MANWHOR3

Just get new plates. Not sure about HKS. but for OS Giken, full rebuild kit i.e. plates, flywheel, pressure plate, and other stuff for 1200. Not bad considering they're worth about 3k new. Depending on your driving/power etc. If you have enough power to blow the gtr32 box, a twin plate is probably not a bad idea.

Falken ziex are shit tyres. To try and imagine what they're like in the wet, imagine pooring engine oil and dishwashing liquid onto a wet concrete slab, and driving on it with a slick. The st115 are prettty good tyres. 1150 is pretty decent for 18s, which are never cheap.

Defeats the purpose of having a 34 cooler. the 33 duct is shorter(33IC is shorter), therfore you won't have air flowing trhough the whole cooler. These ducts really are a gem.

Trex, you seem to know quiet a bit about oils. May i ask what you do for a living? Also, what do you think of motul 8100 5w40? does it contain those good group iv/v oils? what about esters? good additives? You also seem to like Delvac 1 - is this fully synthetic? Thanks heaps mate.

It was not made to fit it. Simple as that. Gtrs have a fmic yes. They actually cut out a hole next to the battery tray in exactly the same spot as you have to. But they have a totally different front bar, with room for it. Also, the bonnet latch and everything is different. Different front bar support. Of course the car will require modes to fit it. If you're not confident in doin git, then get a workshop to do it. PM a guy called Mr G on the these forums. He does good work for cheap. He has installed many FMIC kits. 1-2 hours is a bit of an exageration. It would take me probably the good part of a day to do it, but that's because i'm picky.

An r34 smic is plenty for a stock r33 turbo. But once again, it requires substantial mods to fit in an r32. The piping faces the wrong way, and I beleive the brackets also don't line up. The resale value on your car won't really go down by chopping the bar, because stock bars are worth nothing. I've seen them go for $20 on the forumns.

Mate, bolt in kits, as mentioned above, are not just plug and play. No car mod is every that simple. Even installing a headunit often requires modification of the headunit bracket. From the sounds of things, you don't have much experience with cars. I would suggest that you take it to a work shop and get them to install it. You are astounded by the fact that "even with the type M" kit you had to hack it up. Why would the type M kit give more space to a fmic? The 32 gtst was not designed to fit a fmic. Of course it will require modification. What it comes down to is that any mod will not be simple. I recently installed a new dump/front pipe. The bracket needed to be modified. Several things didn't line up, some flanges needed grinding etc. Either take it to a shop, or have a decent attempt at it expecting to do some serious modding. E.g. you were having problmes with a few measly brackets to hold wires? just remove the bracket and cable tie the wires? The intercooler that you are trying to install is not big at all. It has been fitted many times on r32s.

jetspeed sell copies

I've got one of those. came with my car.

Straight bolt up. No mods required. Make sure you have the r34 duct too. To install the duct, the front bar has to come off. This requires a trim to get the bar back on. You'll know what I mean. No noticeable increase in power.

Yeah, the Batmbl pipe also costs 4 times as much as this. It's not 4 times better. I have ran one of these before and it was quiet noticeably better. IMO, the the size of the pipe will not really be MUCH of a restriction at the pwoer level the stock turbo can handle.

coverd many timmes. But, one of those 400$ gtek fmic kits in the group buy section. jaycar iebc - 130 including handcontroller. finish off your exhaust - justjap/batmbl powerfc + Tune

YES! I've been trying to learn to do that on every shift, but I never can. It's still clicky most of the time. When the box is warm, and if it is at the perfect rpm, it feels like I coulda pushed it in by tapping it with my pinky finger. If only I was shift master and could do it all the time.

it's hard to picture. But imagine you're putting someone in a headlock. how you put their hear in your elbow. And you grab your hand with your other hand. I put my arm through the spoiler and applied force up. It'll feel like it's not moving, then pop, it'll come up.

You can do it, you have to open the rear cover of the headunint and solder onto the plug socket. trust me mate, not worth the trouble. If it's not worth buying the wiring plug, then it's not worth installing it like that. It'll be a shit job. difficult. probably fail too.

I would stick with single turbo on an rb20. twin would be more appropriate on an rb25.

the rb20 has enough trouble pushing 1 of it's own turbos let alone 6. Anything bigger than a 2510/2530 and the rb20 sucks starts becoming quite low in response. Especially in the low rpm range. people have done 2 stock rb20 turbos on an rb20 and it was laggy as hell. 6 - you have to be dreaming.

I woud say it is your tyres. ask a friendly sau member if maybe you coudld try out their set of wheels and you'll know. trust me, tyres are the link between your car and the road. Suspensions etc blah blah can only do so much if you have old/dried or cheap tyres. My car does that all the time too. In the dry too. But only because i purposely put my foot to the floor

This is not true. Points are 'carried over' from the green Ps to silver licence. I'll explain: You have 7 points on green Ps. She copped her first 3 pointer. She now has 4. The difference between Green Ps and Full licence is 5 points. So 5 points gets added onto the licence when you get your full licence. she now has 9. Minus the 6 points only leaves 3 points. PS: she's very lucky that her mum copped one for her. Not many mums out there would. PPS: The reason why I used inverted commas, is because you don't officially have points to be taken away on Green Ps. As said above, you get points when you do an offence. That is just a technical blah blah stupid way to look at it. Reminds me of what my teacher said in high school - the HSC is an exercise at giving marks. Regardless, give or take away, the outcome is the same. Best of luck.

Every SAU person follows in saying that a Jim berry clutch is the shiznit. Personally, I haev never used one. My twin plate isn't hard to use at all. Good grip, nice and durable.

how did you guys install the 34 gtr pumps? did you have to mod your bracket?

Agreed with what 97gtst and Razor have said. I totally do not understand why anyone would even contemplate putting a non sealed b82rz into a car boot. I personally try and keep my car as imacculate as possible. I'd hate to have acid powder all over the boot eating the paint and my hands and everything else. Fellars, a mainenance free battery IS NOT a sealed battery. Do it right the first time, it'll cost more at first, but it'll save you spending more later getting the shelf cleaned and resprayed ($$$$). I was helping a friend with his car on the weekend. I opened the battery panel, and there was acid all over the place. Someone had just bunged in a century standard battery. There was acid everywhere. I refused to touch it. He didn't seem to care that his car looked like shit. I just don't get it. oh well...

Thank you so much chris. You're very knowlegeable and very helpful. I will bdefinitely be getting any future alarms from you.

I reckon it depends on whether you can do the work yourself. See, I thought about it this way: highflow cat - 250 airfilter - 100 intercooler - 1000 front/dump - 400 (batmbl) powerfc - 1k tune - 600 fuel pressure reg - 120 injectors - 800 turbo - 1950 for a highflow. this adds up to about $6200 provided that you can do all the work yourself. plus if you want a manual conversion, that's another 2k on top of that, so it's 8200. On the other hand, i've seen gtr front cuts go for less than that. Assuming that you can get a good condition motor, it won't need a rebuild. should handle 300+ rwkw easy. I hear you say the motor will be shit and blow up. well, a stock rb25 is imited to about 250 rwkw on the stock motor. so if you want more, you'll need a rebuild anyway. So I figure why not just drop in an rb26 and rebuild that and go for more power.

Can you explain something to me? The previous alarm installer just soldered a wire onto the actual switch on the driver's door. But as I said above, the passenger's door is on a separate circuit. So just to confirm, doing this red wire will have it hooked up to both sensors? Cheers