MANWHOR3

ok, i'm sorry to say, but the reason why the link on the main post has been removed, is because i'm no longer able to host it. I had it hosted for about a month, then bandwidth charges became crazy because i was hosting about 6 different manuals off my computer and uploaded about 600megs - 1 gig a day. My optus got capped in like 2 weeks. sorry fellars, until I find another place to host it.

rear interior means rear side pieces (i'm half stoned and pissed so can't remember), Just undo the screws behind the seatbelt. Pop that little seatbelt square thingy. Then, the plastic side piece is just clipped on. Just pull it. But be careful not to break clips. No biggy if you do, i always break at least 2 or 3. Do for both sides. Next would be the parcel shelf?? it's just hooked in on both sides, just push the sides down, then pull it out. That's it for interior. Tthe part i was describing above was just like imagine if you sit in the back seat, and that big plastic piece next to you.

As stated, i'm looking for r33 gtst stock rims. Sydney only as shipping is too exxy. Two options: 1. I want just rims only good/bad condition. Will not pay anything for shithouse bald crap tyres on it. 2. If they have tyres, they must be good and actually driveable. e.g. 10% tread 10 year old tyres would fall into the first category.

97r33gtst-typeM Wow, how lucky is that how we're on the forumns at the same time. I guess it's pretty addictive. You know what, like you said, you can't go wrong for that price. I'd like to get a set or possibly two today. I was hoping that maybe i could come see it, then i'll drive us down to the supplier, if it is at all possible. I'm dying for a new set of globes. Yellow is so yuck, and not bright at all. I've sent this to you by pm too.

I'm interested in a set. Can you give me a discount if i buy a set of HB and LB? Also, you got any pics mate? Chris

all i have to say, is this is completely ****ed. it is the old people who just don't understand. Check even our general discussion section. People agreeing with the curfue. All i have to say, is that with this curfew, that means that we will not be able to go out between 10pm-6am. What happens if we drove our car to city? Either sleep in it until 6, or take a taxi. Then get a taxi back the next day to collect car? Curfew, unlike ****ing john howard who is so ****ing ugly, that only his mumma would love him, i have a gf. Does that mean that i can not drive a friend to a place because my gf is with me? If this ever gets enforced, i would definitely be involved in the bridge protest. Every under 21 should ****ing park their cars on all the major roads in sydney and shut the city down. That'd get their attention immediately. Something similar happend. In czecheslovakia, they were under a totalitarian regime. The people blocked off all the roads, city came to a stop. Imagine if this happened, if the harbour bridge, tunnel, m2, all the main roads, pennant hills road, anzac bridge..... ****ing shut it down until 6 am. That's when it starts to get busy. Plus all these extra cars at that time, will cause a traffic jam once they start moving.

Performance Exactly right about the weight. People always say straight away, the r33 is soooooo heavy. Seriously, get over it. the diff is minimal. Furthermore, the r33 engine is better. It puts out more torque in standard form, and more power when the electronic limit is removed. I've owned an r32 gtr, and i'd say the attesa is a POS unless if you get the v spec one. It is seirously so slow, that it might as well be a rwd, because by the time the front wheels get power, they don't need it anymore. Looks Comparing a perfect condition r32 to an r33. The r33 looks so much better. The shape is so much more modern. r32s are so ugly, and their age is showing up in the design. They can be compared to the boxy supras (the old ones). Now, considering that most r32s will be many years older than an r33, unless if you're lucky, it could be very stuffed. Interior in the r32 is so out of date. Forget these cheap r32s, go for an r33 gtr if you have the money. If you don't, go for an r33 gtst.

08elf I agree that the people may not have been very nice. Sure, they should not have honked. But i bet that you were not very nice when you approached them either. I would have simply just never approached them. Like it has been said above, are you trying to prove that you're tough to your mum? i hope your mum told you off after you did that, or else, the saying would be like father(mother) like son. I'd say that it's your fault for aggrevating the situation. You are also a *****. "Oh, i can't fight two people. Lets be a pansy and get 10 people." If anyone has a short temper, it's you. "Oh, someone beeped me, i'm gonna call in my gang and bash them". Furthermore, "since i didn't get to bash them, i wanted to get there number plate. Lets go find there house and smash it and burn there car". Ok, you might have had a bad day, that's granted. Can you go kill someone because you had a bad day? Stop trying to justify yourself. YOU'RE WRONG. Learn from your mistake, and you'll become a better person. Patience is a virtue.

the going rate for stock gtst rims seems to be 150 for cheap ones and 200 for good ones. i'm interested in em but i'm in sydney. Still got em? what's the condish?

i'm willing to offer slightly higher than 150, say possible 170, but the problem is i'm in sydney.

this has been covered about a hundred times before. Search for it. Compared to r33s where the battery is in the boot, and therefore must be sealed to prevent leakage, you can put whatever you want into the r32.

I have searched for previous threads, but have not found an answer to this quesiton. I know tha everyone has different views about copper/platinum/iridium. Personally, i believe in using coppers, and changing them frequenty. My question is to do with the gapping. Stock gapping is 1.1mm. yet, when running stock boost, i tend to get misfire. Plugs have not been changed ever since i've got the car (probably 15000 ks). Should I get plugs gapped at 1.1mm? (car is running stock boost, just zorst and air filter). i've noticed that some of you guys run 0.8 or 0.7. is this only if you run more boost? like would it be beneficial to run 0.8 mm even at stock boost? Is regapping plugs bad? i've got a feeler gauge and i was wondering if it is ok to just regap them and put them back in after a clean? or should I just buy new ones?

i'm really interested in your ideas mate, as nitrous kits seem very expensive, and from your equations, this seems to do the job. Just need to work out a method of injecting it, and it should be good. Home made nos kit. Plus, i like the idea of how your fuel is liquid. Much safer and also gives the option of injection, instead of vapourising the air intake. Another thing to look at would be the nos brand fuel additive to see what they have in it. Because if it's the same, it might be safe to just add it straight t o the fuel. so in no time, we may have a nos system costing $15 a litre, which should last a reasonable time. That is compared to nos, costing $1 a sec for a 100 hp unit. Oh, another thing to keep in mind, i've known a few people with the wet nos systems. Actaully, 2rismo knows as well, he pulled an 11 sec pass with wet nos system. You have to tune your car to the nos. That means that when we are using it, say if we press the button to inject it, it will run nice (provided it works). But then when we choose not to, it will be out of tune. (poor performance). Therefore, adding to fuel will be alright, since it will always be using, not like pressing a button to inject. But then most likely, it will not be as strong, as you don't want it to be running high levels of the stuff all the time, or you're blow you're turbo due to the extra heat out the exhaust. 2rismo says this too. You must cool down after doing a pass with nos. So there seems to be a bit of a tradeoff. hmmm. big power, then crap performance when off the fuel, or mild performance always. just a few ideas mate.

I saw your post, and your idea is definitely very pleasible, provided the system is able to take it. Oh, and if you mix it, you'll need to look at the relative weights, and if they their degree of solubility. Otherwise one might sit on top of the other. testing I'm not giving anyone any ideas here. But, this is how the guy tested the SYB. he hired a rental car for a day. like a new commodore or something with variable valve timing. Then the effect of your idea will kick in much quicker. Not like how with our engines we have to reset ecu, then dyno tune. I'd say, if you are going to test, you'll probably be best to do a pwoer test across the range. Look at the shape of the curve as well. Then add a mild amount to the fuel tank, and try. may require tuning. This will show if there is any perfomance increase. In regards to intake injection, you can always try it too. Remeber about safety though. Also, how will you volatise it? i imagine it will be injected behind the filter too? In regards to in the long run about oil, and filters, I think we need more research and if anyone else has any experience about this.

yep, engine, and a few other things only. 400 pages. It's not as comprehensive aas the 32 gtr manual, but it's useful for certain specifications that the r32 doesn't cover. The file is huge. I will attempt to upload it at work so everyone can have highspeed dl. Please be patient. hopefully, it will be up by monday. We have to thank some bloke in the UK for scanning in all 400 pages of it. hehehe. luckily I didn't have to do that. :devfu:

