of this stuff is much cheaper than re-badged OEM oil, but you should buy it in small bottles as the stuff is hygroscopic.

I used new OEM locks with Ferrea competition plus valves with Tomei titanium retainers and buckets. You could use the old ones but as they are cheap I just fitted new ones.

Me too! however if it were me then I'd go the EFR9180 1.05 EWG which would be perfect for an RB31 for everything except drag racing. My 2 bits haaa

Not 6-Boost or CRG but I went with a Fullrace TS coated manifold and down-pipe for my 33gtr. Very well made and works a treat with the EFR 8374 iwg. Highly recommend these manifolds. They are not cheap but if you want quality this is the one (for me anyway) Had to cut the down pipe in one spot and re tig it for a perfect tension free fit. easy fix. There jig is an R32 which is probably why.

No bro science mate, you need to chill out a bit.

If you run your data through matchbot it will give you a ballpark rpm figure and I am sure there is a good safety factor built in to BW recommended max rpm. If your setup is close to BW max then buy a tacho setup or a bigger turbo in the first instance. Running　２２psi on mine and occasionally overboost to ３０ which is redlining it I guess but I am sure it can handle it. Cannot be bothered spending heaps for a paranoid gauge.

Very interested in a set of the standard black ones for my LMGT1s' Please let me know!

Are you running E85? Good to see this thread back in action!

SAU used to have good moderators that would sort skidmark out fairly quickly. Guarantee if no one bites or replies to his drivel (I know its hard) he will remove himself from this thread. I swapped out 5's on a 2.8 with 9:1 compression to a 8374 iwg with a Fullrace manifold and dump (no other changes) and the difference is night and day. Had this 33gtr for 15 years first with OEM then T517z's (2.8) then 5's now EFR No dyno logs as yet but do not really need one to know if there was an improvement as it is damned obvious Ignore the skidmark!

Mine are the R33 model which is 8 kg front 8 kg rear. Adjustments are on the street -12 clicks front 15 clicks rear Windy roads 5 clicks front 8 clicks rear Circuit 1 click front 5 clicks rear. Maybe a little harsh on the street if the road is lumpy but apart from that its fine, great on the track. Was thinking of the Ohlins DFV which are the same price and very similar but went for these instead. No regrets.

Using these at the moment with the rubber mounts and my impression of them is quite good. Used them at Suzuka many times.

Finally finished fitting an EFR 8374iwg on a 2.8 and must say it is a step up from the 5s in every way. Definitely recommend it.

Been using Tomei A springs with 270/10.8 procams for 10 years around 400awkw 25psi zero problems.

Japanese hioku around 98-100RON no E85 here its banned unfortunately.

Yeah planned on that, have a full race ts manifold which is a million miles away from the sensor.

Rb26 single, was thinking of using the bosses that the old twin turbo supports bolted to. Not about the bosses just about using knock sensors on the exhaust side.

Has anyone ever fitted an extra knock sensor on the exhaust side of the block? There are some good block spots (m8 tapped boss) that I can easily get to on the exhaust side between oil and water outlets to Turbo. Trying to fit an extra one on the inlet side is a headache (engine in) and I cannot see any reason why not on exhaust side. This is for an aftermarket monitor, the OEM sensors are used by my G4+plugin Appreciate peoples thoughts!

Thanks for that, I will keep the canister anyway but use the factory line.

Hi Patrick, Quick question about EFR blow off valve. Did you tee into the vacuum line on the carbon canister or did you run the original line around to the BOV? Cheers