Darren W.

cats

Turning fast and not like you could stop by hand??? Not like drive to the rears but definately from the transfer case (with the fuse out of course!!) If in doubt jack it up and check for yourself or pull the front shaft. Of those who have said no drive at all - how well bled and replenished do you keep your "ATESSA" & does anyone know how worn their clutches are at the time?? Alot of variables go into the wear factor of a car over its life (driving style, power, grip, size of tyres, road conditions, age etc....) and lets face it we are talking almost 20 years for the early systems through to the present day.

We did that to a R32 GTR and found at high engine/g.box & transfer case RPM's (ie 4th gear) there was still some drag on the clutches and couldnt stop the front wheels turning. (rear on Dynapak front in the air) Maybe this is where the clutch damage story stems from, as with the front end of the car on the ground it maybe just slipping the clutches hardcore??? Yet the car drove like a 2WD on the road with the fuse pulled??? Has anyone else heard of this??

Rocky

Logan mwy to Ipswich hwy/ Warego hwy turn off- Burgundy R32 2DR "527 JMB". Had SAU sticker on back window above wiper motor. I was in the wife's Dark Green R32 4DR GTS4 with SA plates "MYGTS4".

Do you know if its a 4.3 ratio???

Needed 1 fuel pump- Bosch etc. 2nd hand preferred Must be external with 12mm in and 8mm out. Prefer pick up in S.E QLD.

Was that in defence of roller dyno's?? Re-read my post I said "pack it up". If you wanted a detailed procedure posted you could you could have asked and I would have. Then you would see that you dont need to subject the car to any stress such as you mention. Sorry to all who cant figure out you need "axle stands" under lower control arms and body if needed- there you go! (If you cant work this out as a competent dyno operator and presumably mechanic then best you seek another career!!) If he only has one set of axle stands dont go to his workshop either!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! May not always work as I havent tried every type of 4WD vehicle on the market either. But a method to try if all else fails for any stuck with a 4WD car at a 2WD dyno- just dont be a fool and gas it up to 180Km/h on the first run........ little steps first hey!!!

How about we all stop pissing around with "roller dyno's" and start using "chassis" or "hub" dyno's. Just back it up, pack it up and jack it up- front wheels in the air so even if they do spin no drive!!!! Thats how we do the 4WD drive cars on a 2WD set up. Plenty of benifits with chassis dyno's such as "Dynapak" over cheaper more common roller dyno's. Obviously you put the front end on stands after you jack it up. Further more for added safety you can remove the front wheels to eliminate vibrations from the tyres and wheels.

Very good response to my computer question. Is there any draw backs to this kind of modification? Does the computer handle all that an aftermarket 1 does or is it just a "band aid" fix to getting an aftermarket ECU? Will pay Jaycar a visit. As for intended use, the car is semi daily driver and cruiser. Would like to race around the streets(I mean cruise) and occasional 1/4 runs or track days at Mallala with other cars I know of that have similar power output. The car is an R32 GTS4 4Door with a manual. I know that plenty more can be had from the motor without opening it up for internal mods but with short life span. In standard form I still like to participate in the activities I mentioned, but I have all the joy of a standard off the showroom floor car that is 100% reliable! Ultimately I want the same reliability with whatever extra power I can have without compromising that or having the need to do internal mods. Maybe the reality is that 10-30kw extra is it without reliability compromise? Who knows I dont! just hoping someone does. I'm sure Nissan built these with only modest use of thier potential to ensure longevity and reliability. I accept that it cant ever be 100% the same reliability due to extra streeses and heat loadings- but there must be some acceptable level of modifiction that would be deemed "SAFE" and good for say 10000k's a year without needing to keep the car stanard to be able to drive that many k's and have some fun without the worry of engine failure. Many thanks again. Darren W.

Confused! Too many instant experts! Too little knowledge! Does anyone know REALISTICLY what is the "SAFE" potential power output from the late model RB20 turbo with all the usual bolt on bits? Not seeking maximum stress point B4 breakage- just good state of tune with all the factory reliability + extra kilowats! Would like 230-250 RWKW. Have been told this can be done no worries but with 10 or so different bolt on combo's! What bits should I be looking for if possible at all? Also seeking confirmation on whether or not the R32 factory computer is programmable- and how much if so? Have heard of fitting R32 computers to R33 cars, could this be for adjustability? If so who knows where to get the software to read the programme so it can be adjusted and what the parameters are for adjustment? More than happy to pay for good results by those who know what to do!!!! Many thanks for any feedback! :nowigetit :nowigetit :nowigetit Confused in Adelaide S.A.! Lost in Skyline territory! Darren W. P.S. please reply if you know for a fact only-not guessing or hearsay! I have the knowledge to guess myself! :goddam: