Bjc3000

Hey guys as above post states, has anyone got the auto ecu or auto transmission module they are looking to get rid of / sell? I'm in need of one for an uocoming project and if anyone can help me out would be awesome I need preferably the ecu and the auto controller from the same car. If you have one and in working order I'd be happy to buy Please comment or pm me! Thanks Brendan

Hey guys as above post states, has anyone got the auto ecu or auto transmission module they are looking to get rid of / sell? I'm in need of one for an uocoming project and if anyone can help me out would be awesome I need preferably the ecu and the auto controller from the same car. If you have one and in working order I'd be happy to buy Please comment or pm me! Thanks Brendan

And i still own it to this day

hey mate thanks for the reply. i live in hervey bay qld. dont know whereabouts you are. thanks for the offer. I've tested tps. it's given accurate readings for closed and WOT. like i said i couldn't check output voltages of the maf because i recently moved and all my shit is everywhere. i cleaned the iac and tested solenoid on 12v seemed ok. sometimes the car starts and idles fine. i found that it would go to shit as soon as i started driving. like i said I've got a video where i tapped the airbox just above the afm and the car instantly chugs. im thinking dry solder joints is the problem and as soon as i start driving and there is a bit of a vibe or bump the afm starts throwing out bullshit values to the ecu. i put the car on carrier and sent it up to my tuner to have a look at. getting all vac lines replaced, getting a new afm if i can and getting him to test everything. fuel pressure. vac lines. comp and turbo play. anything he could think of im getting done. im almost 100% positive its the afm but ill have everything tested to be safe. when we did the engine replacement the mech didnt change the injectors over onto the new motor and they subsequently sold with the old block. so I've had to take the boost back to almost stock. also getting new injectore and cranking the boost back up to 19psi. going to drive a lot harder when i get it back. I'll keep you posted. thabks for the responses

sorry for the typos. on my phone and fat fingers.

little update. i decided to test my afm signal readouts this morning. got out the multimeter and started the car. it was idling fine. so i let it warm up. it was holding steady no hunting or anything. pulled off the stock box and found 12v to afm etc. i couldnt get my probes into the connection without damaging it so i left it. when i put my box back on. i was doibg up the clips. one of the clips was being a bit of a pain so i had to give it a bit. wheb it clipped in the car soluttered and shat itself. revs dropped. then went up to a thousand than back down and spluttered again. i didnt think that was right so i took the box off again. tappung yhe edges aroubd the afm gave the same thing it would splutter and die. this isnt right? is it? i mean if i hit a bunp in the road it would be enough to upset it in the same way. maybe the joints are dodgy? I'll look into it further also as another note. i can't disconnect my tps. when warm. if i disconnect the tps. the car dies. shouldn't it continue to idle? as this is the process for adjusting the idle screw? thats pointing me back to the afm being shagged. if i disconnect either of the iac valve solenoids i get no noticable change in rpm which concerns me as well. my car is driving me up the wall. suggestions in the afm? seem faulty to anyone? like i said it was idleing fine up untill i bumped the afm. i think it might have shat itself.

Hey mate thanks for your reply. it has a bosch 040 fuel pump and its never had any issues. the fuel filter was done on the last service less than 6 months ago. my 33 is an auto. it has a stock ecu but it got a toshi chip tune for 16psi and the z32 afm. it originally had a greddy emanage piggybacked but it was causing the car to misfire a lot. we took it out and turned the boost down a bit. its mostly stock again. i can't get any numbers at this stage. i was thinking that a vac leak would increase my rpm at idle? ive searched and everyone points to iac valve or maf. my idle hunts a bit, 100 to 200 rpm.. but it slowly gets lower until it conks it. used to only happen on a hard decel. but it would never actually die. the lowest it would get to 300rpm. if i was paying attention and slowed without braking hard it wouldnt do it. now it happens everytime. and as you see in the video it will idle right then just drop. hunt. catch again. drop. it adds idle when you turn the steering wheel. putting your foot on the brake makes it drop rpm. I've read so many forum posts now. in the hundreds. and nothing I've found quite shows the same issue im having.