I am aware of the dangers involved, but i feel that if used properly, it can be safe. The manual method used in testing is only temporary, and if succesful, he will be looking into making an electronically controlled system. The amazing thing is, there has been no misfiring or detonation or any other problems. the way it has been used, is basically a very mild spray. Not just crazily pumping the intake full of the stuff. Using the pressure regulator, initially, he just tried opening it a bit, then a bit more, then a bit more marking how far it was turned. I believe the next step would be to use an electronic regulator connected to the current setup. The method of attaching to the can may have to be looked into, or possibly even compressing it into another more permanent can. The connector used was similar to those used in gas lanterns. It just clamps onto the feet around the top. It does not leak either. So far, it is looking to cost around $100 to make the electronic regulator. If this works out, it should spray when a button is pressed, and then the can can be kept up front, out of the cabin making it safer. hopefully this will work, and it does seem to generate quite a signigicant amount of power, without any visible side effects. The motor he is using has travelled 180000kms. there are no problems, however it will prob be on its way out soon, and he has plans for an rb30 rebuild, so he's not too fuss about destroying it. But everything is looking good at this stage, for a homemade NOS kit for around $150

What we have done is testing this ourselves, at our own risk. Please do not try this yourselves anyone because we have not fully tested the effect of the substance. if we damage the car, that is fine, as we have already assessed the risk of this. If anyone does try it and hurts themselves/others or their car, don't blame us.

This all started out as a bit of a joke with a mate who owns an r33 gtst auto. He had just brought a can of start ya bastard back from starting his boat motor, and after reading the can, we noticed the contents. Upon looking at the contents, he came to the conclussion that it gives a nice increase iin power, which is perfectly safe. That is, when used according to a few guidlines: Due to the nature of the substance, exhaust temperatures increased greatly, and therefore should only be used for a short period, such as during a run. Afterwards, the engine must be cooled for a short while. no different to the way you use NOS. Using an exhaust temperature probe, temps returned back to normal within a matter of seconds (approx 5 secs). The method used in testing was to use a regulator valve connected to the top of the can. A hose was connected to the valve and ran through the firewall and into the air intake. Therefore it is controlled from inside the car. The power increase has been confirmed because while accelerating at max in third gear, as soon as the valve is switched on, the wheels start to spin. As his car is auto, the 1/4 times are pretty consistent, and we have yet to have detirmined the difference on the strip. the main power in the product comes from ether (higher flammability and octane energy content than fuel). another reason which led him to believe that it is safe, is the fact that it is actually supposed to be used in cars. We are going to test this further, but have gone through more than 5 cans without any adverse effect. For around $20 a can plus $50 for the regulator (it was just lying around), this seems to be a cheap performance boost to improve 1/4 mile times. Can anyone please comment if they've ever tried it, or know of anything wrong with this setup. That is, other than a fire starting outside the car, because he is really careful to only fire it up when the car is sucking. BTW, car is running stock intercooler, stock turbine @ 14 psi.

what i've found from experience is several factors: atmo bov failing - it might have been alright before, but as it gets older, it may be leaking weak fuel pump and almost empty tank - just before my fuel pump died, it seemed to have trouble sucking enough fuel when the tank is empty (very little downpressure)

As the title says, i have copies of the r32gtr and r33gtst manuals. The r33 manual also covers engines such as rb20 and rb25. The r33 manual is 150 megs btw, so it ain't small

I own a 97 gts-t type m as well as a 95 tt soarer. If you visit the site www.performancedirect.com.au you'll notice the 0-100 and 1/4 mile time of the soarer, as well as the skylines. The skyline is definitely faster stock(just exhaust, cold air, 17 wheels...coilovers) if you drag the soarer (same mods) at both 0-100 as well as 1/4 mile. The thing is with soarers, that people look at the peak power output and forget how much weight these things have on them. my skyline on the weigh bridge was a 1300 flat. I account for this with the exhaust and the avs wheels reducing a bit of weight. The soarer on the weigh bridge was around 1600 kg. keep in mind that these are both 2.5 L 6s. the main difference in power results from the different turbo setup. (twin turbo). With a larger turbo, both are able to put out fairly huge power, and in the end, the skyline will be faster because it's 300 kg lighter.

That r33 is really ugly