MANWHOR3

Hi guys, Can someone please help me? Basically, from what I understand, the door sensors on the r33 are on different circuits. i.e. when the driver's door is opened and the key is in the ignition, there is a chime noise. But, when the passenger door is opened, there is no chime noise. If i'm hooking up an alarm, how can I get it such that if either door is opened, the alarm will be triggered? i.e. where can I tap into a wire? The reason I ask is because my alarm installer did a dodgy job.

bump

nah, bit more than that. I don't know what they look like, are they the mesh ones? If so then 600

That is a masterpiece. Seriously. I wouldn't even be able to draw the number plate.

Come on guys, someone take them already

adding a resonoator will make it quieter yes, but imagine it like this: On one end, you ahve ultimate silence with the stock catback. very restrictive. On the other end, you have a bit noisey. Very free flowing. You pick where abouts in the scale of things you want to be. Adding a resonator will cost you between 150-200$ for a decent one and decent workmanship. It'll be quieter all around, sound less tough, and hav less power.

I don't understand what people's obsession with droning is. It's not droning, it's just exhaust noise! Basically, if you want a loud exhaust, it'll sound loud. Of course it will make noise if you put on a more free flowing one. free flow = noise. simple as that. People go, oh, it's drones when driving. Well, that's just noise, which was once silenced by the power robbing mufflers. If you don't want to hear anything, put the stock one back on.

I wouldkn't use exhaust sealer. It just makes it really nasty to take off. Basically, what 97 gtst said is correct. When installing my exhaust, I found that some of the flanges had the pipe sticking out by a couple mm. That is, when they welded it, they left the bit of pipe sticking through the flange. I just hit that with the grinder, and it sat flush. If you look at the gasket, it has a sticky goo substance between it, which gets melted and serves the purpose of the sealer anyway. phat is correct. There is no such thing as a paper exhuast gasket I didn't need to overtorque. I don't even have a torque wrench. I just grabbed down on the 14 mm and did it up.

sold in 6 minutes. hahaha I was just waiting for my pay cheque

It also makes plugs about 10 times easier to change. If you run the stock coilpacks, the crossover pipe must be removed first. An external coilpack allows you to just run coilpack leads to the sparkies. Furthermore, nissan specify that coilpacks only last about 60000ks. Most cars come with rooted coilpacks that cause misfires. The options are 6 new coilpacks from nissan at $250 each or a set of spitfires for 650 from nengun. the falcon coilpack units can be had much more cheaply. Mounting it is easy. and wiring it up should be easy. I've seen a thread on here and also on skylines downunder showing the conversion. I believe it was called wasted spark or something. I drive a falcon AU, I've never really thought about using the coilpack from that though. Maybe i'll give it a go when my coilpacks die.

Yes, I am on casual, but I was just demonstrating that 12-14 an hour is really low. I've been working 32-35 hours a week during the holidays and bringing in 5-600 a week. Not bad for a week of uneducated/unqualified work. I do however understand what you're saying about sacrificing pay to break into a person's desired work area. I'm currently studying law at uni atm and this would be one of those such areas. They know that students like me would kill to break into the law force and they take advantage of this and pay low wages. However, I must also say that I disagree with you regarding 12-14 an hour for being a secretary/office bitch. What exactly woudl be the point of doing this? once again, just like working at frnaklins, this is a dead end job. It won't let you walk up the corporate ladder. So why be a secretary/office s**t for that when I can just work at fraknlins on casual and work whenever I like?

No worries mate. Someone just buy them. They've been sitting on my desk since christmas. You know you want them.... hehehe

Gimme a break mate, I'm studying at uni and working at franklins parttime. I get $18.37 an hour. There is no way that i'd work in an office doing shitty work for 12-14 an hour when I do the same shitty work for frankies at $18.37 an hour.

I dont' know how to link images, but i uploaded it to the gallery here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost.../20514/size/big

Item: Aftermarket Pedal set to suite a manual car. Location: Sydney NSW Item Condition: Brand Spanking new. Reason for Selling: Unwanted gift (I already have nice pedals). Price and Payment Conditions: $30 ono Extra Info: The pedals look really nice and will be a nice addition to your car. Contact Details: PM

I found the ebay ad a bit ambiguous. They said they use a combinaton of leather and pvc. Funky, would you be able to confirm with them that the actual cover itself is actual leather, not pleather. Also, where do they use the pvc? is it just pvc piping? Cheers

Advantages: protects from sun, rain, dust etc. Disadvanages: can scratch the car if you have dirt under the cover. Best car cover available in retail stores is the kenco tyvec carcover. They retail for 160 for the large size for skyline.

I pretty much agree regarding changing the cooler for the stock turbo. The stock turbo doesn't really like being over 10psi for very long. At this boost, the stock intercooler is OK. That is, it's not great, but it's not too restrictive. I measured a 1.5 psi drop. Basically, what he's saying is that some people just change the exhaust cooler, etc and stop there. It's not really worth it, like you spend 1k on intercooler. At that boost, it might only give you a few extra kw, like what's 10 kw? When you get to a/m turbos and run 1.3 bar or something, that's when the stock cooler would be terrible.

Hmmm... That's really scary....runs off to check key for cracks now. phew... anyways, You may be able to remove the key. Try and get a few straightened paper clips and try and grab one of the edges of the key. I don't know if this is possible or not, but it might be owrth a try. If not, then just remove the back seats, the take out the metal plate. This will allow you access to the boot. If you have a kid, they'll come in handy. Push them through the little hole and get them to flick the switch so you can open the boot via the lever. Removing the lock barrel is easy. then you can take it to the locksmith... PS: i've heard of broken locks and stuff like that so many times on sau, that I reckon it's pretty important to hvae the lever working. When you get it opening again, flick the switch asap.

Hahaha, yeah, that's the pickle i'm in. Come on guys with leather. Jerry, 2GUUP?

I'll be watching this space very closely

Hi everyone, I was wondering what is the best way to clean and protect leather seats so that they'll last a long time without cracking. I've searched around on google so much, but everything contradicts each other. e.g. some say don't use conditioner because it causes the leather to build up and get cloged with oil, and this causes it to be shiny and crack. Others say it is lack of oil that causes it to crack. some say the meguirs leather cleaner/conditioner is good, others say it locks in the dirt that is on the seat. Some sites say it can be cleaned with just soapy water. some other say windex (this stuff is nasty as), wax and grease remover, turps, sandpaper, tooth brush.... etc. Does anyone who either has leather seats, or is a trimmer have a tried and tested way of first cleaning, and then protecting the seats?

installing them low down near the kick panel defeats the purpose of havng tweaters.