Have completely cleaned out the aac and refitted, on first start it revs a bit higher now, but after a minute or two it goes back to doing what it was doing previously. I'm stumped at this point as to what it could be, I'm reading 12.04 volts at the battery. I've done the plugs and the coilpacks are still very new. don't seem to be showing any wear at all. i can't quite put my finger on what might be causing this. It revs fine, it pulls as hard as ever, not missing or popping. just has the dodgiest idle known to man. and only recently. at low speed and when i put my foot on the brake or turn it threatens to die almost every time. it only ever did it once in a blue moon before. So now i've cleaned the AAC are there any tests i can do to determine the cause? pulling plugs from different sensors etc until it cuts that shit out? could dirty fuel cause this to happen?! just for the record. sometimes i'll start it, and it will idle perfectly. no hunting. no nothing just straight up 750 as it always was. doesn't miss a beat. then other times i'll get what i had in the video. erratic, up and down hunting. but now every time i drive it, it tries to choke out splutter and die at low speed. The most frustrating thing ever.

funny you should say that.. just pulled it off now, and it needs a good clean i believe.. I'll post back and give a heads up how this aac clean goes. off to get some carby cleaner. Hopefully this helps out the decel rev problem as well.

Just checked the ECU for fault codes, showing 55 - all clear. this is driving me crazy. going to go pull the AAC valve off and have a look..

Hi all, It's been a while since i've last posted, as all the issues with the car were worked out and it was running great. However. :'( in the last few days my car has basically decided idling wasn't it's thing and is refusing to do so. i have no idea why. Normally it would start, rev to about 1100-1200 rpm, then drop down to around 7-850 and stay there. running reasonably well. it did have issues with hard decel and having the revs drop dangerously low. but it never stalled on me. ever. For any issue with my car, i always check here first, it's been a wealth of knowledge. i've searched the forums. believe me. 8 hours straight yesterday hunting the forums and 3 hours this morning. i've seen a dozen threads here with similar issues, however they mostly tend to be when warm. mine is straight from stone cold. Now, on cold start, the car starts up. revs around 800-900 rpm. hunts a bit. farts around. drops dangerously low to 300rpm. and hunts. it will go anywhere between 300 to 6-750. and even sometimes it will straight up stall out. I have a video i'm currently uploading to youtube i'll post and it shows the issue. Just so i can start clear in my head. The car is modded. Aftermarket Bov (Recirc Bov, not Atmo) FMIC Bigger Turbo Stock airbox Z32AFM 2.5" exhaust Things i've Tried. New Spark Plugs. - Made no Difference Pulled Afm and cleaned with Maf Cleaner - No difference. ( however before this issue i could unplug the afm and it would run. shitty but it would run. Now the car just dies. ) Tested TPS - (Reading 0.45 at idle going up to 5v at WOT) seems ok. - disconnect this and the car stalls out as well. cleaned air filter Things i'm looking at trying - aac valve clean. I don't know if it's the o2 Sensor, i've read that it's only used when out of cold start, as for for the coolant sensor, the issue present straight away at cold. I've got Splitfires running with a new set of plugs. shouldn't be a spark issue. I've heard vac leaks could be a problem, but i was under the impression that it would be sucking in more air and revving higher at idle moreso than chugging and stalling out. any thoughts? anyone with a similar experience. like i said. and please note this. The car, the tune, everything was Running Perfectly for about a year up until about 3 days ago. then all hell broke loose. I wanted to reiterate that as nothing on the car has changed, no new mods, anything. the BOV has been on for that entire period as well. it has stock ecu, but is only running stock boost. it was dyno'd running fine. any ideas !?!? I'll post up the link as soon as it uploads. EDIT: Here is the link to the video https://youtu.be/c4ZRyFF-JTs Cheers Brendan

on Second Thoughts, if it's in good nick and won't leak i'll be all over it. i checked out Bald hills and it is right off the Gympie arterial which i take to come home, I'll be heading back up Saturday so i can pick it up off you then if you don't mind? Complete lifesaver, if i had to deal with fuel smell in the cabin anymore i'd neck myself. Pm me your Details Cad and i'll get back to you.

that sounds awesome mate, how much would express postage cost on top of that? are you able to post? to postcode 4670 I looked at it this morning, fuel had evaporated. started it up and sure as shit fuel is leaking up right beside that plug. need this changed asap. i'm heading to Brisbane Thursday anyway. so if you can't post i'll probably be able to pick it up Thanks heaps mate

Hi guys. My 33 has been smelling really fuelly for a while now inside the car when running, for a while there i thought it was just a rich tune / unburnt fuel etc. but. today it was horrible. so much petrol that i almost passed out while driving. stopped the car went around sniffing for petrol. and the strongest smell was coming from my boot. stripped it out. had a look around then pulled the cover off the the fuel pump housing. and well. there was a pool of fuel sitting around the connectors, and it looks like it has been splashing around while driving. pretty not great. i pushed against one of the connectors to work out where the fuel had been coming from as it is completely dry around the seal ring. and as soon as i touched it, it started hissing and bubbling wildly. i believe this is the culprit. i've got a pic and a video of what i mean. I'm looking for the plastic inner with the connectors etc. (one that isn't a leaky Piece of shit ) and i need it pretty urgently. anyone got one lying around / not using willing to sell and get to me asap? looking for a price range etc. photo attached. can't attach the video it's too big sorry.

yeah thats true gtsboy, although i don't think i quite get on full boost till around 5000 / 5500. 3-4 and i'm just going positive, stupid big laggy turbo haha. but cylinder pressure is a given. i'm hoping that squashes a few things. i've realized that i've got a re-mapped stock ecu, and a mapped aftermarket ecu as well.. i hate my life. The previous owner told me that he got a toshi chip tune to run 18 psi, i just don't understand why it had to be mapped in emanage as well then, if toshi had already tuned it. but i guess i'll find out. it's been running rich since i've owned it. time to get the AFR's looking respectable i think.

took it for a short run today after changing the plugs out, it runs better up until about the 3-4k mark where it stumbles, i believe it's due for some new coils and a decent tune. as a side note, at idle, i pulled the coils off one by one, and each one gave a noticeable rpm drop, so my thinking is it's more of an under load deal now, and it free revs to redline no issues. i'll clean up the MAFs and put new coils in and see how that goes, but i'm positive it needs a good tune.

So i've been around today and picked up some new Spark plugs, Gapped them to 0.8 and did a compression test, compression test looks good, 170-175 across the board, I noticed however that the only spark plug really fouled was cyl # 2, last time i pulled the plugs Cyl #6 was the culprit. must have changed when i change the coil packs around. i'm leaning heavily towards them being the issue now, the miss lightened a little but it's still there. less frequent as well. i did all this in hopes of testing the yellow jackets but as it turns out, they just plain and simply have a different construction and won't fit over the plugs nicely. so i didn't even bother. going to keep going and try to correct this, will post up my findings as i go.

Yeah i'd say so, the tune that the car was running was initially very rich, i don't know why. i would like to remove the misfire before i get it retuned however. that would be the safest option in my opinion Edit: unless of course the tune is why it's misfiring

obviously a fan of the Neo heads! i changed pretty much most of the sensors over, i had to change the throttle body and tps. i'm quite certain the IAC was left as is and the connector fitted perfectly. i'll see how it goes with this misfire. it's pretty depressing not being able drive it like it deserves.

yeah thats a good idea with the coils. will give that a go tomorrow. hope that sorts it out, if not, i've got a worked 25det head, i'll just rip the head off and change it over. although i've heard good things about the neo's. maybe drop in a thicker head gasket to lower the compression. i think thats what a lot of people do anyway.

yeah no Problems with the VCT then, thanks for clarifying that up for me. yeah, i've plugged the s2 loom onto the Neo coil packs. I've got the S2 r33 yellow jackets handy, they went well when i had them on the old engine. any reason why i shouldn't use them bad boys? i havn't actually been boosting really at all, i knew the compression was different due to Neo Head cc i believe? i've been babying it so far, as i don't want to drive it due to the miss. it misses sporadically on idle as well. every now and than. is there a difference between the two looms?

Hey thanks for the fast reply Gts Boy. Yeah there was a few things that i found a little odd about the injector rail myself, i always thought that the neos had topfeed injectors, but as it turns out, the rail from my rb25det swapped over perfectly, the rail was a little different on the neo, (2 fpr) i just removed the vac line and plugged it. surprisingly enough, the connectors are the same. the engine itself never actually came with the coil pack loom, i was lucky enough to use my old loom. i've read places that the very late editions of the r33 came out with a hybrid rb25 det neo, maybe it was some cross over period engine to the 34's. i'll give the yellow jackets a go, i didn't even think of that. cheers. i did get an ecu and loom with the engine, minus the coil pack loom. I looked up against the ecu model numbers, and apparantly it's from a C35 Laurel? damn motor importers. that was my concern with the VCT. as i'm unsure if i've hooked the wires up right. is there anyway to tell? Btw, the turbo runs 18 psi when i can get it to spool up. peaked at 21psi once. had to set my boost controller a bit better. It's had a rich tune since i've had it, but it did pull really hard. Just wanted to get it going strong before it goes in for a tune up

Hi everyone, it's been a while since I've been back. I'm looking for a little insight into my r33 separation pains. basically the story went like so. i bought the 33, it shit itself. within a month. the crank had been sheared and pistons smashed. kind of long winded. basically. i cried a little. skip to now. i ordered an imported motor, my skyline is a 1997 s2, so i ordered a series two engine with low k's, good stuff. or so i thought.. The motor was in fact an rb25det NEO, i really wish i would have known. Anyway i did the swap, there was a few things that needed to be swapped out of the old motor. oil pressure sender, a/c comp mounting bracket. injectors etc. all went well, i had to re-pin the CAS as the NEO wiring is a mirror to the S2 CAS. also the VCT solenoid has a different connector, i re-wired that, but the wiring diagrams i had were quite vague, so atm it's not connected. the car was able to start and run using the old maps in my E-manage ultimate. i figured as much because it's basically the same engine i'm to believe that the Neo head has Different cams? and the VCT functions a little differently? My Cars specs follow (auto) S2 1997 r33 skyline 600cc injectors (sidefeed) Hypergear Atr43G3 Sidemount Turbo Blitz Return Type FMIC Custom Alloy radiator Z32 AFM E-manage Ultimate Piggy back on Stock Ecu with a toshi chip for 18psi (piggyback for auto) The only thing i couldn't save from the old motor was the Yellow Jacket coils as the mounting brackets between the two heads are different. i'm now running on stock coils that came with the motor. (unsure of the condition) I've read a Lot on the forums about misfire issues, RB's and Coilpacks, as my car is running... but like shit. Intermittent misfiring, and misfiring under boost. i originally had bcpr7's gapped at 0.8 and then i swapped them out to bcpr6's gapped at 0.8 as well no change in the misfire. i'm looking at changing the coilpacks out to splitfires, would this be advisable? i've taped the coils and swapped the plugs, the compression test read +/- 6 psi across the board. so good compression. i've put an earth kit on as well and cleaned up all the grounding areas. i've checked and double checked intake piping, looking for leaks, vac leaks etc. Can people give me and opinion? i miss my skyline it's been far too long. also would the r33 ecu be able to handle the vct timing control of the neo head? as in, will it work the same as the rb25det? or will it cause issues. i just want it running on all 6 properly so i can take it in for a good old fashioned tune. any opinions? thanks again.

Got another rb25det being imported, I'm looking at using the head I've had done to throw on a 30e block, heard its a nice setup. And it will be a good learning curve!!

Lol I wish I had of giving it a hiding Kane, at least then I would feel like I deserved this! But I didn't The reason it bent the valves is stated above mate. The keyways that held the timing gear on the crankshaft in place and tight, had flogged out enough that it put the timing out. And put it out enough for the valves to interfere with the pistons. It was just a very unfortunate way for things to go. The keyway would have broken down over time.. A long time. But wasn't noticeable till the straw that broke the camels back I guess, It was probably the reason why it was starting to play up. Retarding the timing over time as the gear flogged out more and more.